doriz
Well-Known Member
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^^ boat thread alert ^^
Just shows how capable these freelanderererererers are
Just shows how capable these freelanderererererers are
In the same sense as its probably worth more as razor blades?I think one way to make the FL1 more valuable, would be to convert it to electric drive. Although I expect it'll cost more to convert, then the value it would add. It's something that I'm still considering for a future project though.
Electric vehicle prices are rising, as the EV movement hots up. Even the crap Nissan Leaf has seen a 25% increase in value over the last 18 months.In the same sense as its probably worth more as razor blades?
I'm on the same lines with ours. Had it 10 years, fault repairs and depreciation has averaged out at about £350 per year. Plus I have a fairly economical car to run that is easy and cheap to keep running.my wife has had hers for over 20 years its a 1800 hse and she was just saying today she has had her money worth out of it I think she paid about 9k it coming up to 90,000 and had 1 new head gasket yes its the 1800 but every Mot she passes no advisories I can not say that for a lot of cars I have had in the past, I am on my second freelander a td4 hse auto and I had a few problems but all sorted I hope! I do not want a new car that as soon as you are of the forecourt you have lost about 20% I know both cars and that the way I like it .
Electric vehicle prices are rising, as the EV movement hots up. Even the crap Nissan Leaf has seen a 25% increase in value over the last 18 months.
Yeh, I was really surprised how expensive electric cars are. The cheapest Leaf over here is about £25k-£30k new. Silly money.Electric vehicle prices are rising, as the EV movement hots up. Even the crap Nissan Leaf has seen a 25% increase in value over the last 18 months.
You check the price of a 10 year old Leaf, with 100K on the clock, and the battery at 60% of it's original capacity. Whatever price you see, will be up by about 25% on the same vehicle 18 months ago.I find this ridiculous. I’d get an electric motor if I could justify the outlay.
I was talking about second hand EVs. New prices haven't risen much, but because an EV is so cheap to run, and new ones are so expensive, second had prices have risen sharply.I was really surprised how expensive electric cars are. The cheapest Leaf over here is about £25k-£30k new.
They will come down. The now Chinese owned MG brand are actually selling a useable and not bad EV (Oddly called a ZS) for under £25K. That's comparable in price to an equivalent Ford Kuga diesel, of a similar spec. Now factor in that the EV will have only 25% of the of the running costs (3 or 4 pence per mile), then it doesn't take a genius to work out, that the EV will save money from the word go. Add to this the slow depreciation of an EV and minimal maintenance cost, and it's soon becomes why the EV is now becoming the popular choice.Silly money.
I'm waiting for an immaculate condition 1.8 HSE with a failed engine.What are you waiting for??
All joking apart if you could come up with a kit for 10K to convert a Freelander would be a good base car to fit it to, cheap to buy, do not seem to have rust problems, if you started converting them in any numbers you could take them into a factory, strip them down, refit the interior, respray change to electric and if you could sell for less than 20k a green recycled car?But we all need a prototype first, then get into mass production of convertion kits, then retire early!!!
All joking apart if you could come up with a kit for 10K to convert a Freelander would be a good base car to fit it to, cheap to buy, do not seem to have rust problems, if you started converting them in any numbers you could take them into a factory, strip them down, refit the interior, respray change to electric and if you could sell for less than 20k a green recycled car?
So 4 wheel drive? or just 2, rear wheel drive would be easier, do you keep a gearbox, or just direct drive? where do you mount batteries? I think the wiring would be a nightmare, I would love to have a go but think it is way beyond meI've already been crunching numbers and working out what components are needed to make it move, steer and stop. I reckon I could make a driving and useable FL1 EV for under £10K, as long as a 100mile range isn't a major issue. If longer range is needed, then it'll cost more, as the batteries are the most expensive components needed, the capacity of which directly effect the range.
Unfortunately since EVs are becoming more popular, the salvaged components needed to build a DIY EV are also going up in cost, but it's still a viable proposition.
For my own use, a 100 mile range would be the equivalent of my weeks commute. So isn't a major problem. I could charge it every night, so it would always be ready for use in the morning.
Why ? Is it because you’ve filled the tank up, it’ll double it’s valueMines appreciating already.
Certainly worth more than when I bought it a year ago, anyway!
Keeping it 4WD, as a 2WD FL1 is pointless.So 4 wheel drive? or just 2, rear wheel drive would be easier, do you keep a gearbox, or just direct drive?
If the fuel tank is removed, there's a decent amount of space for a sizable battery pack, right there ready for use. There's also more space behind the rear sub-frame (where the rear silencer resides normally) and if the rear cubby box is removed (making the boot floor flat) then the space under the boot floor is huge. I've worked out I can fit over 30 kWh of batteries in those 2 locations alone.where do you mount batteries?
The wiring integration with the vehicle CAN-BUS will be the difficult bit, but I don't think it's impossible to solve these days, as there are CAN-BUS emulators and converters available now. Actually getting the vehicle to move under battery power isn't that difficult, as there's a growing community of people developing motor drive controllers for the Nissan Leaf motor/inverter for this very purpose.I think the wiring would be a nightmare,
Thankfully I'm suitably skilled to do the engineering, but my stumbling block is the finances, which would be a considerable up front outlay, with no return until it's on the road. Also a suitable (immaculate) FL1 needs to be found at a good price, as there's no point in messing with a tatty or rusty vehicle to start with.I would love to have a go but think it is way beyond me
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