Fuse box update. On taking cover off smells very slightly of electrical burning. Component D1 is black burnt possibly a diode or resistor. It's just below Relay 2. Relay 7 has a burnt and slightly wobbly terminal. I believe this is to do with blower motors and is common fault. Large fuses MF2 and 3 have scorched blades.
Fairly sure D1 is a diode to do with alternator not too worried about it and its not wobbly so hoping it is still soldered in. Relay 7 is not too much of a concern as not worried about blowers at moment. MF2 seems to be starter so not surprised it's scorched a bit. MF3 seems to be ABS related so not too worried about that. Wish I could find fuse box lid have miss placed it somewhere.
Does this all sound correct? Main relay terminals look ok. Am going to refit and see what happens with charged battery
Does this all sound correct? Main relay terminals look ok. Am going to refit and see what happens with charged battery
Fuse box is back in. Battery very discharged so very possibly the root of all my problems when you take it consideration it's meagre capabilities even when charged.
Hopefully will have it back on by around 1700hrs ready for a check. Still not checked ECU for feed yet so will do if it does not sync.
Hopefully will have it back on by around 1700hrs ready for a check. Still not checked ECU for feed yet so will do if it does not sync.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Replace the fusebox. On the diesel, the diodes operate the fuel pump relay on cranking and when the alternator starts charging, if the petrol is the same your pump may not run if the diode is cooked. Diodes do not respond well to serious overheating.
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Battery was not in deep discharge according to my charger but it is still not charged up after a full day. Don't want to try it partially charged so probably going to leave it on over night. Will update once tried it with a re-sync. Obviously do have some problems inside fuse box even if it's not effecting starting so think I will order a replacement. Quite possibly the diode is preventing full pressure from pump but I have no spark either which points to it being immobilised I think. Same thing happened to my 350Z couple years ago and took me while to realise key had dropped code.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
A duff fuse box can play havoc with all sorts of thing for which the BECM often gets the blame.
Battery back on. Engine check light does not come on at all now which is what happened originally. Won't crank or attempt. Again this was situation for first 30 minutes or so after problem first occurred. When I press down on main relay it clicks rapidly and a clicking comes from near the throttle linkage. Re-sync tool does not work still. Can't check ECU power as multimeter is knackered.
Have established I have a dodgy battery and fuse box so ordering replacements. My keys did not work on fob until after I put them into ignition and turned so I guess this is the friendly sync working for the fobs.
Have established I have a dodgy battery and fuse box so ordering replacements. My keys did not work on fob until after I put them into ignition and turned so I guess this is the friendly sync working for the fobs.
Lock will only register first turn to right with a flash after that does not pick up subsequent turns. I believe the 98 model uses a coil in the ignition to communicate with transponder in the key. This seems to be working as key fobs started working again after replacing battery in car and ptting key in ignition
Tried 4 turns to left first which it registers though bit hit and miss. Will only ever register first turn to right.
The central locking works off key fob still although passenger door lock has to be operated manually. Operating the passenger lock does activate all the other locks though.
Tried 4 turns to left first which it registers though bit hit and miss. Will only ever register first turn to right.
The central locking works off key fob still although passenger door lock has to be operated manually. Operating the passenger lock does activate all the other locks though.
I'm not sure it beeps or flashes to register key turns when entering the EKA. It locks and unlocks on the first turn of each number of course!
Whenever I've had to do it, I've not bothered listening out for beeps or looking for flashes, just gone 4 turns to lock first, and then carefully entered the code.
Your car does have lazy sync, but it won't sync the key unless the alarm is off first! If you can unlock the doors with the fob though, it's working like it should.
As you put your key in the ignition barrel you can usually see the LED on the fob flash, this is the fob being read (and sync'd) by the coil in the ignition.
Whenever I've had to do it, I've not bothered listening out for beeps or looking for flashes, just gone 4 turns to lock first, and then carefully entered the code.
Your car does have lazy sync, but it won't sync the key unless the alarm is off first! If you can unlock the doors with the fob though, it's working like it should.
As you put your key in the ignition barrel you can usually see the LED on the fob flash, this is the fob being read (and sync'd) by the coil in the ignition.
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Yes that is happening. When I turn left it does not flash light every time so have to sometimes do few extra turns till it flashes. Turning right only ever flashes on first turn. Have read it should flash every time so probably a faulty switch in lock.
As you say fob's do work so fairly confident am synced as far as key to BeCM. Re-sync tool can't communicate with car though and not checked if ECU is getting power yet as multi meter needs replacing. Off to parents this weekend where I have spare one.
With key in position 2 if I push down on main relay it clicks away erratically so possibly bad connection in the circuit board.
As you say fob's do work so fairly confident am synced as far as key to BeCM. Re-sync tool can't communicate with car though and not checked if ECU is getting power yet as multi meter needs replacing. Off to parents this weekend where I have spare one.
With key in position 2 if I push down on main relay it clicks away erratically so possibly bad connection in the circuit board.
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