Champion. I'll do the same.
Lots to learn, but I'm looking forward to it. Looking forward to a refreshed engine too!
Lots to learn, but I'm looking forward to it. Looking forward to a refreshed engine too!
Needed shortening anyway
I've remembered an aluminium tube, of a similar diameter, I kept from an old roller blind. Got a few things to try 
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
I used a double depth socket, the outside diameter was 22.12mm and that fitted the new spigot bush nicely, I used adhesive aluminium tape to increase the diameter of other end of the socket to fit the clutch (using trial and error).Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tape
I'll hopefully be taking the clutch off tomorrow. I've ordered some M10 and M8 bolts which should arrive tomorrow. All going well, I'll get it on the engine stand and in to the garage ready for the strip down.
Cheers, Kwakerman. Another nifty idea to have up my sleeve.
More thoughts.
It's amazing how time flies. My clutch fork did the old punch through the pivot cup trick, I thought about 5 years ago. Looked up the invoice and it was back in July 2007
The clutch fork looks new in the picture, but it's 10yrs old. the part number is a G suffix FTC2957G I'll look it up and see if it is one of the strong ones. It would have had about 105K miles on the clock about then, so the current clutch has done 75K. I might as well change that too. And the release bearing?
Just says OEM on the Paddocks site.
neilly
Well-Known Member
If you mean a HD version clutch fork, does it have the welded plate over it? if not then it is only the plain jane version.
Cheers
While the engine is out, it is best to replace the parts that will seldom see the light of day again......release arm, release bearing, slippers, staple, plastic slave rod clip on the release arm.....you could even go the whole hog and do the clutch, the release arm pivot and rod.
No it doesn't.
As the original punched through at approx 105K then it's time for a new one at 180K
Just looking at this http://www.paddockspares.com/ftc2957hd-heavy-duty-clutch-release-fork.html
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
a good time to look at the rear core plug
Steady on, James. Titter ye not at my engine problems.
I'll have to look some of those up. Slippers!
Slippers are the little pads on the release arm that attach to the release bearing!Steady on, James. Titter ye not at my engine problems.
I'll have to look some of those up. Slippers!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
often just slight rust spotsWhat does a poorly rear core plug look like?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
nope
,
This was mine.....What does a poorly rear core plug look like?
Doesn't look too bad from the outside (aside from the water leak and rust marks) but on the inside it was rusted to heck and held up to the light you can clearly see the perferations!
Damn, it's not funny then.nope
When the fork went (10 yrs ago
) I got the local LR Indi to replace it and told them to do the clutch while in there. This is the list of parts:rear main oil seal
rear main oil seal gasket
spigot bush
clutch kit
release arm
clutch fork cup
clutch staple
Last edited:
This was mine.....
Doesn't look too bad from the outside (aside from the water leak and rust marks) but on the inside it was rusted to heck and held up to the light you can clearly see the perferations!
Oooh nasty. There's obviously not a lot worse than your old rusty rear core plug weeping rusty water!
Potential catastrophe with a 300Tdi. What purpose does it serve? Access? From casting?
