Al2O3 said:
Champion. I did have it loose on the three studs, will the static timing still be ok? :eek:
Click to expand...

If you mean you had the FIP loose on the timing case studs? then yep, no problem. :)

Static timing will only be changed by moving the boss on the FIP "input" shaft - which means the shaft can move with respect to the slot in the boss which exists for the pump locking pin.
 
Disco1BFG said:
If you mean you had the FIP loose on the timing case studs? then yep, no problem. :)

Static timing will only be changed by moving the boss on the FIP "input" shaft - which means the shaft can move with respect to the slot in the boss which exists for the pump locking pin.
Click to expand...
Phew! :D

I've accepted that the crank nut has defeated me this weekend.
The improvised pulley holding tool just wasn't up to the job.
It's a length of shelf holding angle with two holes drilled through to take M8 bolts (tried one bolt first - no way good enough). The shelf angle went down to the garage floor to brace the pulley. Seemed like a great idea at the time. I'd bought the right sized socket so thought I was laughing. Shocking the socket via the extension bar (not ratchet) did get me anywhere, so I tried the breaker bar. This just bent the bolts.
IMG_5950_zps7tsdfpa5.jpg

I'll buy a proper holding tool. Looking at this EBAY LINKY There's a more expensive one similar to the one Saint.V8 made, but that should work won't it? Anyone tried one of those?
I presume the bolt will be loctited in too?

Before packing up I thought I'd investigate the head where number 4 cylinder was running hot.
IMG_5952_zpsuonz69pw.jpg

There's a fair bit of piston alloy deposited on the surface of the valves.
Took the valves out.
Exhaust on the left inlet on the right.
IMG_5954_zpstekymmxj.jpg

A picture of the seats.
IMG_5953_zpsb4ebbg8r.jpg


I could feel a tiny bit of movement of the valves in the guides. I suppose this is to be expected at 180K
What would be my best way forward. New valve guides and get the seat machined? How much machining can be done on the seats? I know I could get some grinding paste and use the valve, but don't know if this will be enough?
 
The offer of borrowing my crank holding tool is still their if you need mate.
No experience of the one you linked as they wasn't about when I bought mine.
 
Given Aaron's fine and kind offer - I'd be taking him up on that... and save yourself the money for now.... ( buy one later if you feel the need... )

I think you mentioned getting a local machine shop to do the rebore ? Can they re-cut the seats, which from the photo don't look bad (?).

New genuine guides ( LGJ100880G ) are only 99p each from craddocks, so I'd replace them "automatically" at that mileage - and then get the machine shop to press the guides in and then re-cut the seats - though I reckon they might just need a tickle, rather than a full re-cut. Give the valve stems a once over as well - they might be fine; turners have new at a bit less than £6 each.... so ????

I don't know the seat limits off the top of my head - but it'll be in the rebuild manual, which is here:-

http://landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf

Don't forget new stem seals as well !!
 
aaronmorris said:
The offer of borrowing my crank holding tool is still their if you need mate.
No experience of the one you linked as they wasn't about when I bought mine.
Click to expand...
You're a star Aaron. I might take you up on it. I'll need it for a fair while, so will you be needing it soon?

Disco1BFG said:
Given Aaron's fine and kind offer - I'd be taking him up on that... and save yourself the money for now.... ( buy one later if you feel the need... )

I think you mentioned getting a local machine shop to do the rebore ? Can they re-cut the seats, which from the photo don't look bad (?).

New genuine guides ( LGJ100880G ) are only 99p each from craddocks, so I'd replace them "automatically" at that mileage - and then get the machine shop to press the guides in and then re-cut the seats - though I reckon they might just need a tickle, rather than a full re-cut. Give the valve stems a once over as well - they might be fine; turners have new at a bit less than £6 each.... so ????

I don't know the seat limits off the top of my head - but it'll be in the rebuild manual, which is here:-

http://landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf

Don't forget new stem seals as well !!
Click to expand...

Cheers, Disco1BFG. That's what I'll do. I'll get a new set of valves and and seals too. The place I've found in Newcastle is an engine reconditioning services, so will be able to press the stems in and dress the valve seats.
 
Al2O3 said:
You're a star Aaron. I might take you up on it. I'll need it for a fair while, so will you be needing it soon?



Cheers, Disco1BFG. That's what I'll do. I'll get a new set of valves and and seals too. The place I've found in Newcastle is an engine reconditioning services, so will be able to press the stems in and dress the valve seats.
Click to expand...

It's no problem mate, I very rarely use it, I'd likely not use it again this year.
I'd rather help people if I can, it will only sit gathering dust anyhow.
 
Good to see you are making progress
I want to rebuild mine this year so will be looking for tips
 
greyhair said:
Good to see you are making progress
I want to rebuild mine this year so will be looking for tips
Click to expand...
Ha, ha. Well, I'm making a few mistakes and so learning a lot. I'll post warts and all on here, so you can avoid my mistakes. :)
I'm under a bit of time pressure, so it will be good to get it sorted ASAP. Having said that, it's not something you want to rush especially first time around. Bit of a pain really.
 
I'm making a list of parts for the engine rebuild. I might as well sort it out as best I can while I'm in there, but don't want to buy parts that aren;t needed.
Do valve springs get tired? I would presume so?
Valve cotters - I presume are re-usable?
Valve caps - I presume are re-usable?
I presume the camshaft bearings should be replaced?
Are there three different thrust washers? I presume these will need replacing?

I've got loads of questions :)

Should I be looking for a thread with all this listed in it? :rolleyes: Anyone know one and have a linky? Save me searching ;)
 
It's done 180 thousand, James.

I'm just looking at fuel injectors. I know my engine has just been carped by an injector going dodgy, but how often does that happen? New bosch ones are £100 each. So. I'm looking at £400 for a full set. Would you replace them all?
 
The injector must have been pretty hot.
IMG_5847_zpsagmdmf2r.jpg

There was very little sign of any of the holes in the end. Can they be saved quite often?
I'll do a google for fuel injector testing in Newcastle.
 
You can get replacement nozzles yourself - I have heard it is a simple replacement - @jamesmartin would you know if this is the case?
 
springs can wear but they are adjusted to make right,normally yoou replace nozzle and reset injector to correct crack off pressure
 
Refurbishing and testing sounds like a good option if the price is good too. It's a bit of a worry though given an injector going faulty looks like it caused this problem. Please tell me I'm being soft and the chances of it happening again are scarce. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Land Rover 300tdi clutch not disengaging after engine out
Replies
6
Views
658
Geckomike
G
currymunster
I suffered a Run away diesel
2 3 4
Replies
75
Views
6K
Anaconda
A
Ian Whitewick
Defender 200tdi refresh
Replies
1
Views
301
steve2286w
steve2286w
C
repairing bulkhead in situ
Replies
2
Views
240
ER1C
ER1C
P38 guy
P38 evap charcoal canister
Replies
2
Views
384
P38 guy
P38 guy