It is from the block casting process.....Oooh nasty. There's obviously not a lot worse than your old rusty rear core plug weeping rusty water! Potential catastrophe with a 300Tdi. What purpose does it serve? Access? From casting?
It is from the block casting process.....Oooh nasty. There's obviously not a lot worse than your old rusty rear core plug weeping rusty water! Potential catastrophe with a 300Tdi. What purpose does it serve? Access? From casting?
That's worth replacing while I'm on then. Are they just an interference fit?It is from the block casting process.....
yes clean hole apply some loctite stud lock to the outer edge of plug ,then using a socket slightly smaller han the inner diameter tap it home with the edge slightly below block surface, pressure on the center of plug makes outer edge/rim of plug push against the sides of holeThat's worth replacing while I'm on then. Are they just an interference fit?
I'd do all of them if you are going to do them at all....That's worth replacing while I'm on then. Are they just an interference fit?
Ok, James. That sounds good. As I said earlier, lots to learn. I'm sure I'll have loads of questions as I go along.yes clean hole apply some loctite stud lock to the outer edge of plug ,then using a socket slightly smaller han the inner diameter tap it home with the edge slightly below block surface, pressure on the center of plug makes outer edge/rim of plug push against the sides of hole
I take it they are all the same diameter and so the same part number?I'd do all of them if you are going to do them at all....
There is one on the rear, 3 down the side and one under the water pump housing....
Using a drift, hammer one side of the plug to rotate it round, then pull it out with some pliers.
Clean the aperture with some emery paper or similar
Then using a bit of RTV sealant, bearing lock or stud/thread lock around the rim of the new core plug....put it in the aperture, then either using a large socket that fits the core plug rim (idealy - I used a large socket that fit the inside of the plug as best as possible) and tap the plug home. they are an interference fit, and the sealant helps to ... well...seal it! Some get away without the need for sealant, but it is best to use it in anycase. The plug should sit just recessed into the block.
The one above is the one behind the water pump....the one below is the rear core plug...
And the 3 down the side.....
Yep..... ERC4996I take it they are all the same diameter and so the same part number?
the ones you worry about are like your rear erc4996, 1 at the rear 3 down the side 1 at the front but i wouldnt worry about that yet as it can be done with engine in situI take it they are all the same diameter and so the same part number?
Absolutely!No probs, thats what makes LZ the best LR forum - the knowledge, help, advice and friendship.....many of us (me included) may have given up on LR ownership if it wasn't for the help on here.!!!
Super easy then!?!An army mechanic I know says they use a 15mm long socket on an extension bar to line clutches up.
An army mechanic I know says they use a 15mm long socket on an extension bar to line clutches up.
That's what I used, But don't be deceived and do it quickly it can't be stressed enough how frustration it is struggling with the engine on the crane trying to get the input shaft into the clutch plate and pilot bearing that are just fractionally out of line.An army mechanic I know says they use a 15mm long socket on an extension bar to line clutches up.