So im having to send my Nancom in for repair. Two PCs, 2 SD cars, restored and updated at least 10 times. Still cant record live data or access SLABS... Tad annoying but €35 not half bad!

Mapping/performance update. Everything is running brilliantly, except every now and then when at max revs and holding max boost it will drop 10psi for a second, kangaroo and jump back to 22psi. Quite annoying when your trying to show up a ricer Corsa :rolleyes:

My guess is the boost box is not doing its job, ive emailed TD5inside and waiting for a reply (taking a while.....). An uprated MAP sensor and calibration should solve this, for the time being the boost is being reduced to 18psi and the boost box is coming out. Never liked them, now im sure i dont like them.
 
bankz5152 said:
So im having to send my Nancom in for repair. Two PCs, 2 SD cars, restored and updated at least 10 times. Still cant record live data or access SLABS... Tad annoying but €35 not half bad!

Mapping/performance update. Everything is running brilliantly, except every now and then when at max revs and holding max boost it will drop 10psi for a second, kangaroo and jump back to 22psi. Quite annoying when your trying to show up a ricer Corsa :rolleyes:

My guess is the boost box is not doing its job, ive emailed TD5inside and waiting for a reply (taking a while.....). An uprated MAP sensor and calibration should solve this, for the time being the boost is being reduced to 18psi and the boost box is coming out. Never liked them, now im sure i dont like them.
Click to expand...

sounds like ur having fun

hope this isn't a daft question, but is the fuel pump able to keep up and fuel filter clean

also have u had to put a different air filter in
 
Yup! Haha

The pump should be able to keep up no problem, filter was replaced few months ago, Framm, barely covered any miles since.

Clean pipercross filter
 
bankz5152 said:
Yup! Haha

The pump should be able to keep up no problem, filter was replaced few months ago, Framm, barely covered any miles since.

Clean pipercross filter
Click to expand...

hope it wasn't rude , but u know when u look at something sometimes the silly things are missed

hopefully ur not swearing at me :p:D
 
Hahaha not at all! Nope all hoses are solid and not ecen that old! Im 95% certain its the boost box, either way ill find out tomorrow when it comes out and the boost is dropped
 
bankz5152 said:
Hahaha not at all! Nope all hoses are solid and not ecen that old! Im 95% certain its the boost box, either way ill find out tomorrow when it comes out and the boost is dropped
Click to expand...

hope all goes well and would be interesting to see what it was

i've got to replace my turbo intercooler hoses

one of the small ones that goes onto the turbo is suppose to take some 5 x hours to replace, seeing so much has to come out of the way to get to it , wheel, inner wheel arch, heat panels, metal intercooler pipes, etc,etc

ordered some new stainless steel t bolt clamps, just so when i get to it can replace all the clips at the same time

also got to free up the sticking turbo actuator arm , occasionally will go into limp mode

did have an extra code program added to my iid so the actuator arm motors on and off when putting the ign key in

throws up the fault, turbo overboost

think it's going to be a long job along with plenty of tea, am dreading it,
 
That job is exactly what I hate about the D3, alot of garages actually lift the whole body off the chassis!
 
bankz5152 said:
That job is exactly what I hate about the D3, alot of garages actually lift the whole body off the chassis!
Click to expand...

did see that , land rover also remove the body to do the rear cam belt

however the two guys done the whole lot in 5 x hours

the rear belt he replaced in 45 mins

plus land rover wanted over 2k to do the belts

when i replace the intercooler hoses will just take my time, didn't bother me if it takes a week, save on labour costs

know that if i couldn't work on the landy there would be no way i could afford a land rover

hope all goes well with urs , any bets on what it could be

know ur right , ref the box
 
Lot of work! Ive decided go slow, take your time. Who cares if its off the road a little longer!

Not an overly succesful day... Attempted to bleed the brakes as the felt a little low, every thing was going so well until I tried the offside rear. Bleed nipple only went and sheered off! :mad: and sheered off recessed o_O luckily its still sealed so I can still drive about...

Rear calipers arnt that hard to change so at least theres that.

Other than that the boost box was painfully removed, the LR connector was damaged so new ones enroute.

Actuator has been lengthened 5 turns, which should equal around 18/19psi. Ill double check Sat when the new ECU pins arrive. Hopefully this solves the top end issue

Td5inside are awaiting delivery of the new MAP sensors so id say 2 weeks or so before I get one.
 
bankz5152 said:
Lot of work! Ive decided go slow, take your time. Who cares if its off the road a little longer!

Not an overly succesful day... Attempted to bleed the brakes as the felt a little low, every thing was going so well until I tried the offside rear. Bleed nipple only went and sheered off! :mad: and sheered off recessed o_O luckily its still sealed so I can still drive about...

Rear calipers arnt that hard to change so at least theres that.

Other than that the boost box was painfully removed, the LR connector was damaged so new ones enroute.

Actuator has been lengthened 5 turns, which should equal around 18/19psi. Ill double check Sat when the new ECU pins arrive. Hopefully this solves the top end issue

Td5inside are awaiting delivery of the new MAP sensors so id say 2 weeks or so before I get one.
Click to expand...

will be doing my brakes in the summer

intend to fit new discs and pads all round, so that i know it's all done and dusted

not looking forward in replacing the epb shoes behind the rear disc

but like everything will just take my time

hope all is well with urs and get it resolved
 
Shouldnt be too hard to do, though avoid Mintex pads as they squeel!! Use Ferrodo or Blueprint both excellent imo.

I start fitting the rocksliders yesterday, a little more work doing it on a 110! The sills where not in great condition, no holes or anything just quite a lot of surface rust so sanded down, acid etch, then a few coats of Buzzweld CIO. Looks good!

20170302_112735_zpsaiz90atm.jpg

20170302_115734_zpsg60nsgjq.jpg

20170302_123611_zpsga6heurd.jpg

20170302_160541_zpseiy3iufl.jpg


The CIO is almost high build so works very well to cover up ****ty paint. Should get the sliders themselves fitted on Saturday, did break a couple drill bits going through the outriggers though :rolleyes:
 
Just realised im off to France in a couple months! I need to get cracking and make sure everything is running 100%!

Ordered a swing away spare wheel carrier, spare Cooper Pro mounted on an Anthracite steel wheel.
 
Sliders are on! Took a while as they bolt in in many more places than on a 90, plus I had to shave a few bits off my 110 with the grinder get them to fit. Forgot pics :rolleyes: They do transform the look though, much more aggressive looking and is SO much easier to get in and out haha.

I did manage to drill my thumb though:confused::confused:.... Didnt go all the way through but its deep Mikita with a brand new bit on full power... Stings like hell :rolleyes:

I did do some testing re the boost box, which was a pita. Pin 6 no longer stays in the ECU red plug as the plug must have been slightly damaged when I removed the boost box :( i'm not about to rewire it for one pin, so silicone'd in place. Only enough to hold it there though, I can still get it out if need be.

Though after much work the boost box is out and the boost has been turned down to 18psi, from some preliminary testing it now holds happily at max revs/max boost which leads me to believe the boost box was not doing its job properly! Awaiting the uprated MAP so I can get the boost back up to 24psi without these issues. Just glad to have it running properly! The lower boost has made it a little smokey however :rolleyes:

Popcorn :D


NJI Aluminium Top Cover arrived! It is rather nice, the company is a pleasure to deal with, that said I'm not convinced its ~£750 good, more like £500... Then again they are custom made to order, plus it is the most secure top cover available, need to find a weekend to fit it!

Test Fit -
20170305_100503_zps60qnyco8.jpg


Going to mount my CB Radio aerial on behind the quarter windows on cover, I may even fit the electric FM Radio aerial on there too, that or fit a DAB one...

Not the biggest fan of the bare chequer plate so will Raptor, but undecided whether do a fine texture with the HVLP gun or a more coarse texture with the Shutz gun... Opinions?

Fine/Straight Raptor HVLP Gun -
20170223_202839_zpsnb84czmu.jpg


Shutz -
20170211_161720_zpstxytskc4.jpg


Shutz w/sand added -
20170224_124203_zps3nafmo7n.jpg
 
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Erm I may have misjudged a line today... :rolleyes::eek::confused:



Surprisingly not much damage, no dents broken parts, just some hefty scratches on the drivers side rear door and quarter panel. I know a chap that should be able to sort it pretty easily and cheaply!
 
I have to ask, did you have your eyes closed and go completely off line ???

I assume it was a simple strainght run thru and you went off course at the top and drove along the wall edge. At least that is what it looked like.


Cheers
 
:D:D:D No point crying over spilt milk ay! Damage isnt too bad, just some bad scratches.

It was a very simple course, momentary lapse in concentration and misjudged where my wheels where, by the time I attempted to correct I was already rolling.

Got a good video of the recovery and a few pics which I'll try and get up tomorrow.
 
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