Thanks James, I'll give that a go. I've taken the nuts off the bottom of each engine mount and been lifting the engine up and down hoping it would crack open. I'll take the mounts off altogether. That'll give me a lot more room to swing the engine.
Never thought of that 
Cheers, James.
Missed the one tucked up against the clutch slave cylinder housing. 
I thought there was more chain with the crane I borrowed. The rope was all I had. There are a lot of rope loops through there and I kept a very close eye on it
I thought there was more chain with the crane I borrowed. The rope was all I had. There are a lot of rope loops through there and I kept a very close eye on it
Good work chap - I missed on bolt too...same place!Cheers, James.
I've got it out! I discovered that there are 13 studs and bolts and not 12
Now how on earth do I bolt it to the engine stand! What else needs to come off?
It was surprisingly stable, I used a ratchet strap as it was biased to falling onto the FIP side of the engine as it overhangs the centreline ofthe block and tends to fall that way.
Just been doing the clutch on mine, looking at the manual it says 14 fasteners, spent ages trying to figure out where the 14th one was. Concluded there was only 13 like you found out (and I counted on your pic above)!Cheers, James.
I've got it out! I discovered that there are 13 studs and bolts and not 12
Yep, by far the longest single item on my engine removal was one bolt, took me the best part of an hour.Must be a typo.
These things take loads of time though.
I spent about an hour or more on the top nut.
Must admit all mine came off without any issue, did you use a 12 point socket by any chance and round it off? I used a 15mm impact socket (6 sided) and 10 inch long extension bar and it just reached fine. I imagine cutting the nut with engine and gearbox still installed must have been interestingMust be a typo.
These things take loads of time though.
I spent about an hour or more on the top nut.
I bought a 15mm, 6 sided socket especially for the job. Very top bell housing nut was already rounded though. The new socket couldn't get it either, so I took the blade out of a junior hacksaw and cut the side off the nut, just skimming the stud. I was lucky and got it spot on. Though the bonnet was off and I right foot on the passenger side engine mount and my head down between the engine and bulkhead. Only took an hourMust admit all mine came off without any issue, did you use a 12 point socket by any chance and round it off? I used a 15mm impact socket (6 sided) and 10 inch long extension bar and it just reached fine. I imagine cutting the nut with engine and gearbox still installed must have been interesting
It wasn't going to win though. All the others came off quite easily. Just missed the one beside the clutch slave cylinder. Once that one was off the engine and box came apart no bother. Next day I could feel the muscles across the top of my shoulders and back a bit
Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tapeBefore you remove the clutch components, make sure you have a way of re-centralising the friction plate - using the correct locating tool/pin, a clutch centralising tool or like I did, a tube wrapped in electrical tape to the correct internal diameters of the spigot bush and the friction plate splines
Sorry I don't know the specific dims.Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tape
I'll hopefully be taking the clutch off tomorrow. I've ordered some M10 and M8 bolts which should arrive tomorrow. All going well, I'll get it on the engine stand and in to the garage ready for the strip down.
