jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the rear main cap joins tend to leak and have long been a land rover engine issue ,hence 200tdi large gasket that covers the entire rear of block rear housing covers , and that gasket fro the 300 rear seal ie it covers the joins at the rear but you need to ensure sealant for the sump covers bottom joins
Cheers, Marmaduke. Great tip, but I've already drained the coolant (JM told me about the drain plug) when I took the head off. Was thinking it was a head gasket, but turned out to be worse,Remove the drain plug on the exhaust side of the block to drain any coolant, crack all the head bolts in turn a bit at a time and get loads of old towel and rags ready cos it'll drip for days when you take the sump offAs my drive will testify
The Mrs has said I can have a few old bed sheets to go on the garage floor. The drive is already in a hell of a state!
You're right and I haven't yet. Bad preparation
neilly
Well-Known Member
If you have a eurocarparts or GSF near you then buy Brake cleaner by the 5 ltr, also their spray cans are pretty good value, every week there are codes to buy it cheap on line or even get a washing up bowl filled with Diesel and a brush. I keep a couple of washing up bowls to use for drainage and holding parts.
Blue paper towel, do a search, I got a load from homebase last time, Get a lot as you will use it.....LOL.
Gloves , mechanics gloves are a good buy, I normally get 24prs for £12 on the bay.
Cheers
Blue paper towel, do a search, I got a load from homebase last time, Get a lot as you will use it.....LOL.
Gloves , mechanics gloves are a good buy, I normally get 24prs for £12 on the bay.
Cheers
I'll Google my nearest Eurocarparts and GSF. I don't have a spray can for the cleaner, so that's a great idea. Cheap washing up bowls too
Cheers, neilly.
Right, stupid question that. Ignore that post.
Agreed 100%.
If you take the FIP off - take the pulley off the center boss ( held on by a 24mm (?) nut and held on the taper of the FIP shaft) - DON'T undo the nut and take the boss off - you'll loose static timing. See the diag below...No issue - but you'll need a DTI to reset it, and its work you don't need. .
In the above diag, if you remove the three bolts number 18, then the pulley number 16 will come orft... FIP will, after removing the nuts which hold it, then come out of timing cover from behind, revealing the gasket - which might be kaput.... so more bits for you shopping list... maybe...
Cos I've never done this before.
Agreed 100%.
If you take the FIP off - take the pulley off the center boss ( held on by a 24mm (?) nut and held on the taper of the FIP shaft) - DON'T undo the nut and take the boss off - you'll loose static timing. See the diag below...No issue - but you'll need a DTI to reset it, and its work you don't need. .
View attachment 120603
In the above diag, if you remove the three bolts number 18, then the pulley number 16 will come orft... FIP will, after removing the nuts which hold it, then come out of timing cover from behind, revealing the gasket - which might be kaput.... so more bits for you shopping list... maybe...
Thanks for the posts gentlemen. Lesson learnt there just in time, though my improvised crank pulley tool hasn't worked,
I had loosened the three nuts that hold the FIP on and the ones to the bracket on tot he block. Realised I couldn't take it off because it was still connected to the timing belt. Put the nuts back on.
Now I'm reading your posts I'm realising that the FIP will just stay connected to the timing belt housing and come away with that, is that right?
Yep, spot on! ( saves the gasket too !).
Champion. I did have it loose on the three studs, will the static timing still be ok?
