gstuart said:
many thks, oh wow indeed u would have thought it would at least give a splutter spraying in the throttle body

apologises as didn’t see that bit in the thread , certainly a head scratcher

assume ur Map sensor was clean as I know they can block up solid

suppose the other thing is I wonder if the crankshaft position sensor has fsiled ? seeing u checked the fuel pump belt and pressures at the test point at the back of the engine

just trying to rack my brains of what could be stopping it from starting , also assume the red alarm flashing night isn’t on , daft question but have u also tried ur spare key

dam im waffling again, lol , lastly have u cleared all the codes and then rescanned it plse , fingers crossed is a simple fix and nothing too serious
Click to expand...
Yea I removed Map and cleaned the mountain of black crud off it. Crank sensor working as gives live data while cranking. Immobiliser all working, light goes out, but only have one key unfortunately.
Cleared all codes and nothing comes back as I assume it needs to run to generate more codes.
Yeah you guys took me through the paces and I'm at the limit with my equipment so passed it down the line for now.
If it can be fixed for sensible money then great, if not I only paid a few hundred for it so would get that back on it.
Tbh the more of these I see advertised with shot engines, the less I want one. 😬🤣
 
charlie@autoworxengineeri said:
Yea I removed Map and cleaned the mountain of black crud off it. Crank sensor working as gives live data while cranking. Immobiliser all working, light goes out, but only have one key unfortunately.
Cleared all codes and nothing comes back as I assume it needs to run to generate more codes.
Yeah you guys took me through the paces and I'm at the limit with my equipment so passed it down the line for now.
If it can be fixed for sensible money then great, if not I only paid a few hundred for it so would get that back on it.
Tbh the more of these I see advertised with shot engines, the less I want one. 😬🤣
Click to expand...
Many thks , out of curiosity where abouts are u plse as in what county , maybe someone near u has a bigger scanner unless u was using ones that garages also use

shame u haven’t got to drive it yet as indeed they really do drive extremly well and very comfortable

have U tested the canbus as well with a multimeter plse , once again sorry if you’ve already done that ,just trying to think of things that can be tested

did u also try removing the top air inlet ducting and spraying some easy start down there plse , or put a camera to the turbo to ensure it’s clear , have known people put a rag in the inlet , forget and crank the engine over and sucks it into the turbo blocking it off

theres also earths connections that are behind the passenger side wheel arch liner that are used by the ECM and a TCM for there 5 Vdc supply voltage, have u also had ur ECM module out to ensure the contacts are all ok

know I’m clutching at straws with me waffling , just a thought
 
gstuart said:
Many thks , out of curiosity where abouts are u plse as in what county , maybe someone near u has a bigger scanner unless u was using ones that garages also use

shame u haven’t got to drive it yet as indeed they really do drive extremly well and very comfortable

have U tested the canbus as well with a multimeter plse , once again sorry if you’ve already done that ,just trying to think of things that can be tested

did u also try removing the top air inlet ducting and spraying some easy start down there plse , or put a camera to the turbo to ensure it’s clear , have known people put a rag in the inlet , forget and crank the engine over and sucks it into the turbo blocking it off

theres also earths connections that are behind the passenger side wheel arch liner that are used by the ECM and a TCM for there 5 Vdc supply voltage, have u also had ur ECM module out to ensure the contacts are all ok

know I’m clutching at straws with me waffling , just a thought
Click to expand...
That's fine, appreciate your input. I'm in East Devon. Tbh I've passed it onto a trustworthy garage now so I'm just waiting to see what they can find, but I will pass on this extra info. Cheers
 
charlie@autoworxengineeri said:
That's fine, appreciate your input. I'm in East Devon. Tbh I've passed it onto a trustworthy garage now so I'm just waiting to see what they can find, but I will pass on this extra info. Cheers
Click to expand...

ur so welcome , alas I’m in Kent and have a decent Autel scanner so would have plugged that in FOC for u

indeed will be interesting to see what the garage says , fingers crossed it’s a simple fix

plse let us know how u get on
 
gstuart said:
ur so welcome , alas I’m in Kent and have a decent Autel scanner so would have plugged that in FOC for u

indeed will be interesting to see what the garage says , fingers crossed it’s a simple fix

plse let us know how u get on
Click to expand...
Yeah shame but thanks. I only have Snap On Ethos as I restore classics so only really have it for my own cars.
 
charlie@autoworxengineeri said:
Yeah shame but thanks. I only have Snap On Ethos as I restore classics so only really have it for my own cars.
Click to expand...

Ur so very welcome , alas not much help really, awesome mate and would adore to see some piccies plse, maybe do a new thread as I imagine many others would also find it interesting

know when I had wiring issues on mine it took me weeks to finally pin it down to a bad wire on one connector, other time was a simple earth that the TCM and ECM uses , very satisfying resolving the issue

Really enjoy doing fault finding , yeh I know I need to get out more , or head examined, lol

bet I can’t wait to get it fixed and back on the road , look forward to the outcome plse
 
gstuart said:
Ur so very welcome , alas not much help really, awesome mate and would adore to see some piccies plse, maybe do a new thread as I imagine many others would also find it interesting

know when I had wiring issues on mine it took me weeks to finally pin it down to a bad wire on one connector, other time was a simple earth that the TCM and ECM uses , very satisfying resolving the issue

Really enjoy doing fault finding , yeh I know I need to get out more , or head examined, lol

bet I can’t wait to get it fixed and back on the road , look forward to the outcome plse
Click to expand...
Ha, yes I'm the same. I have a 1979 VW pickup with a BMW 4.8 V8 mid mounted and did all the wiring for that, which I actually enjoyed.
I'll try and work out how to.put some pics up.
 

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My son went to have a look at a mates L319 with similar symptoms - cut out whilst driving, turning over, not firing, Easy-start making no difference... he found the oil filter completely blocked (the guy only bought the car 2 weeks ago as a private sale) and 'sucked in' and the fuel bleed-off pipe melted in the vicinity of the oil filter where the fuel temperature sensor is...
The plan is to change the bleed-off pipe, oil filter & oil in case the lack of oil pressure was causing a lack of oil feed to the camshaft follower compensators, in turn causing a lack of compression. The suspicion is though, the engine has 'cooked', unless the pipes have melted due to the heat in the oil filter housing caused by the restriction.
 
Graculus said:
My son went to have a look at a mates L319 with similar symptoms - cut out whilst driving, turning over, not firing, Easy-start making no difference... he found the oil filter completely blocked (the guy only bought the car 2 weeks ago as a private sale) and 'sucked in' and the fuel bleed-off pipe melted in the vicinity of the oil filter where the fuel temperature sensor is...
The plan is to change the bleed-off pipe, oil filter & oil in case the lack of oil pressure was causing a lack of oil feed to the camshaft follower compensators, in turn causing a lack of compression. The suspicion is though, the engine has 'cooked', unless the pipes have melted due to the heat in the oil filter housing caused by the restriction.
Click to expand...
Low oil pressure to the cams won't stop it starting. The bleed off lines are at 10 bar of pressure, so only exact replacements can be used, but they're not likely to stop it starting unless they're not holding pressure.
 
Bleed-off isn't at 10bar, maybe 1.0bar - in any case, it had melted so wouldn't hold pressure, whatever it is. Ever done a leak off test? I can assure you the injectors do not pass 10bar back to the return line, it's a drip or slow stream depending on the condition of the injector. Adding them all together with the output of the PCV will not generate 10bar in the return line without there being a blockage or restriction. I agree about the oil pressure in the compensating elements, however, if there has been some overheating causing bore wear, then it may just make the difference between starting or not.

I haven't seen the vehicle, it's first impressions based upon a brief visual inspection of items that need rectification before further diagnosis, that's all.
 
Graculus said:
Bleed-off isn't at 10bar, maybe 1.0bar - in any case, it had melted so wouldn't hold pressure, whatever it is. Ever done a leak off test? I can assure you the injectors do not pass 10bar back to the return line, it's a drip or slow stream depending on the condition of the injector. Adding them all together with the output of the PCV will not generate 10bar in the return line without there being a blockage or restriction. I agree about the oil pressure in the compensating elements, however, if there has been some overheating causing bore wear, then it may just make the difference between starting or not.

I haven't seen the vehicle, it's first impressions based upon a brief visual inspection of items that need rectification before further diagnosis, that's all.
Click to expand...
So the garage have just had a look at it and said the fuel presure is way too high so engine is shutting down. Its over 1000bar on cranking. He reckons its a fuel suction control valve. Luckily my friend breaks these and has a complete pump from a knocky engine so going to drop that over and see what can be done. But it looks hopeful as he says it pretty much runs if you crack the pipes to bleed some pressure off it. 😁
 
charlie@autoworxengineeri said:
So the garage have just had a look at it and said the fuel presure is way too high so engine is shutting down. Its over 1000bar on cranking. He reckons its a fuel suction control valve. Luckily my friend breaks these and has a complete pump from a knocky engine so going to drop that over and see what can be done. But it looks hopeful as he says it pretty much runs if you crack the pipes to bleed some pressure off it. 😁
Click to expand...
Looking forward to result:)
Mine topped out on 47000kpa-540000kpa
 
charlie@autoworxengineeri said:
So the garage have just had a look at it and said the fuel presure is way too high so engine is shutting down. Its over 1000bar on cranking. He reckons its a fuel suction control valve. Luckily my friend breaks these and has a complete pump from a knocky engine so going to drop that over and see what can be done. But it looks hopeful as he says it pretty much runs if you crack the pipes to bleed some pressure off it. 😁
Click to expand...
1000bar on cranking is pretty damned impressive!
Most common rail need 200 bar to start.
 
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