P38A Window

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
The other 3 windows and the sunroof work fine its just the drivers one

I got this a long time ago from a good m8 in Scotland who worked on nuclear subs

That is a good DVM, turn the knob 1 position anti clockwise to test voltage.
The problem might just be the switch, I have one on my project car that doesn't work. Try some rapid rocking of the switch with the ignition on.
If there is someone near you with a Nanocom things could be narrowed down a bit.

marjon · Mar 1, 2020

Ok.
1.voltage dc
2. Continuity ( with a bleeper)
3. Red probe
4. Black probe

Fluke are generally a very good make, if you haven’t used it does it turn on? It may need a battery.

voltage testing will probably need ignition on, continuity doesn’t, but in this case do the windows go through the BECM so may not bleep.

continuity is great for checking for broken wires or switches.

go on go for it.

J

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

Datatek said:
That is a good DVM, turn the knob 1 position anti clockwise to test voltage.
The problem might just be the switch, I have one on my project car that doesn't work. Try some rapid rocking of the switch with the ignition on.
If there is someone near you with a Nanocom things could be narrowed down a bit.

What holes do I put the leads in do you know? And what am I looking for? Volt wise, or will it beep??

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

marjon said:
Ok.
1.voltage dc
2. Continuity ( with a bleeper)
3. Red probe
4. Black probe

Fluke are generally a very good make, if you haven’t used it does it turn on? It may need a battery.

voltage testing will probably need ignition on, continuity doesn’t, but in this case do the windows go through the BECM so may not bleep.

continuity is great for checking for broken wires or switches.

go on go for it.

J

I cant see where is says voltage DC
wheres2
red on what hole
Black what hole?

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
What holes do I put the leads in do you know? And what am I looking for? Volt wise, or will it beep??

I'll have to fire up my computer and look at RAVE to tell you that, I'll get back to you.

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
I cant see where is says voltage DC
wheres2
red on what hole
Black what hole?

Voltage DC is where I said, 1 position anti clockwise from the OFF position.
The red lead goes in the red hole, the black lead goes in the hole marked COM

marjon · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
I cant see where is says voltage DC
wheres2
red on what hole
Black what hole?

can you see the pic I posted?

j

marjon · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

Just did it, switch seems fine was getting a beep from all 3 pins

marjon · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
Just did it, switch seems fine was getting a beep from all 3 pins

wot without pushing switch? Or in different positions?

you the man

forget the PHD

J

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
Just did it, switch seems fine was getting a beep from all 3 pins

So you had the meter on Ohms? Putting it on the pins set to ohms will tell you nothing unless you have the switch disconnected from the wiring, it needs to be on DC volts, in fact you could damage the meter using ohms if there is voltage present.

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

Datatek said:
Voltage DC is where I said, 1 position anti clockwise from the OFF position.
The red lead goes in the red hole, the black lead goes in the hole marked COM

Yea that's how I did it, and did it on continuity is position 1 the same as 5 (on the left? you just get a sound??)

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
Yea that's how I did it, and did it on continuity is position 1 the same as 5 (on the left? you just get a sound??)

There is electronics involved, the BECM and the outstation. It's not a simple switch circuit. I think you need to ask someone to help before you damage something (no disrespect).
There are only 2 wires at the motor, pin s 1 & 3 in the connector, you should have 12 volts across those pins with the switched pressed and the ignition in position 1. For simplicity you could check that with a 12 volt bulb.

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

Datatek said:
There is electronics involved, the BECM and the outstation. It's not a simple switch circuit. I think you need to ask someone to help before you damage something (no disrespect).
There are only 2 wires at the motor, pin s 1 & 3 in the connector, you should have 12 volts across those pins with the switched pressed and the ignition in position 1. For simplicity you could check that with a 12 volt bulb.

I did say I was no good at sparks!!!

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

Datatek said:
There is electronics involved, the BECM and the outstation. It's not a simple switch circuit. I think you need to ask someone to help before you damage something (no disrespect).
There are only 2 wires at the motor, pin s 1 & 3 in the connector, you should have 12 volts across those pins with the switched pressed and the ignition in position 1. For simplicity you could check that with a 12 volt bulb.

I just did it the way you said, I am getting 0v if you remember I had trouble before with the switch pack

Jedd · Mar 1, 2020

Dopey said:
I did say I was no good at sparks!!!

use a tester with a bulb, start with the plug to switch see if you have power to switch, if no power there then it will be a break .

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Robthebob said:
use a tester with a bulb, start with the plug to switch see if you have power to switch, if no power there then it will be a break .

It's not that simple, there are not individual wires for each switch, just 3 wires for all the switches plus some electronics. There is certainly power to the switch pack as the other switches work.

Jedd · Mar 1, 2020

Datatek said:
It's not that simple, there are not individual wires for each switch, just 3 wires for all the switches plus some electronics. There is certainly power to the switch pack as the other switches work.

ok so if all other windows work off the pack then the switch is at fault, in previous posy he said he had fit a fresh window motor and it made no change.

Dopey · Mar 1, 2020

I have another switch pack in the shed, I THINK, it was the sunroof on the other one (I can't remember) I will swap it over tomorrow and if it works then I know it's the switch, then I either leave it in and no sunroof, of buy yet another pack

Datatek · Mar 1, 2020

Robthebob said:
ok so if all other windows work off the pack then the switch is at fault, in previous posy he said he had fit a fresh window motor and it made no change.

It may or may not be the switch. Broken wires where they flex between the A post and the door is not uncommon.

P38A Window

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