2002 freelander automatic, no reverse gear

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c5tukmr2

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Hi,

Looking for some help with my 52 plate TD4 freelander with auto tiptronic box, end of May my turbo went, drained engine of oil, few miles driving along motorway then one knackered engine.
Finally at start of september got a replacement engine and fitted by a mechanic a friend recommended, but after work was done, no reverse gear!!!:mad:

Reverse gear worked fine prior to old engine biting the dust.
When selecting reverse I can feel as though the gear has been selected(slight bump) but no power at all, engine will rev but no power, all forward gears work fine, select drive, and you can feel the same bump but with more power with gear being selected, foot off brake and away car goes as normal, but with reverse just the slight feeling that the gear has been selected, but nothing. Gearbox oil has been replaced.

Car lay idle for 3 months prior to replacement engine being fitted, anything perhaps just seized, and will release?
Or, not sure how gearbox works or power is actually delivered to the engine with automatic, but is there a chance engine and gearbox and engine not hooked up together properlly? Is power delivered just the same way between engine and gearbox regardless of gear selected, perhaps a problem with gearbox, but fault wasn't there previously.

Any help gratefully accepted

Thanks

Colin
 
No the jatco box determins the drive, ie if youve got forward you shuld have reverse. . . .mite have taken or lowerd g/box un ird to get engine out/in and gear selection special tool will be need to reset correct position. . . .take it back to garage for a check :)
 
Hi,

Would it be the selector cable that needs adjusted, I assume it's not the inhibitor switch that needs re-aligned with special tool, rectangle hole at one end and hole for pin at other. could you give more of a description what needs done.

Thanks

Colin
 
Jatco can do weird things if fluid level even slightly out...needs to be filled at certain temperature with specific fluid....would confirm thats right first before anything else.

Inhibitor switch would only prevent engine from starting if in gear...
 
I understand that there is a very simple way to screw up the JATCO box. There are two bolts on it that look like drain plug holes to check the oil level, the problem is that if you undo the wrong one a bit falls off inside you lose reverse and the only fix is to strip the box down. This was done at my local Landrover Garage to someone else's vehicle. I wonder if this is the problem with yours. If it is then have a look at

Ashcroft Transmissions and click on the technical information link.

Good luck Dennis
 
Hi,

I'm going to have a look at box, if this bolt had been removed and part fell inside, the bolt then would have nothing to tighten back onto, would i be right in saying that?, and that would make it obvious if the mechanic had removed it incorrectly?

If, bolt is ok, I'm going to do a fluid change, mechanic said he done that, but I'm a bit dubious if he used the correct fluid, and has done the correct procedure for refilling either.

Thanks

For the help so far

Colin
 
interesting post, I haven't had any error codes like an f4 and by the sounds of it I don't want to either, hoping it is just incorrect fluid level or possibly wrong gear box fluid
 
Hi Colin,
Did you sort the problem you had?:confused: I have the same problem no reverse Gear? Goes forward fine but just revs in reverse. Correct new oil and level?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jon
 
hi mate

i have the same problem in my xtype jag which uses a similar jatco gearbox which are CRAP i have just replaced it with another one and have this problem would appreciate it if you could let us know how you got on

cheers

MO

PS i have a range rover aswell which is F****D aswell
 
To check the oil level is correct on the Jatco you have to start from cold. Start the engine and watch the temp gauge on Land Rovers Test Book T4 software. When it reaches either 35 or 37 degree’s, can’t remember which, you then check the level on the computer. There is no level plug or dipstick to check it with.

The cost of a level check is £110 at a main dealer. The Freelander Jatco auto gear box oil is special. It’s AFT 402, also called LRN 402. What ever you do don’t use the Dextron stuff. The Proper Land Rover Jatco oil is specific to the Freelander Jatco, and said to be different in all others cars which use the same auto. The Freelander stuff is red and smells nice! Not all garages will be able to do this work for you.

I’ve had problems in the past with my v6 Jatco. You can get a main dealer to measure all the sensors in the auto, by using the 2 barrel plugs which connect all the electrical wires to the auto, above the front of the auto behind the radiators. This is done when cold, to check calibration of sensors. They will also be able to tell you which solenoid is faulty too.

If the bolt has been removed, then you have to strip apart the auto in order to fix the “no reverse gear” fault.

Warning: If the oil level is wrong, you’ll only end up stuffing the auto. The torque converter will cavitate if air gets in to it. I stuffed my auto. Mine was leaking and I wasn’t quick enough to realise. Got a large bill for a replacement reconditioned.

My advice is to stop driving the car if you have auto problems. Get a main dealer to do the above inspections. Then make a decision based on their results. You can always take the car somewhere else like ashcroft transmissions to replace the auto box if needed.
 
Chaser said:
:Cry: :Cry: :Cry:
Click to expand...
£110 is for 1 litre of auto oil at £10 per litre, plus 1 hour labour at £86 plus vat. Just looked it up. It’s checked at 35 degrees. A resistance diag is only 30 mins labour on top of this. I think I’ve got the spec somewhere. Will have a look.

resistance check = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A

My auto leaked from the side pan. Resealing this was an option, which failed. These days garages prefer to replace rather than repair auto’s. I was given the option and tried it. It didn’t work.

I then wrongly tried to keep topping it up myself, whilst it kept slowly leaking. This cost me around £2200 for a recon auto, fitted. If the oil is low, it will cavitate. That’s when you get air in the torque converter and naffs it up big time. Gear selection feels like someone’s driven in to you at 2 mph whilst stationary. If you over fill it, the oil will come out the breather pipe. Also you’ll blow all the seals. Hence you then need a replacement anyway. That’s a trick I did.

Costs vary between £1400 at independent garages, to £2200 at main dealers. That’s fitted, on the basis they take your old auto complete with torque converter. An example of an independent garage is the original post problem of no reverse gear. He must have looked for a filler, and took a guess.

I’m no mechanic. But if someone had of warned me what I was doing was going to cost me £2200, I would have stopped driving it and carried it to someone who knows how to diagnose them. Fare enough my story comes at face value. I wouldn’t try filling it again!

The only annoying thing is now the engine oil is leaking from between the auto and engine. Mines the v6. So to fix this the engines needs to come out again, and the auto taken off to get to the leak. And the cam belts due, but it’s only done 18k miles. Oh, and found out yesterday the rhs drive shaft is leaking where it goes in to the IRD.

As the song goes: “You’d cry too if it happened to you!”
 
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