Is yours a manual? The sidelight warning light should illuminate each time the key is turned when entering the eka code if it does then the input is being sent to the BECM.are you entering the eka correctly?I believe @DanClarke did a guide.
yes its a 97 manual diesel, followed the procedures from the owners manual and it does nothing but does not display anything on the dash ie engine disabled or key lock out its only in the engine ecu itself
 
yes its a 97 manual diesel, followed the procedures from the owners manual and it does nothing but does not display anything on the dash ie engine disabled or key lock out its only in the engine ecu itself
Get someone to sit in and see if the sidelight warning light illuminates when you turn the key.
 
No mate the side light warning light on the dash.;):D
pmsl :D:D:D:D

200.gif
 
Is yours a manual? The sidelight warning light should illuminate each time the key is turned when entering the eka code if it does then the input is being sent to the BECM.are you entering the eka correctly?I believe @DanClarke did a guide.
Sidelight-repeaters OR Dashboard (BeCM option) tells you the key-turns are being seen.
Guide is attached.
 

Attachments

  • EKA Entry process.pdf
    546.7 KB · Views: 156
yes its a 97 manual diesel, followed the procedures from the owners manual and it does nothing but does not display anything on the dash ie engine disabled or key lock out its only in the engine ecu itself

The microswitches that activate the central locking all need to be working as it uses them to detect what the key is doing. If you have the old RF receiver it may have burn one or more out (might just be unplugged hence fob not working).

If you put the window down and move the sill button along with the key it might help.
 
Cheers chaps , will have a another look into it later , think I definitely need to invest in a nanocom , especially owning 2 p38's the scanner I have has been ok ish but the lack of features compared to a nanocom has certainly let me down on this occasion
 
Cheers chaps , will have a another look into it later , think I definitely need to invest in a nanocom , especially owning 2 p38's the scanner I have has been ok ish but the lack of features compared to a nanocom has certainly let me down on this occasion
It may also be worth checking the block connectors at the bottom of the A posts, behind the trims, for corrosion.
 
It may also be worth checking the block connectors at the bottom of the A posts, behind the trims, for corrosion.
The passenger side ones I've removed the plugs and used heat shrink connectors still have the drivers side to do as they are starting to go but all the connections seemed ok still
 
  • +1 on check the microswitches with a meter - if any are bad this can cause issues.
  • Do all the windows work - if yes then door outstation is communicating with BECM & same data lines are used for security communications.
  • Check RF Receiver as suggested - it might need plugging in to re-sync the key.
  • Without a Nanocom you have no way of knowing if EKA is enabled or not. Even if it is on, there's options for light flash or beeps when turning the key.
 
The microswitches that activate the central locking all need to be working as it uses them to detect what the key is doing. If you have the old RF receiver it may have burn one or more out (might just be unplugged hence fob not working).

If you put the window down and move the sill button along with the key it might help.
The door lock motor burns, not the micro switches.
 
If it's not asking for EKA, it's just down to needing a signal from the FOB to tell the BECM to send the mobilisation code.
As others have said, check the RF receiver is connected.
 
Yes. Centre microswitch also tends to burn out but more likely from boot button earthing through it.
That maybe true although I have not seen it, the switch does not switch the current just provides a path for the boot button. The trouble IMO is that the actuator button on the micro switch fails so it doesn't always fully transfer.
 
i got to have another look at it again have chopped out the plug in the drivers side pillar so both sides now have good connections , i took the rear apart and the rf receiver was still plugged in , but key still wont sync , the central locking seems to work as it should ,doesn't show a disabled message on the dash but still shows code 27 anti theft in the engine ecu via diagnostics, have run through all the fuses again and all seem good , have noticed that the fuse box does smell like its got warm at some point tho
 

Similar threads