bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,001

The 110 has been a right bitch the past 10 days.

Firstly had a bleed nipe corrode and leak, had to leave the 110 at work while I borrowed the mrs car to get a new nipple from my parents place. Nice 100mile round trip at 7pm. Got back just before it lost all its brake fluid.

Its also been starting like a PIG for a while, injector seals had been done by Gigglepin around a year ago didnt suspect that to be the fault but hey ho. That was exactly the issue.

Replaced them myself last Sunday, fairly daunting having to remove the cam carrier but all went perfectly. Of course used genuine land rover parts in gen LR packaging.

Starts on the button now.

Then to top it all off was on the way back from Southampton when I had severe wheel bearing failure.

Inner bearing has friction welded itself to the stub. 1500nm buzz gun to pull the hub nut off. As you can see tore the threads as it came off.

Took a while to get the disc off! Total rebuild with LR parts and timken bearings.

Had to get breakdown home, who dumped me halfway home at midnight with no relay until 10am the next day. Not really acceptable.

Finally it seems the 110 happy again

 

H

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,002

That’s a mess…. Pain when they weld themselves to the shaft.do you pack the bearings with grease before fitting?

plus point you can do your own work & give your motor the love it needs

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,003

Yeah, fully packed with grease. All done by the book, not sure why it failed.

 

H

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,004

bankz5152 said:

Yeah, fully packed with grease. All done by the book, not sure why it failed.

Click to expand...

Only asked as it looked like a “dry” bearing.
I also pack the spacer gap with grease just incase.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,005

Same. Its dry because it got very very hot. All the grease was caked into the stub!

 

KISSMYAURA

Well-Known Member

• Oct 2, 2021

• #2,006

bankz5152 said:

Same. Its dry because it got very very hot. All the grease was caked into the stub!

Click to expand...

FFS Spooky!! must be the season buddy, my rear stub axle decided to sheite its self and dump loads of diff oil everywhere last night, my mate said "hub seal" very confidently, told him im not so sure, (guess who is a tenner richer today ) the poxy Stub to axle gasket leaking, and yes stub axle threads foobarred too, so now waiting for new stub axle to arrive.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Nov 7, 2021

• #2,007

Been a while since I posted something interesting!

For the first time in forever took the switch cluster off to add a 7th switch.

Which will control the new switched exhaust being custom made at Demand Engineering tomorrow

3" straight pipe with a switch for a large silencer. Quiet mode and asbo mode

Pics and videos tomorrow!

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Nov 7, 2021

• #2,008

Also painted my new rear calipers from LOF. Genuine AP calipers with SS pistons. Probably one of the only things that are original left to replace

LOF Brakes require LOF green! Thanks to Buzzweld.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Nov 8, 2021

• #2,009

All done! Dan is a lovely person to deal with and did exactly what I asked for. Could not be happier with the result and the welding is excellent.

Switch is mounted as above, so quiet when running via the backbox, flick of a switch and back to agro mode



Also remade the botch job I did with the britpart exhaust, went for a 3.5" cut tip. Aggressive looking yet stylish and suits the 110 well I think.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Nov 9, 2021

• #2,010

Well its in for MOT. Fingers crossed.

Also cant seem to get to the bottom of this starting issue. Replaced the injector seals recently after some poor starting and it cutting out. Perfect for about a month.

Now its doing the same again, sometimes will start on the button. Othertimes is a good 30 seconds of cranking before it will fire.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Dec 4, 2021

• #2,011

After replacing the fuel pump and all the fuel filter valves the issue appears to be gone!

Eventually did pass the MOT....

However something is breaking down for sure, just not sure what.

In the meantime I bought something else...

Lovely Toyota GT86 with a supercharger

 

H

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Dec 4, 2021

• #2,012

bankz5152 said:

After replacing the fuel pump and all the fuel filter valves the issue appears to be gone!

Eventually did pass the MOT....

However something is breaking down for sure, just not sure what.

In the meantime I bought something else...

Lovely Toyota GT86 with a supercharger

View attachment 253814

Click to expand...

I can see that electrical breakdown will last longer than normal. Any thing to drive a car with a heater. Bet it feels like sitting on the floor & driving a go cart

 

H

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Dec 4, 2021

• #2,013

Any dry connections /plugs on any ECUs ?
otherwise you will be testing a load of cables.
(Hate modern electrics that don’t show faults correctly)

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Dec 4, 2021

• #2,014

I feel like its head/block related. Possibly poor compression, failing injectors or potentially piston rings. Given that I have another car if anything major does go wrong with the 110 I can send it to Empire for a full diagnosis.

The 86 is a pleasure to drive. Very low indeed, the roof is the height of the 110s drivers seat

 

KISSMYAURA

Well-Known Member

• Dec 6, 2021

• #2,015

bankz5152 said:

After replacing the fuel pump and all the fuel filter valves the issue appears to be gone!

Eventually did pass the MOT....

However something is breaking down for sure, just not sure what.

In the meantime I bought something else...

Lovely Toyota GT86 with a supercharger

View attachment 253814

Click to expand...

VERY NOICE!!!!!!
How long till popcorn install, and you break out the welder and mod the entire running gear, and fit the flared arches?

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Dec 6, 2021

• #2,016

Hahaha this ones staying pretty much as is, bar some new wheels/tyres and maybe some coilovers.

The 110s getting a big neglected cant stop driving the 86!

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Dec 21, 2021

• #2,017

Never a dull moment.... had some loon coming at me in the middle of the road on a country lane, went into the hedge to avoid. Clipped a concrete bollard

No problem I thought, Bowler racing alloys be able to survive that and be repaired....

Nope! Totally ruined. I did take it to a few places to have it looked at, soon as the heat touched it the crack got worse and worse. Neither place wanted to weld it, didnt feel it would be safe.

So I had to buy a new one not cheap these days are they!! I paid £180ish 5/6years ago. Just over £300 now!!

Also finally had a proper look at the crank sensor wiring. It had infact chaffed through, not sure how but repaired that and all sheilded again.

Havnt actually driven the 110 for 10 days! Finally back on the road.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Jan 15, 2022

• #2,018

Finally happend.

Engines dead. No compression, wont start

 

Knappster

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jan 15, 2022

• #2,019

Not good.

 

bankz5152

Well-Known Member

• Jan 15, 2022

• #2,020

Nope! Totally ****.

I have expected this for a while to be honest, thats why I bought the Toyota.

Now to find out whats wrong