because people always want something more. either way, the amount of power the engine has, or doesn't, doesn't really come into this. Were talking about why its overheating
Snap! My felt stuff on the underside of the bonnet bears the scar of my split rad as well.
Anyway, like you Geekfreek I also bought a digital infrared thermometer thingymabob. Its good and can help with diagnosis. Get measuring the two hoses too and from the rad, a sure sign of a problem with the rad is when you see two readings almost identical. I was in the high nineties on both sides with about a 1*C difference between the two if I remember correctly.
When I put the new rad in I never bothered testing the temps out again so I cant tell you what they 'should' be but I knew almost instantly my problem was fixed as when I started driving the needle didnt start sprinting its way to the 12 o'clock position.
Instead it gradually climbed up to just a bit under 12 (it was a very warm day when I got mine sorted) and then went back down as load was reduced on the engine, basically, it was back to how it used to be, the temp needle fluctuates with driving. For example, it was snowing here the other night, 0*C ambient temp, needle moved up to just into the white zone and stayed there all the time until I came to a hill,it then climbed a bit heading towards 12 and then dropped back off as I leveled out.
One sure way I could also tell I was DEF overheating (and it wasnt a temp sensor fault) was, with the A/C on and it being a warm day, sitting at traffic lights, needle started to creep up past 12. I immediately put the blower on HI both sides with full fan speed which slowed it down climbing a bit BUT as I pulled away I could really hear the viscous fan roaring, trying to pull as much air through as possible. Have you heard the fan really spinning up to try and keep it cool??
From what you have said, I think you are going to find you have a nasty cheap rad from Britpart, probably one of the same batch that I had. I would go ahead and order yourself a new genuine rad. If you have an auto DSE (sorry I dont know the exact correct part number for a manual DSE) the part number is PCC108470 and from my invoice its £220 + VAT. You may have to wait a few days to get one though, I know they didnt have any in stock when I wanted one, not even at the factory and they had to put it on back order. Meanwhile the LR dealer said did I want to try an aftermarket rad such as a Britpart one, I said NO!
If they cant get you one that easily (i.e: next day) then PM me and I will help you out a bit there as I ended up having to go a slightly non-conventional route to make sure I got one ASAP.
If you want to stick with your current rad for the moment and test it then this is the official procedure taken from the Tech Bulletin 26/02/96EN...
As I said I wouldnt even bother though, you have described practically all the symptoms I had. Get that cheap nasty part out of there and a genuine one in and then send the cheap rad back to where you got it from explaining the problem.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out, will be interesting to see!!
-Wills