bankz5152
Well-Known Member
93mph? While it may do that I don't want to be going that fast in a 3 tonne brick! haha
That 4600psi boost
who said land rovers where slow? Cheers Neilly, quite the bumper. Wanted something that looks good, isnt common and will protect the landy from, well anything!
cheers mate
mine goes in this friday to have all the cam belts replaced, inc water pump, aux belt and all the tensioners, inc a new upgraded oil pump and cover
will be good if that's ok to catch up some time please , must admit do like the fenders
alas though got to have an auto because of my back , as they destroyed the nerves in my left leg , can no longer drive a manual,
neilly
Well-Known Member
93mph? While it may do that I don't want to be going that fast in a 3 tonne brick! haha
That 4600psi boost
Deffo , the sticker in the window....................
Does it always give strange readings?
Cheers.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Sure we can work something out! Could always be fancy and build an auto Fender, maybe with a V8?
Maybe I was wrong about the 10hp
It has been for the past week or so, BBS think the unit is a bit shagged. I've got to update it again today and test it, if not off for repair (£25 - £35 aint bad inc shipping)
Mostly just can't get max readings sometimes, was the same on my 90, when you try it just has zeros. Also can't record live data, when I try it freezes 8/10 times, can't access the SLABS either, just says 'cannot communicate with ECU' managed to get on there twice but thats it
neilly
Well-Known Member
Is that not because of if the engine is running or not, or position of the ignition key if engine is not running( I thought it had to be in pos II for this?
Cheers
meant to ask how u getting on with ur tyres
i fitted a new set of the cooper at/3 , got to admit was impressed in the snow we had
we're twitchy the first few miles but after that we're really good, can't hear them down the motorway either
the true test is when i get them on the mud, grass etc to see how they perform
i fitted a new set of the cooper at/3 , got to admit was impressed in the snow we had
we're twitchy the first few miles but after that we're really good, can't hear them down the motorway either
the true test is when i get them on the mud, grass etc to see how they perform
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Very well! Road wise they are a little noisy and a little lumpy but bearable, off road brilliant. Was at a P&P where it was almost all clay, the tyres kept me moving much further than my old standard STTs would have. If you did a lot of motorway miles I wouldnt suggest them but for what I do they are great.
Ideally if funds ever allowed I would like another set of road or A/T tyres for normal running. Fit them to the Bowlers and get some modulars for the Coopers
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Got off work early so decided to get some paint going! Plus my new rock sliders arrived Got to say the Dixon Fabrications sliders are bloody good quality, very heavy duty, well made and will be very solid.
Had a go using the HVLP gun for the first time, looking for a finer texture on the NAS Step, came out pretty well. Much nicer texture, I'll be doing the front bumper, roll cage and the boot lid in the same texture.
Quick pic
Got to say the Dixon Fabrications sliders are bloody good quality, very heavy duty, well made and will be very solid. Had a go using the HVLP gun for the first time, looking for a finer texture on the NAS Step, came out pretty well. Much nicer texture, I'll be doing the front bumper, roll cage and the boot lid in the same texture.
Quick pic
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Got a fair bit done over the weekend, mainly more paint work!
Keyed and rubbed down the NAS step with 160 Grit, took ages! but reminded me I need to buy some new dust masks!
Acid Etch where I had gone through to bare metal, same on the wing top plate -
After this I also did x2 coats of the Upol GRIP, mainly in high contact areas and places I couldnt rub down.
After 3 coats using the HVLP gun on 30psi, straight Raptor, as in I didnt reduce it or use thinners, came out quite nicely I think, more subtle -
According to Upol you can reduce the Raptor up to 10% if using an HVLP gun which will give an even finer texture, 3 coats should be as tough as 2 coats using the shutz.
Steering guard fitted after 3 coats on the front and 2 coats on the back, looks much better than the standard galv colour. Shutz gun at 60psi -
Dixon Fabrications Rock Sliders being sprayed up, really good quality sliders and the powder coat was surprisingly resilient to sanding...
2 coats at 60psi all over, then a 3rd coat on the underside/inside areas then a 3rd coat of sand Raptor for grip getting in and out.
Christ I made a mess! Got more paint on the floor than on anywhere else! The soles of my shoes are also now Raptor'd Got to repaint the garage floor next weekend... Needed doing anyway tbh, there will now just be lumpy Raptor bits
Close up of the wing top plate, 2 coats with the shutz gun on 50psi, then a final coat with black silica sand added -
I did block the shutz gun 4 times while doing the sandy parts, because like I a total donut I free poured the sand which ended up in more sand than paint at points... Came out alright though, could have been a little better imo.
Test fit, looks good! -
Going to fit using rivnuts, any need to use the foam backing?
Terrafirma 1" bump stop extensions on the rear, naturally seized in place so had to grind the bolts off, in the process the rubber flew off as well... I cleaned up the mounts then used a large amount of Sikaflex and some carefully placed cable ties should hold for a while at least... Well I hope...
Had I known the rubber would come off, I would have bought extended bump stops instead....
Finally replacement Euroflow rear box arrived. Jesus christ was it horrific, so poorly made it was sent back at their cost. None of the tubing was the same diameter, kinks and rolls at the bends, no rolled tip (which was also 2" not 3") and to boot the actual box was about 20% larger than the LR one which made fitting impossible... Guess I'll have to get one made up...
Keyed and rubbed down the NAS step with 160 Grit, took ages! but reminded me I need to buy some new dust masks!
Acid Etch where I had gone through to bare metal, same on the wing top plate -
After this I also did x2 coats of the Upol GRIP, mainly in high contact areas and places I couldnt rub down.
After 3 coats using the HVLP gun on 30psi, straight Raptor, as in I didnt reduce it or use thinners, came out quite nicely I think, more subtle -
According to Upol you can reduce the Raptor up to 10% if using an HVLP gun which will give an even finer texture, 3 coats should be as tough as 2 coats using the shutz.
Steering guard fitted after 3 coats on the front and 2 coats on the back, looks much better than the standard galv colour. Shutz gun at 60psi -
Dixon Fabrications Rock Sliders being sprayed up, really good quality sliders and the powder coat was surprisingly resilient to sanding...
2 coats at 60psi all over, then a 3rd coat on the underside/inside areas then a 3rd coat of sand Raptor for grip getting in and out.
Christ I made a mess! Got more paint on the floor than on anywhere else! The soles of my shoes are also now Raptor'd
Got to repaint the garage floor next weekend... Needed doing anyway tbh, there will now just be lumpy Raptor bits Close up of the wing top plate, 2 coats with the shutz gun on 50psi, then a final coat with black silica sand added -
I did block the shutz gun 4 times while doing the sandy parts, because like I a total donut I free poured the sand which ended up in more sand than paint at points... Came out alright though, could have been a little better imo.
Test fit, looks good! -
Going to fit using rivnuts, any need to use the foam backing?
Terrafirma 1" bump stop extensions on the rear, naturally seized in place so had to grind the bolts off, in the process the rubber flew off as well... I cleaned up the mounts then used a large amount of Sikaflex and some carefully placed cable ties
should hold for a while at least... Well I hope...
Had I known the rubber would come off, I would have bought extended bump stops instead....
Finally replacement Euroflow rear box arrived. Jesus christ was it horrific, so poorly made it was sent back at their cost. None of the tubing was the same diameter, kinks and rolls at the bends, no rolled tip (which was also 2" not 3"
) and to boot the actual box was about 20% larger than the LR one which made fitting impossible... Guess I'll have to get one made up...
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bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Did a fair bit of motorway over the weekend as well the 110 pulls well happily up to 70+ with no real issues, I do however miss my higher ratio 5th!! Thinking about an Ultraspec Disco box now... Would the higher ratios be fine with the 33" tyres?
As for the tyres they are alright but not fantastic, you start to get a fair bit of 'light' vibration above 60 which makes it a little unpleasant to drive. Feels as though you have a massage setting on high in the seats! 60 and below though perfectly fine, not that noisy though which is good.
As for the tyres they are alright but not fantastic, you start to get a fair bit of 'light' vibration above 60 which makes it a little unpleasant to drive. Feels as though you have a massage setting on high in the seats! 60 and below though perfectly fine, not that noisy though which is good.
looking good there mate , always good as well having a garage
will u be bringing it to lz13
great , i will be leaving early friday morning
wondering when u may be heading up there
see if maybe a few of us may meet up on route
fingers crossed u can, will be good to see some kent landies at lz13 , lol
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
NAS Rear Step is fitted! Well for the most part anyway...
For some reason the main central crossmember holes did not line up, out by at least 5mm. So I had to enlarge the hole, luckily I have a nice pillar drill! Made light work of it. Then cleaned up with a dremmel.
When that was done I found the nice black washers supplied also do not fit! They foul on the tread plate, sooo grinder came out and cut a little off
Eventually got it on, however I did not have a hex key/socket large enough to do up the main xmember bolts so I improvised and used an M10 bolt to tighten it, not the best idea I know and it won't be used for towing or recovery until I can get them tightened to the correct 240nm.
I love the look though! I don't think it will ruin the departure angle that much, it doesnt sit too low though I may make up a 'slider' to sit on the other side of the tow ball mount, should make it act less like a plough. Dixon bate hitch fitted, the TF recovery hoop (despite what FF said) does not fit, so this is the only real option. I did sand it down and spray the hitch with Raptor in the HVLP gun as well, just so it matches the rest!
Also makes for some sturdy rear impact protection on and off road. Over all the Terrafirma NAS Step is the best priced one on the market and the closest to the OEM variant. Bolts in on each end of the Xmember with a steel spacer that sits inside the xmember (surprisingly easy to fit, just tie some string on incase you drop it into the xmember!) then some larger bolts fit through the original jacking points, main Xmember hex bolts, 3 bolts go in to the bottom of the xmember (I could only fit two due to a massively shagged bolt half stuck inside!) and finally the chassis leg reinforcement arms. Overall very solid imo.
Gave the xmember a few coats of Buzzweld CIO aswell, great product. I really should prep the xmember properly and give it another spray. Get it nice and smooth looking.
For some reason the main central crossmember holes did not line up, out by at least 5mm. So I had to enlarge the hole, luckily I have a nice pillar drill! Made light work of it. Then cleaned up with a dremmel.
When that was done I found the nice black washers supplied also do not fit! They foul on the tread plate, sooo grinder came out and cut a little off
Eventually got it on, however I did not have a hex key/socket large enough to do up the main xmember bolts so I improvised and used an M10 bolt to tighten it, not the best idea I know and it won't be used for towing or recovery until I can get them tightened to the correct 240nm.
I love the look though! I don't think it will ruin the departure angle that much, it doesnt sit too low though I may make up a 'slider' to sit on the other side of the tow ball mount, should make it act less like a plough. Dixon bate hitch fitted, the TF recovery hoop (despite what FF said) does not fit, so this is the only real option. I did sand it down and spray the hitch with Raptor in the HVLP gun as well, just so it matches the rest!
Also makes for some sturdy rear impact protection on and off road. Over all the Terrafirma NAS Step is the best priced one on the market and the closest to the OEM variant. Bolts in on each end of the Xmember with a steel spacer that sits inside the xmember (surprisingly easy to fit, just tie some string on incase you drop it into the xmember!) then some larger bolts fit through the original jacking points, main Xmember hex bolts, 3 bolts go in to the bottom of the xmember (I could only fit two due to a massively shagged bolt half stuck inside!) and finally the chassis leg reinforcement arms. Overall very solid imo.
Gave the xmember a few coats of Buzzweld CIO aswell, great product. I really should prep the xmember properly and give it another spray. Get it nice and smooth looking.
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