I've set them all at height. 5 inch at the rears & 6 inch at the fronts. I'll measure again tomorrow...

Meanwhile, pump ran fine when I jumped the relay. But, is it supposed to run with the engine on & relay replaced while on EAS fault? The car was sitting low down, but i had the front door and the tailgate open at the time o_O

Confused.
 
I've set them all at height. 5 inch at the rears & 6 inch at the fronts. I'll measure again tomorrow...

Meanwhile, pump ran fine when I jumped the relay. But, is it supposed to run with the engine on & relay replaced while on EAS fault? The car was sitting low down, but i had the front door and the tailgate open at the time o_O

Confused.
Pump will run with doors open but valves to the bags will stay closed. Mines been faulting last week because I knew I had a duff sensor. It still levelled but only downwards. In other words, every time I stopped, it would drop to the lowest sensor reading but wouldn't go back up until I reset the fault.
New sensors all round and set standard and motorway heights with blocks and so far all is well.
 
I've set them all at height. 5 inch at the rears & 6 inch at the fronts. I'll measure again tomorrow...

Meanwhile, pump ran fine when I jumped the relay. But, is it supposed to run with the engine on & relay replaced while on EAS fault? The car was sitting low down, but i had the front door and the tailgate open at the time o_O

Confused.

If it only runs on diag or with the relay bridged the thermal switch in the pump might be cooked. I got a replacement from Farnell for about a fiver. You can get them off eBay too I guess.

EAS emergency inflation. Don't T-off into the existing pipes. If the valve block is suspect it will still go down. Just get straight connectors and bung scrader valves on the end. That way you take the EAS valve block out of it. You should remove the delay timer relay under the passenger seat so the EAS is taken out. It'll give the 35mph max message but ignore it. I wouldn't drive too far like it though.

You need to work through @wammers How To guide in the Technical section. If it is going down from the valve block end I can only think a diaphram is leaking or possibly one of the nose cones.
 
I cant get her on diagnosis until Hamish is back off holiday :( So no diagnosis done. I fired her up, bridged the relay and the pump ran fine. However, I was confused to hear it STILL running with the relay replaced! As stated, doors open. Is that a problem?

Looking out the window, she looks to be in the same position as I left her last night. So I can only imagine there are no leaks at the air bags. What does the relay look like under the seat, a standard yellow or green as under the bonnet? And why do you suppose the car may be lowering only while it's being driven? What are nose cones??

Sorry to sound a bit thick :rolleyes: I guess I should have inserted my one ways directly to the pipes, bypassing the Tee pieces, but it seemed the right thing to do at the time :oops:
 
I cant get her on diagnosis until Hamish is back off holiday :( So no diagnosis done. I fired her up, bridged the relay and the pump ran fine. However, I was confused to hear it STILL running with the relay replaced! As stated, doors open. Is that a problem? Not a problem. the pump will run even with the doors open. I often let mine run for a while with the doors open to get some air in the tank if I know it's fully depressurised. I don't think it makes much difference but at least when you close the door, you can see it moving instead of it creeping up ever so slowly.

Looking out the window, she looks to be in the same position as I left her last night. So I can only imagine there are no leaks at the air bags. What does the relay look like under the seat, a standard yellow or green as under the bonnet? And why do you suppose the car may be lowering only while it's being driven? What are nose cones?? I think the lowering whilst driving is either a duff sensor (Unlikely as I think you said you'd replaced them) or the heights being set too close to the accepted range. If you then go around a bend it drops outside the "normal range" and the ECU thinks, "Hmm that's not right, I best use my defaults" Mine was doing that after I had new airbags fitted as he set them all too high. Looking at how you're setting them as 5 inches or whatever it was, I'm guessing you're measuring from the top of the tyre to the wheel arch? You should be measuring from the centre of the wheel to the wheelarch if you're doing it without blocks. That way, the tyres have no effect. When I got mine back after the new bags were fitted, it was all over the place so, not having any blocks, I used the measurement method and it got me close enough to stop it bouncing all over. The required measurements are in @wammers how to in the tech archive.
Nose cones are the cones on the end of the NRV's (Non return valves) in the valve block.


Sorry to sound a bit thick :rolleyes: I guess I should have inserted my one ways directly to the pipes, bypassing the Tee pieces, but it seemed the right thing to do at the time :oops: Yep, using manual valves tee'd into the system still allows the system to control the bags. Even in fault mode, mine was trying to level it. It wouldn't add air but if the corners had a much different reading when I stopped, the other 3 would drop to the same level. Eventually it would be on the stops until I cleared the fault, then it would go back to the settings I asked for.
See above in red. Really is difficult to sort out without diag!!! I just think you need 2 sets of blocks for motorway and standard height making up and then set the heights using these. I then think all your problems will go away. (By the way, I bought a broom handle for 4 quid and chopped it up on my chop saw. It is about 28mm dia so I just built one end up a bit with parcel tape so they stayed in place and they work a treat.Again, the lengths for the blocks are in wammers EAS how to.
 
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Hi Doo iv got cable n disk somewhere (AND I KNOW WHERE YOU ARE ) i will look it out if ya want try it :D
 
Hi Doo iv got cable n disk somewhere (AND I KNOW WHERE YOU ARE ) i will look it out if ya want try it :D

Oh yes please matron Gutted, had to dash to a kids party so no time to look for that relay. Got almost there and bumped into a kerb and down she went :mad:

I can fix it, but had to drive up a country lane with go kart suspension Anyway, going to do some surgery before I can leave to drive 23 miles home again.o_O
 
Ok doo iv looked it out ,you will have to charge your laptop,im working tonight but if im up your way tonight i will drop it off .....put no of house on your windscreen ,if that suits:D
 
Crikey, what a performance. These new fangled cars would drive me insane. If I want to lower the ride height of my series 3, I just let the tyres down, job done.

Col
 
Ok doo iv looked it out ,you will have to charge your laptop,im working tonight but if im up your way tonight i will drop it off .....put no of house on your windscreen ,if that suits:D

I have two laptops with good batteries, that's because they're win 10 and barely get used Hateful things. I have a win 7 and a forty metre extension cable though
 
I have two laptops with good batteries, that's because they're win 10 and barely get used Hateful things. I have a win 7 and a forty metre extension cable though

Ok, I found a relay under passenger seat. Quite tall, black, 6 pins (one small) and it has the following printed on it: Land Rover, TRW, Rover P/No ANR 4652. TRW P/No 5160600A. Then I assume date built 39/99.
 
Ok, I found a relay under passenger seat. Quite tall, black, 6 pins (one small) and it has the following printed on it: Land Rover, TRW, Rover P/No ANR 4652. TRW P/No 5160600A. Then I assume date built 39/99.

Went for it and got home, despite the best efforts of some fat, old cock on a motorised bike. Kept changing lanes, then did it RIGHT in front of me so I tooted to warn him there was two tonnes of Britains worst bearing down on him and his fatness. Gave me the finger, even though it was CLEARLY his problem (even my 8 yr old lad exclaimed "Daddy, he's an arse!" :D

She's still up and I am ****ed off, fed up in general and between George and the cockonabike, can't be arsed with ANY more hassle tonight.

However, I dug out my old OmiScan OmiTech thingy which is happy to read the Air Bag system, but I need a certain serial port to OBD2 cable...

WP_20170617_17_17_52_Pro.jpg


It has a million hole serial port...

WP_20170617_17_18_02_Pro.jpg


And here's the "advice" from my OS

WP_20170617_17_07_40_Pro.jpg


Sorry it's sideways :rolleyes:
 
Ok, I found a relay under passenger seat. Quite tall, black, 6 pins (one small) and it has the following printed on it: Land Rover, TRW, Rover P/No ANR 4652. TRW P/No 5160600A. Then I assume date built 39/99.

That's the one.
 
I cant get her on diagnosis until Hamish is back off holiday :( So no diagnosis done. I fired her up, bridged the relay and the pump ran fine. However, I was confused to hear it STILL running with the relay replaced! As stated, doors open. Is that a problem?

Looking out the window, she looks to be in the same position as I left her last night. So I can only imagine there are no leaks at the air bags. What does the relay look like under the seat, a standard yellow or green as under the bonnet? And why do you suppose the car may be lowering only while it's being driven? What are nose cones??

Sorry to sound a bit thick :rolleyes: I guess I should have inserted my one ways directly to the pipes, bypassing the Tee pieces, but it seemed the right thing to do at the time :oops:

The nose cones are on the end of the solenoids that open to let air into or out of the bags inside the valve block.

Yeah, I had T pieces originally and with all my initial hassles discovered they were leaking and causing half my issues!
 
The nose cones are on the end of the solenoids that open to let air into or out of the bags inside the valve block.

Yeah, I had T pieces originally and with all my initial hassles discovered they were leaking and causing half my issues!

I can categorically state that these Tee pieces have not let any air go. I drove at 70mph along the dual carriageway to the gig and she sat beautifully (this was after inflating them the night before). I removed that relay, re inflated (after the kerb carry on) and drove home at the same speed, emptied the car, parked up and she's still the same height so I am certain they are as they should be. I would bloody hope so at the price I paid for the lot. They are good for 10 bar apparently (which means likely 15 at a push) and used in food processing and what not.

Anyway, I am sure it was just the pump at fault as she always stayed put. The last few weeks she was getting slower and slower to rise (I know how she feels) so I think the issue was the worn out seal. I am guessing the valves may not be too long behind though :confused:
 
I can categorically state that these Tee pieces have not let any air go. I drove at 70mph along the dual carriageway to the gig and she sat beautifully (this was after inflating them the night before). I removed that relay, re inflated (after the kerb carry on) and drove home at the same speed, emptied the car, parked up and she's still the same height so I am certain they are as they should be. I would bloody hope so at the price I paid for the lot. They are good for 10 bar apparently (which means likely 15 at a push) and used in food processing and what not.

Anyway, I am sure it was just the pump at fault as she always stayed put. The last few weeks she was getting slower and slower to rise (I know how she feels) so I think the issue was the worn out seal. I am guessing the valves may not be too long behind though :confused:

No, sounds like you're right and it is the compressor seal. Have you replaced it yet? If so and it just isn't running then it sounds like the thermal switch is cooked. Not expensive but a bit fiddly. Or talk to KurtJohnson.

You can have a T in the line to the tank and stick a little pressure guage on it. Compressor keeps it somewhere between 120 and 140 psi on mine.
 
No, sounds like you're right and it is the compressor seal. Have you replaced it yet? If so and it just isn't running then it sounds like the thermal switch is cooked. Not expensive but a bit fiddly. Or talk to KurtJohnson.

You can have a T in the line to the tank and stick a little pressure guage on it. Compressor keeps it somewhere between 120 and 140 psi on mine.

The pump runs fine with the relay bridged. It also runs with the relay replaced, but I have the EAS fault showing on the dash. I pulled the relay to stop the pump as well as the relay under the passenger seat to stop the drop. I always thought the rear drivers side sat a little low, so will get that addressed when I get the fault reset.
 
The pump runs fine with the relay bridged. It also runs with the relay replaced, but I have the EAS fault showing on the dash. I pulled the relay to stop the pump as well as the relay under the passenger seat to stop the drop. I always thought the rear drivers side sat a little low, so will get that addressed when I get the fault reset.

Send a message to Datatek on here. For a few notes he will post a lead and everything you'll ever need to diagnose the EAS.
 
Send a message to Datatek on here. For a few notes he will post a lead and everything you'll ever need to diagnose the EAS.

DubbleRR said he was coming by. I sent him a PM, but no reply so far.... I left my address & postcode and phone number. Now I need to find out which of my Win 10 laptops is the least hateful to do the software thingy...
 

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