Won't start after top end overhaul

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Key said:
Bit of an update but not getting anywhere.
To recap..
Had head skimmed and valves reseated by engine rebuilders,
Got another set of cylinder head bolts and another head gasket
Checked cam/valve timing and bang on
All valve clearances adjusted to 0.20mm using 1-8 4-5 etc
Head tightened correctly using 40nm, 60 degree's, 60 degree's, then 20 degrees on centre bolts with correct sequence.
Did another compression test through glow plug hole without manifolds or rocker cover on but with injectors and new seals clamped down and got the following results :
200,210,220,210
Now at least they are within the tolerances of each other but still way off.
My assumptions :
Has to be something that controls all four pistons as too much of a coincidence for piston rings to be worn that much at the same rate or had to be cracked internally across all four cylinders
Unless anyone can come up with a eureka moment I think a leak down test is the next move although can't find anyone at the moment who is mobile.
Saved this thing from the scrappers as it ran well but doesn't even do that now :(
Click to expand...

it will be something like timing ,injectors or pump ,worn bores or most things wouldnt stop it attempting to fire
 
I read somewhere that the oil in the bore doesn't work due to the oil sitting in the piston crown. Should I pour it down the glow plug hole? Another option I thought of was hiring this http://www.hss.com/g/68820/Pressure-Testers.html. Might be able to connect to compression adaptor to build up pressure in the cylinder and listen for air escaping. What do you think?
The bores looked ok just the usual 5mm crust around the rim and I'm not sure if the rebuilders pressure tested when they did their stuff although I would have thought they did. I'll ring them tomorrow.
 
Got gasket from other local supplier for £10 more but was the same anyway. Motor was running well before hand apart from oil leek from head gasket and tapping noise when warm and under load. Was pulling well in third up some steep hills before overhaul so wish had left alone now but I like things to be right.
 
Key said:
Got gasket from other local supplier for £10 more but was the same anyway. Motor was running well before hand apart from oil leek from head gasket and tapping noise when warm and under load. Was pulling well in third up some steep hills before overhaul so wish had left alone now but I like things to be right.
Click to expand...

overhaul ?
 
I have just thought, could the cam pulley be out of timing? Have you looked at the timing belt? It could be that the belt has slipped or something which has put the timing out. This could explain the poor compression values and would also explain how you can still set the valve clearances. When the engine is at TDC according to the valves, can you push a timing pin into the injector pump and can you see the timing mark on the flywheel?

Even if all that seems to line up, I would take off the timing chest cover and just have a look.
 
Already done that yesterday, took timing cover off and timing was spot on, flywheel mark locked in, woodruff key on crank at 12 o'clock and cam mark perfectly lined up with Mark on casing. Plus pump pin slides all the way in.
 
Key said:
Already done that yesterday, took timing cover off and timing was spot on, flywheel mark locked in, woodruff key on crank at 12 o'clock and cam mark perfectly lined up with Mark on casing. Plus pump pin slides all the way in.
Click to expand...

Burn it then and get a Pajero! :drum:

Or another engine... It's probably cost you more than a replacement engine would have anyway.
 
I ended up ringing a local independent with the view to paying for a mobile leak down test but he said that 200 psi compression when cold should be fine and to drag it down the road to get it started. Didn't have anyone to give me a tow so just kept turning it over whilst bleeding the air out of the fuel system. Anyway I ended up running flat 2 batteries but on the third and last one she started up :)
Took her for a spin and runs like a dream, loud tapping noise completely gone and pulls even better than before.
Think the loud tapping must have been the head gasket leaking as it was definitely seaping oil before.
Just out of interest and for my own piece of mind I got her up to temp and redid the compression test :
All four cylinders straight to 200 on first pump and then all topped out at 400 after 2-3 more.
Big sigh of relief and stupid dancing on the driveway!
Thanks for all the replies guys, now is time to teach myself how to weld ;)

By the way, starts on the button from cold every time now.
 
Sounds like you weren't getting fuel after all. Will be interesting to see what it's like after its been sat for a day or so.

Still, all good now which is excellent news. Well done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

spins
Cylinder Head Overhaul
Replies
6
Views
557
steve2286w
steve2286w
R
Freelander 1 Non start
Replies
9
Views
1K
Freddie17
Freddie17
Padda.116
300tdi disco 1, new head gasket oil leak!!
Replies
10
Views
632
Padda.116
Padda.116
W
2.4 tdci engine not starting after head gasket replacement
Replies
5
Views
922
Wizza
W
roule
OIl pump priming issue
Replies
11
Views
1K
roule
roule
Back
Top