P38A Wiring on door latches

The day I thought I would 'just change the doors over' on my car was a bad day, but I still like the colour..........

So in touch with senior members here in regard to constant current drain, seems the BeCM is not going to sleep and will be getting the BeCM unlocked and treated.

However have decided to look at the door locks and found the donor door lock from'97 and have found some significant differences.

the original door locks have a 2 pin plug and a 6 pin plug.

The donor latches have a 3pin socket and six wires directly in to body of the latch.

So I am going to cut the 'newer' socktes off and hard solder the wires to the six pin plug. Then sodler the black wire directly to the 2 pin connection. I am assuming the shiney pin will be the one to connect the black wire to and not the slightly corroded pin as assume that has not been 'protected' from the elements from a proper connection.

Any thoughts and experience would be appreciated.

Thanks.

What year is your P38? Just changed the front door latches on my '98 Gems model. The micro switches had burnt out because the old style rf receiver had kept waking the BeCM and drained the battery. Looks like you have one Gems latch and one Thor latch. The Gems latches have the short section of wiring already attached.

Mine is a 95 DT, the latch is on the right in the top picture. The donor latch is from a 97 4.6 hse, on the left in top picture.

To clarify (I think I'm right in saying); in your top photo - both are locks from the front passenger door - the one on the left is from a pre '99 (with the wired in loom) - the one on the right is from a post '99 with the open pin connectors.

The smaller plug on the 95 has a single black cable on mine, as far as I remember. You've got the wiring diagrams in RAVE?

Not sure if this thread is of any use to you? https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/central-locking-mystery.197167/

MartyUK put up some lock troubleshooting guide somewhere on here. Think they're on RR.net too.

What's wrong with it? You can just get an MGF lock of the same year and swap parts over.

There are about 4 different types of door latch for the front doors. Physically they are all the same internally about how they work/lock/unlock etc. The microswitch design changed a bit (as did the connectors) across the model years.

First version was 2 moulded connectors - 6 way and 1 way. (as Grrrr says, the MGF latches fit, and they have a second pin in the 1 way connector that the RR doesn't use - which is what your original latch looks like with the 2 pins).
Second version is what you show in the picture - 3 way moulded connector and a bunch of wires, that run to a 6 way + 1 way connector at the end of the loom
Third version is no moulded connector, and just 7 wires coming out of the latch, that go to a 6 way and 1 way connector
Fourth version (which was brought in on the later 'thor' models) is the same as the Third Version, but instead of 2 connectors, it uses a single 8 way connector, with 1 pin unused.

Which latch are you trying to fit into which door?

You shouldn't need to do any cutting or soldering, other than maybe the black wire(s) as the pin connections between the moulded 6 way connector in the old latch and the 6 way connector on the end of the loom on the newer latch are identical.

Whichever latch you don't use, I might be interested in acquiring it from you, as I refurbish them in my spare time. Drop me a message once you have finished you project and we can discuss it.

As Grrrr says aswell, I have written up a document on how to test the door latch wiring, and it can be found in a few places, but the easiest is probably on my website: http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71 That link should take you to my technical information page, and be able to download the door latch tests file.

Hope this helps,
Marty

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the help. I was trying to sort out battery drain and BeCM not going to sleep and before I posted off the BeCM wanted to check problems with door latches. I followed the tests on the drivers door and could not get continuity as per the tests. Also found the connector between latch wire and door wiring loom was corroded 13ohms on some connections. Ended up soldering the wires to the six pins in the original latch. Reinstalled and the link between the key and latch dropped off and my remote key fob has never worked, managed to break in as door card off and got a loop long cable tie around the uppie down bit. By the end of the day had correct continuity between the connector at the outstation on all four doors. No work necessary on the other three doors. Still have a constant current drain of 540mA when locked which momentarily drops to 480mA every 2 minutes. Car starts and drives fine and I have current tested all standard fuses. Did the big fuses before before playing with the door latches and found current through three of them. feed up........ But have now parked car away from house to stop me fiddling and removed BeCM ready to send of the Rick the Pick next week.

Thanks again for the replies.

Which 3 fuses show current drain?

Have you the new RF receiver or have you done BrianDSE's double fob trick?

Check your receiver is plugged in and key synced?

No old receiver (in boot) disconnected shortly after buying car, will check about syncing key and search double fob trick. Might have time this evening.

Cheers, Grrrrrr

Double fob trick http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/rf-reciever-work-round-258096.html

Jerseyp38 said:

No old receiver (in boot) disconnected shortly after buying car, will check about syncing key and search double fob trick. Might have time this evening.

Cheers, Grrrrrr

Click to expand...

Key won't sync without receiver.

Thanks, Grrrrrr, spent an age trying to get the led on the key fob to flash, connected the blue wire back on the receiver . Reconnected the becm but managed to leave out one plug. ABS warning and engine wouldn't, run. Found my error plugged the extra plug I tried pressing the unlock button on the key fob then unlocking. Engine started and ran. Then checked current drain still 540mA decreasing momentarily after 2 minutes.

Thanks Brianp38hse, will look at this when up and running. Item not listed but assume this is the same thing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...742063?hash=item2a37612def:g:5awAAOSwPTlTzIFg

So have removed BeCM and will send off, suppose I had better invest in a new key fob to!

Thanks

This is the same as the one I used, the wiring on the one you posted is a different set up
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331012351023?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thanks.