Why won't it start

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Ambriel said:
Pulled the cover from the cambelt cover just now and checked the timing alignment. With the cams lined up correctly with the mark on the cover the crankshaft pulley is just slightly to the right of the mark on the casing.

Would this be enough to cause it not to fire?

I've assembled the distributor with the number lead 1 to the top and 4 at the bottom. Is this correct?
Click to expand...

No the pulley being out would just give a lumpy ignition.

The distributor has 1 at the top. The two recesses on the cap are at the bottom, they act as an oil drain, if the cam seal leaks.
 
Northern Irelander said:
No the pulley being out would just give a lumpy ignition.

The distributor has 1 at the top. The two recesses on the cap are at the bottom, they act as an oil drain, if the cam seal leaks.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'd better check we have sparks then. It's always possible I've forgotten to re-connect one of the connectors.

I checked the dizzy and see what you mean by the screws being offset.
 
Ambriel said:
Thanks, I'd better check we have sparks then. It's always possible I've forgotten to re-connect one of the connectors.

I checked the dizzy and see what you mean by the screws being offset.
Click to expand...

There is an automatic cut off switch on the FL, it sould only be activated after a crash etc, its in front of the bulk head. I know its an obvious thing, but it might need reset/pressed.

Fingers crossed you find the culprit.

As Ming would say........ you are doing a grand job earthling!
 
Northern Irelander said:
There is an automatic cut off switch on the FL, it sould only be activated after a crash etc, its in front of the bulk head. I know its an obvious thing, but it might need reset/pressed.
Click to expand...

Good thinking. I haven't (knowingly) done anything to trigger it but...

I just went out and had a poke around with a torch and found a wiring connector still loose. It's the one that plugs in under the water pipe at the front of the engine - guessing its a temperature sensor - but haven't had a chance to try starting it again as the rain started coming in horizontally.
 
Ambriel said:
Good thinking. I haven't (knowingly) done anything to trigger it but...

I just went out and had a poke around with a torch and found a wiring connector still loose. It's the one that plugs in under the water pipe at the front of the engine - guessing its a temperature sensor - but haven't had a chance to try starting it again as the rain started coming in horizontally.
Click to expand...

Don't think that would prevent starting . . but you never know yer luck !!
 
The brown connector is the temp sender to ECU. If its disconnected then it will fool the ECU to running a rich mixture, this overfueling might prevent starting? Plus the rad fan should come on when engine running. The blue connector is for the temp gauge reading.
 
Ambriel. Please remember the age old adage: "Keep it simple". Forget all the gimmicks and gadgets bolted on to the engine. It still has to comply with the suck,squeeze, bang ,blow basic laws of the internal combustion engine.

A: Ignition 'ON' do you hear the electric fuel pump running to provide pre pressurised fuel to the injectors. If not check inertia switch, fuel pump fuse etc.
B: Crank engine and carefully check whether there is an ignition spark to the spark plug leads (plug in an old spark plug to one of the leads and hold it against the engine block with pliers whilst somebody cranks the engine).

No spark: Check all connectors are clean and tight.
Good spark: Take a spark plug out is it wet with fuel?

Spark plug dry: Are the injectors working? listen to one of them via a long screwdriver etc while somebody cranks the engine you should hear a distinct clicking as the injector solenoid opens and closes.
Spark plug wet: so you have a spark and fuel on the spark plugs now the only possible reasons for non starting can be a gross ignition or valve timing error as I understand that you have already checked cylinder compressions.

Good luck

D..........
 
Gentlemen, thank you all for your invaluable advice.

Yesterday I adjusted the cambelt by one tooth position and checked it was now timed correctly. This morning I checked the loom connectors are all tight, reset the cut-out switch (just in case), and reconnected the battery.

Result?

Started first time with no cranking. Aside from a bit of squealing from the alternator belt (just needs tightening) she sounds as sweet as a nut.

I'll be gentle with her for a week or so, then change the oil and coolant water and start to use her properly again.

Cheers everyone!
 
Top marks Ambriel, I'll be looking for someone to give advice in my absence. Oil should only need one flush, whereas coolant may need several. Fortes do all the flushing compounds, why waste good money when dishwasher powder will clean the coolant system, an airline helps remove the most of it.
 
Im not convinced about the timing, a tooth out is within tolerances, many people on MG-Rover.org get the engine to run on badly timed k-series. Its simple disconnect the sensor and try to start it. Its controlling the choke, idle speed, mapping and injector pulses.
Oh yeah dissolve the dishwasher before hand, or go with the liquid type as MHM said
 
Computer been on blink, just like the FL but they're both fixed now. Turned out to be, as many of you said, the timing. The mechanic has been sacked as we finished the job ourselves. Apparantly he was trying to time it without using the pulley/sprocket locking tool. Timing out each time. We got the proper tool and she fird up like a good 'un. Slight missing caused by a faulty coil pack but soon sorted with a new one. Thank you all for your input.
 
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