You may like to take a look inside the ECU for moisture ingress and contamination. Carefully though.
Well despite conflicting advice I opened the ECU and there is moisture verging on wet present so nothing will be lost if I can't get it dry and to work as will do a deal with Datateks offer
The reason the fuse box and ECU has suffered I think is due to overfow pipe on expansion tank is missing
Good man, carefully does it, dry it off and gently remove any verdigris that could cause a short. A bit of clear lacquer to seal it. I have used clear nail varnish in the past. But think you can get circuit board lacquer from Maplin or the like. See what you get. Nothing ventured nothing gained. If it's knackered, it's knackered but if it works job done i would think. You are doing well.
Thought you used tarty red or pansy pink Tony. Just a thought, the OP said the FIP had been played with. Do you think they could have moved the second part of the top cover? Another piece of straw to grasp at
Thought you used tarty red or pansy pink Tony. Just a thought, the OP said the FIP had been played with. Do you think they could have moved the second part of the top cover? Another piece of straw to grasp at
Maybe. But that in the wrong place would either, stop it from starting or cause it to idle too quickly. If it idles at a rock steady 750 it should be ok.
Dry the ECU out gently, wash any corrosion off with PCB cleaner. Handle the ECU with care, static can destroy the integrated circuits so earth your body before touching anything.Well despite conflicting advice I opened the ECU and there is moisture verging on wet present so nothing will be lost if I can't get it dry and to work as will do a deal with Datateks offer
The reason the fuse box and ECU has suffered I think is due to overfow pipe on expansion tank is missing
Get a can od conformal coating and after testing it is OK, give the whole board a coating.Great info
A trip to Maplins today is on my list of to do's
Will PM you later
Thanks
many thanks also
No engine speed signal, the ECU has no idea what the engine is doing.Pic 1: shows the damaged board (about centre of right hand side)
After tracing the 55 pins from engine control unit the damage was pin 6 = engine speed signal
Pin 2 was throttle speed signal
Pin 18 was i think coolant temp sensor ?? See pic 2 green plug
I hope some definative answers can be gained from why it did cause the problem ?
I did other small soldering work on the board and the speedo now works
Pic 1: shows the damaged board (about centre of right hand side)
After tracing the 55 pins from engine control unit the damage was pin 6 = engine speed signal
Pin 2 was throttle speed signal
Pin 18 was i think coolant temp sensor ?? See pic 2 green plug
I hope some definative answers can be gained from why it did cause the problem ?
I did other small soldering work on the board and the speedo now works
According to pin out data on Nanocom site. Pin 2 is fuel quantity solenoid. Pin 6 is power out for EGR control solenoid. So not used on your car. Pin 18 is ECU earth. CPS goes to Pin 47. http://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/1392441584.pdf
i was using Rave page 299 for the info that i gave. I am over the moon that it all worked but wanted clarification of the fault/s. can you confirm the green plug in my photo 2 please what sensor is that ? there is a brown sensor screwed in head toward front of engine and green plug screwed in head towards rear of engine
Green sensor in the middle is the ECU engine temperature sensor, the brown one over the FIP is for the gauge iircCheers Wammers
That makes perfect sense and knew i would be corrected
Rave has fried me head and wanted to check I ordered right sensor
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