Wolf style rim retrofit to 1983 110

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Awesome...thanks Dag...that covers the torque and a copy of the military one would be great as that would help cover the short stud issue, thanks again
 
When I fitted Wolf wheels to a 1993 110, I noticed some studs looked to have more nut engagement than others.
I then found 2 different thickness of nuts were on the vehicle.
I fitted genuine LR nuts and these all showed <1 thread of nut visible, so stud just about 1 millimetre short of being flush. My Wolf is pretty much the same, stud leaving 1mm inside nut visible.
If you are getting much more than that, are you using thicker/aftermarket nuts maybe?
 
When I fitted Wolf wheels to a 1993 110, I noticed some studs looked to have more nut engagement than others.
I then found 2 different thickness of nuts were on the vehicle.
I fitted genuine LR nuts and these all showed <1 thread of nut visible, so stud just about 1 millimetre short of being flush. My Wolf is pretty much the same, stud leaving 1mm inside nut visible.
If you are getting much more than that, are you using thicker/aftermarket nuts maybe?
Good point and I think your right. We have 2 different sets of nuts and there would be around 1 thread difference between them and after having a closer look on nut is a little longer in the body and has more of a taper to where the threads start. Both though engage onto the stud the same amount, ie: when you just start the nut onto the stud and then tighten it, you get 7 turns of the nut meaning it has engaged 1.5mm pitch x 7 turns = 10.5mm. It would be interesting to see how many turns you get for the nut to be tight. Ideally it should be around 16mm which is the stud diameter but with the higher torque only having 10.5mm of engagement is possibly fine. This is I guess what I'm trying to get some sort of technical buy off from, ideally from some sort of landrover derived thumbs up............I am way overthing this!
 
I did buy a set of wolf studs for my 90 and had these fitted in the summer. I had the same debate and erred on the side of caution by getting them. A set of pattern studs were around £45 on eBay including UK delivery. The MoD had a special bulletin issued showing it as acceptable to use standard studs if the wheel nuts were torqued up higher to take into account the shorter threads.
My view and path too, why not.? Mod bulletins are for folk in war planning not normal Rd usage.
 
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My view and path too, why not.? Mod bulletins are for folk in war planning not normal Rd usage.
So your saying just change the studs or the extra torque will be fine? I guess as we have a couple of sets to sell as well as the ones currently on my sons truck I just wanted some qualified reasoning to advise someone buying them that they need to or dont need to change the studs and also to reason with our WOF inspector that the shorter studs are fine if we choose to not change them for our wheels, to buy a set of longer studs here in New Zealand would be at least £100 fine if definitely needed but not so if not needed. Appreciate the input
 
Change the studs.......Its really not worth worrying about or debating..... Its like not changing a timing belt.... sure its fine and most will do over 100k but really........ There are some things its just not worth debating..... the nuts which hold your wheels on is one....
 
Change the studs.......Its really not worth worrying about or debating..... Its like not changing a timing belt.... sure its fine and most will do over 100k but really........ There are some things its just not worth debating..... the nuts which hold your wheels on is one....
Cheers for that, completely understand your reasoning .... guess I've just become a bit obsessed over the theory of whether the wheel is safely and securely fastened 3 threads short, I'm guessing it is but as you say if in doubt just swap them out and get on with it!
 
, to buy a set of longer studs here in New Zealand would be at least £100 fine if definitely needed but not so if not needed. Appreciate the inpu
The price is about the same here which is why the military did not want to do that and why most people do not either. Myself included. I run them on my series and my td5 neither of which have the longer studs both of which have the increased torque setting.
 
The price is about the same here which is why the military did not want to do that and why most people do not either. Myself included. I run them on my series and my td5 neither of which have the longer studs both of which have the increased torque setting.
Would you have as many threads in view as ours in the first photo...if you get really bored at some stage with nothing better to do...it would be good to know how many full turns you get out of the nut from very first engagement on the thread to fully tightened just as a comparison, we get 7 turns as mentioned previously which is about 2-3 threads exposed. Thx and enjoy your weekend
 
Would you have as many threads in view as ours in the first photo...if you get really bored at some stage with nothing better to do...it would be good to know how many full turns you get out of the nut from very first engagement on the thread to fully tightened just as a comparison, we get 7 turns as mentioned previously which is about 2-3 threads exposed. Thx and enjoy your weekend
I will try and remember to check the series when I am back in the country. In the mean time here are some pictures (blown up from other pics) of the td5 which looks like the the studs sit flush on the back and maybe one thread short on the front but they are the factory original studs and genuine tubeless HD rims.

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Below is my series 3 again with original studs which both front and back the studs are short and leave a couple Of threads of nut exposed. These are genuine tubes HD rims.

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I put wheel nut covers on mine
If you are worried about the “MOT” rather than the safety (as the safety is covered by the increased torque) you could always fit solid enclosed wheel nuts so the studs cannot be seen. Other than the fact you are on the other side the world, I have just removed a set you could have had as went back to standard on my project station wagon.

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There are three lengths of stud.
40(39), 45 and 60(56)mm.

I think the OP has the (40)39mm ones as they have a plain end ... ?

If so part number FRC6137 will get you closer.
 
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Is it just for the look that folk want the Wolf wheels? Standard Land Rover rims are plenty strong.
Gawd knows I have done my best to wreak them but only a couple have given in to Welsh coast rocks in Fifty years. :D
 
Is it just for the look that folk want the Wolf wheels? Standard Land Rover rims are plenty strong.
Gawd knows I have done my best to wreak them but only a couple have given in to Welsh coast rocks in Fifty years. :D
WOLF Wheels are HD.... there is an awesome picture somewhere where someone drive and clipped a rock face and the tyre shredded and pierced but the wolf rim was in tact..... the fact they are WOLF means they are from the Army upgrade/extension project for the Defender. They do weigh a bleeding ton mind.
 
Is it just for the look that folk want the Wolf wheels? Standard Land Rover rims are plenty strong.
Gawd knows I have done my best to wreak them but only a couple have given in to Welsh coast rocks in Fifty years. :D

The Wolf (HD) wheels are a lot stronger/thicker than the std, my problem is I can spot the copies a mile off, and 'yes' they look more gooderer than std steely's.
 
It is said that for best ride, road holding overall performance the unsprung weight should be kept to a minimum.
Still it's a Land Rover, we just want them to have beef🐂
 
Is it just for the look that folk want the Wolf wheels? Standard Land Rover rims are plenty strong.
Gawd knows I have done my best to wreak them but only a couple have given in to Welsh coast rocks in Fifty years. :D
They are wider as well so you can fit wider tyres.
 
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