Wheel Bearings - Preload & Endfloat

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bankz5152

Well-Known Member
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South London/North Kent
Been learning all about wheel bearings, adjustment etc.. after one of mine failed due to being too tight.

So as far as I understand it the older system LR used was Endfloat, the two lock nuts and washer method which made for pretty simple adjusting either via torque values or feel. Then the later 'idiot proof' method of Preload using a steel collar/spacer and a stake nut, done up bastard tight with various spacers to adjust.

Mine had both methods done, preload on the rears and endfloat on the fronts. I was wondering if it would be sensible to use the endfloat method to get the bearings adjusted but still using the the collar/spacer which in my mind prevents the bearings from getting too tight?

Also as to why LR changed it, seems like the old method is better and preferred by most. The new method doesnt look like it saves any money on the manufacturing side so why the change?

Also am I correct in thinking the Pumas do not have changeable wheel bearings and the whole hub as to be swapped?
 
I get the feeling that the cone bearings done up 'just right' was more to do with the lack of accurate tolerances on older vehicles. If you have a spacer, for it to be effective the gap must be exact. Also, a cone bearing can be tightened up when it gets a little worn so you can prolong the bearings use.

Personally I can't see any advantage in having a spacer between the bearings if there's not meant to be one. It might even encourage you to over tighten the bearings..
 
Taper bearings require some maintenance as they wear but new sealed for life type bearings dont ,you just replace them as they wear but they tend to last alot longer without being touched

If you can do the maintenance then i feel taper bearings are better as they are cheaper and easier to fit (at least easier than the type you need a press to get in / out of the hub)

Maybe taper bearings wont stand up to the acceleration / speed of modern cars as they are still used on both small private and big commercial trailers
 
Taper bearings are easy to adjust. Rock wheel and nip up until no play can be felt, then fit lock washer and nut,
 
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