bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Ordering the MUD Pod today plus a few Carling CII switches, not looking forward to that wiring! There is such little space in the dash now its unreal lol.
Plan is to move the LR fog switch to the pod then use that to daisy chain side light, live & earth to power the switches and gauges. Should be good enough.
Also got to move the bumper spot wiring from below the gauge binnicle to the pod. Which also means moving the relay from the same spot to my under cubby fuse box. Which is also fast running out of space! Shant be too easy!
Then I'll have Bumper spots, roof bars, beacons & rear fog all wired in properly. Ill probably run most wiring for the rear bar to save time in the future.
Oil temp & EGT gauges will go in later as they arnt cheap being Stack!
Plan is to move the LR fog switch to the pod then use that to daisy chain side light, live & earth to power the switches and gauges. Should be good enough.
Also got to move the bumper spot wiring from below the gauge binnicle to the pod. Which also means moving the relay from the same spot to my under cubby fuse box. Which is also fast running out of space! Shant be too easy!
Then I'll have Bumper spots, roof bars, beacons & rear fog all wired in properly. Ill probably run most wiring for the rear bar to save time in the future.
Oil temp & EGT gauges will go in later as they arnt cheap being Stack!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
The roof console arrived today but was not correct, the back was cut off for a truck cab.
I went to see what it looked like, wasnt a fan really. Felt cheap, creaky and the storage bin barely opened, i could maybe get some sunglasses some spare fuses in there but thats it.
Imo not worth it at all.
I went to see what it looked like, wasnt a fan really. Felt cheap, creaky and the storage bin barely opened, i could maybe get some sunglasses some spare fuses in there but thats it.
Imo not worth it at all.
Moulded plastic?
I saw a great one in a 90 in Belgium, the guy was a boat builder and had done a custom roof console out of fibreglass, housed the CB interior lighting and map lights, all his extra switch gear for aux lighting and he also had heater vents in it that came up the B pillar from a Webasto AirTop, super nice installation, but then again, the whole thing was a work of art and had a lot of marine grade fixings and fittings on it.
Hows the snorkel build coming?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
I may have gotten a little overzealous in the snow today 
You can here it blow
Blew a CV joint doing donuts like a chav Was really fun while it lasted!
Proper blown managed to fix it today as I need my landy on the road tomorrow morning, though fitted a non-ABS CV joint. Had to pull the fuse so no ABS/TC till I change it to the right type. Luckily a mate has a load of ABS CVs so hes guna drop one round next week and swap, as he hasnt got ABS.
Got me thinking about fitting D2 axles now, bigger CVs for a start then maybe some Ashcroft CVs & shafts bout £1k in upgrades but shouldnt break or should at least last longer lol
You can here it blow
Blew a CV joint doing donuts like a chav
Was really fun while it lasted!Proper blown
managed to fix it today as I need my landy on the road tomorrow morning, though fitted a non-ABS CV joint. Had to pull the fuse so no ABS/TC till I change it to the right type. Luckily a mate has a load of ABS CVs so hes guna drop one round next week and swap, as he hasnt got ABS.Got me thinking about fitting D2 axles now, bigger CVs for a start then maybe some Ashcroft CVs & shafts bout £1k in upgrades but shouldnt break or should at least last longer lol
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Thats familiar, not got any spare CV joints at the mo and put my last rear shaft in about 3 months ago.
I have also been thinking about D2 axles for my D1, they seem to be stronger as standard and I think if they are refurbished prior to fitting with new ball joints and wheel bearings, they should last a good while.
Be a bit of a pain for you though won't it with the having the diffs done recently and then needing them done again for the D2 axles or is there commonality in parts?
I have also been thinking about D2 axles for my D1, they seem to be stronger as standard and I think if they are refurbished prior to fitting with new ball joints and wheel bearings, they should last a good while.
Be a bit of a pain for you though won't it with the having the diffs done recently and then needing them done again for the D2 axles or is there commonality in parts?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Only had the rear diff done and would only change axles if my rear diff will fit, not worth it otherwise. Afaik the diffs are compatible.
Just got to work out if everything else is! Only around £200 or so for a pair, I'd have them shot blasted and coated nicely with Buzzweld products then fit them as and when.
Also means should I decide I can fit the larger and much stronger Ashcroft shafts and CVs.
Just got to work out if everything else is! Only around £200 or so for a pair, I'd have them shot blasted and coated nicely with Buzzweld products then fit them as and when.
Also means should I decide I can fit the larger and much stronger Ashcroft shafts and CVs.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Managed to get through the snow, rain, wind and about 9 crashes I saw between me and the fellas welding up my snorkel but it is getting there!! Welding is done, just got to spend a few hours grinding back the welds, then sanding flush, good clean and 3 coats of Buzzweld CIO should give it a nice matte finish and blend it in more.
While building the snorkel we realised that it would be a right pain to fit and remove, also very hard to refit the chequer plate. So decided to leave the bottom section and top section in two parts not welded together. More functional but not as pretty, will use silicone to seal in place.
Bolting to the cage is a little rudimentary just some 48mm U Bolts, 3mm tabs welded on the snorkel should keep it in place.
Full 3.5" ID snorkel, running to a 90mm intake hose direct to the airbox. Couldn't get better air flow if I tried hahaha. Got to say I love it! I'll get some more pics up when i've done more.
While building the snorkel we realised that it would be a right pain to fit and remove, also very hard to refit the chequer plate. So decided to leave the bottom section and top section in two parts not welded together. More functional but not as pretty, will use silicone to seal in place.
Bolting to the cage is a little rudimentary just some 48mm U Bolts, 3mm tabs welded on the snorkel should keep it in place.
Full 3.5" ID snorkel, running to a 90mm intake hose direct to the airbox. Couldn't get better air flow if I tried hahaha. Got to say I love it! I'll get some more pics up when i've done more.
Attachments
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Spent the day grinding back the welds, then sanding it back, getting it flush as I could.
Test fit, looks quite good!
First coat of Buzzweld CIO, had *just* enough left to give one thin coat on both sections. Got more en route, I did contemplate using some high build primer to fill in and small nicks but considering its going to be hit by branches a lot I decided against it.
The black certainly helps it blend in better!
Left the honeycomb mesh bare for the time being, make it stand out a little + matches the matte black / stainless theme throughout. I'll shine it up a bit then lacquer it when the rest has had its 3 coats of CIO.
Certainly no lack of air now!
I bought the parts, and "designed it" while all the welding and fitting was done by the brilliant MC AutoCentre in Uckfield.
Test fit, looks quite good!
First coat of Buzzweld CIO, had *just* enough left to give one thin coat on both sections. Got more en route, I did contemplate using some high build primer to fill in and small nicks but considering its going to be hit by branches a lot I decided against it.
The black certainly helps it blend in better!
Left the honeycomb mesh bare for the time being, make it stand out a little + matches the matte black / stainless theme throughout. I'll shine it up a bit then lacquer it when the rest has had its 3 coats of CIO.
Certainly no lack of air now!
I bought the parts, and "designed it" while all the welding and fitting was done by the brilliant MC AutoCentre in Uckfield.
That looks so much better than the wibbly pipe sticking out the side vent type (like I've gotSpent the day grinding back the welds, then sanding it back, getting it flush as I could.
Test fit, looks quite good!
View attachment 143766 View attachment 143767View attachment 143768
First coat of Buzzweld CIO, had *just* enough left to give one thin coat on both sections. Got more en route, I did contemplate using some high build primer to fill in and small nicks but considering its going to be hit by branches a lot I decided against it.
View attachment 143769
The black certainly helps it blend in better!
View attachment 143770
Left the honeycomb mesh bare for the time being, make it stand out a little + matches the matte black / stainless theme throughout. I'll shine it up a bit then lacquer it when the rest has had its 3 coats of CIO.
View attachment 143771
Certainly no lack of air now!
I bought the parts, and "designed it" while all the welding and fitting was done by the brilliant MC AutoCentre in Uckfield.
) What's the visibility like where it runs up the A pillar? Or have you managed to place it behind the pillar in your line of sight?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
That looks so much better than the wibbly pipe sticking out the side vent type (like I've got
What's the visibility like where it runs up the A pillar? Or have you managed to place it behind the pillar in your line of sight?
Thanks! Took a while, was touch and go for a while if it would even look good lol. Can barely see it tbh, we spent a good while tweaking it so that it would be central on the cage and not blocking visibility too much!
I did mention it to the guys that welded it up for me, I'm sure they would jump at the chance for another!
Maybe one day on a servo
hahaMakes an awesome noise too!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
For a while now my front arches have been falling apart, the passenger side is held on by only 3 bolts! I wasnt overly fond of buying new ones and painting them either... Much money and time.
Friend of mine suggested fibreglass (no idea why I didnt think of this...) to repair them, can be a little brittle I know but the only damage is around the mounts! So should work fine incase of various impacts.
Going to fibre glass a washer in place as well for some extra strength!
Upol fibre glass kit en route, £15 instead of £500 im happy!
Though I want my CIO to arrive!! I WANT my snorkel on!
Friend of mine suggested fibreglass (no idea why I didnt think of this...
) to repair them, can be a little brittle I know but the only damage is around the mounts! So should work fine incase of various impacts.Going to fibre glass a washer in place as well for some extra strength!
Upol fibre glass kit en route, £15 instead of £500 im happy!
Though I want my CIO to arrive!! I WANT my snorkel on!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
MUD Pod & Carlings ordered! Though they are out of stock for the fog switch (off-mom EU spec) for at least a month! Which is probably about when I'll get around to doing the wiring
Plan is to run the wiring for everything (roof bars, bumper spots, beacons, rear bar, TC) up there then connect everything up fully once I can get the fog switch, hopefully by then I'll have the gauges too (Stack EGT (needed) & Stack Oil Temp (can't have just one gauge, itd look off!)) so plenty of wiring to do
Also found a remote control loom for a bar I bought for the 90 but never fitted (sold the bar kept the loom) It'd be nice to be able to switch the rear bar on remotely when camping etc... though got to work out how to wire it up so I can still have it on a switch on the dash for normal reversing in the dead of night
Hopefully my Buzzweld arrives before the weekend so I can get my snorkel on! It's just hanging there waiting for more paint!!
Plan is to run the wiring for everything (roof bars, bumper spots, beacons, rear bar, TC) up there then connect everything up fully once I can get the fog switch, hopefully by then I'll have the gauges too (Stack EGT (needed) & Stack Oil Temp (can't have just one gauge, itd look off!)) so plenty of wiring to do
Also found a remote control loom for a bar I bought for the 90 but never fitted (sold the bar kept the loom) It'd be nice to be able to switch the rear bar on remotely when camping etc... though got to work out how to wire it up so I can still have it on a switch on the dash for normal reversing in the dead of night
Hopefully my Buzzweld arrives before the weekend so I can get my snorkel on! It's just hanging there waiting for more paint!!
