The spark is a problem definitely but I have no idea why there is no spark! Timing and compression are ok far as I know as running ok when last stopped - deliberate stop not stalled
I definitely have not checked them yet as I was thinking the spark was the issue. Have to investigate which ones they are, found loads so far but not yet sure which is which
I will just have a little “long shot stab” the LPG system will inhibit fuel injection system when switched to gas.
Is the switch in the petrol position?even though it’s not working I don’t know how they do this bit but possible to do through the switch. Unlikely but.
Just one of those stupid questions/ideas
.
J
Is the switch in the petrol position?even though it’s not working I don’t know how they do this bit but possible to do through the switch. Unlikely but.
Just one of those stupid questions/ideas
.J
Long shots do work at times so not discounting this one but can't check at moment as the battery is on charge. Will let you know later. ThanksI will just have a little “long shot stab” the LPG system will inhibit fuel injection system when switched to gas.
Is the switch in the petrol position?even though it’s not working I don’t know how they do this bit but possible to do through the switch. Unlikely but.
Just one of those stupid questions/ideas
J
discool
Well-Known Member
Stay focused, why the EFI system is mentioned I don’t know, as you clearly state the issue is that there isn’t a spark.
If the engine doesn’t have a spark then starting at the coil, is the wiring to the coil top terminals fitted correctly, the + & - terminal, and does the coil have voltage when the ignition switch is in position 2, also while at coil check the new amplifier connectors and is the amp fitted correctly. Do u have a spark at the distributor end of the HT king lead when cranking the engine, if so, but there isn’t a spark at plug end of the plug leads then look at the distributor.
Then, but not in your case, after the engine fires up ok but then there’s running issues... then one of EFI systems components may be at fault which wasn’t present before.
Sent from my iPad on a train
Because OP unsure of wet plugs or spark.
Both need looking at and eliminate 1 by 1.
Which was a reason to mention relays.
The “long shot stab” hey I don’t know the system or who fitted so who knows
J
Hi there. Thanks for all that. Think I know answers but as new amp put on after all the tests i need to double check and can't do that before tomorrow as on my own today so can't turn key and check. Will update asap
discool
Well-Known Member
Ok, if you don’t have a helper, it’s not a problem.
But after checking that all of coil top wires go to the correct terminals, some double up on the terminal, (I’ll have to have a look a my coil to refresh my memory on what is what) then go to the ignition switch and switch to position 2 also the engine has been remobilise and the red dash light is extinguished then at the coil with the multi-meter check that there’s 12v or so at the + terminal, if not just check that the immobiliser hasn’t gone and remobilise as they do.
Shippers
Well-Known Member
The ignition switch supplies power to the coil when in position 2 and 3 and cuts it when turned to position 1...that's why the engine cuts out...iirc...
discool
Well-Known Member
That’s correct, so our point is?
Shippers
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone. I'm not getting anywhere as it keeps throwing up new problems i.e. now fuel pump not working when ignition turned on. Does anyone know of a mobile Discovery mechanic near Holmes Chapel, Cheshire - know to experienced person this will probably be so obvious but I can't track down the problem
discool
Well-Known Member
Oh dear that’s a shame, after be successful finding those iffy connections.
It’s relatively simple to follow the wiring diagram and trace the power supply from the EFI ECU via the fuel pump relay to the pump for any mechanic, remember that the pump won’t operate if the engines immobiliser is active, that’s because there’s no signal from the ECU.
As far as I can tell immobiliser is deactivated and starter motor turns. At moment mechanic can't get back for a few days and I don't have testing gear to do it on my own (or the knowledge)
Don’t be down on yourself.
You don’t need much to do some basic testing. And a lot of relays you can actually take of the plastic cover and activate manually , or remove and bridge across connections.
You just have to identify the relays.
Fuel pump I believe on the disco can be accessed under the little hatch under carpet.
Couple of bits of wire and a spare bulb and you can trace a lot. Or a cheap DMM from diy store.
Guys here will help @discool will keep you right on where to check I am sure
J
You make it sound so easy, wish I was as confident!!!Don’t be down on yourself.
You don’t need much to do some basic testing. And a lot of relays you can actually take of the plastic cover and activate manually , or remove and bridge across connections.
You just have to identify the relays.
Fuel pump I believe on the disco can be accessed under the little hatch under carpet.
Couple of bits of wire and a spare bulb and you can trace a lot. Or a cheap DMM from diy store.
Guys here will help @discool will keep you right on where to check I am sure
J
It is mate don’t beat yourself down.
Step by step you can get there.
I take it you have a manual?
J
Shippers
Well-Known Member
We all had to start at the beginning...a digital multi meter is cheap and easy to use...advise on here if needed...
just for clarification have you actually checked for a spark at the plugs I know you say there's no supply at coil even after a supply from battery which is odd... things don't seem to add up..
Got a Rave download manual, electrical troubleshooting etc etc. Trouble is vehicle is confused changeover model. 1999 T reg Discovery 1. Not sure if originally T reg as was on private plates for a while but is def a D1. Going back to my Series 3 it's easier!!!It is mate don’t beat yourself down.
Step by step you can get there.
I take it you have a manual?
J
