Disco 2 What's that noise and should i fix it or get a remap first?

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i agree with getting a diagnostic tool, I brought a Nanocom, which at the time i was worried about how much use it would get, But, its been a life saver and has saved me more money than its cost,
 
I get why not to buy an eBay £16.99 special from China but what's the benefit of a nanocom / hawkeye / lynx over something like the Terrafirma tf930 (rebounded icarsoft i930) or the later icarsoft lr2? Both of these seem to offer full diagnostics and reset, just don't do remap flash, and they're less than half the price. Has anyone tried both options?
 
the icar soft doesnt read all ecu's on the td5(even though their literature says it does) and doesn't program height sensors, injectors etc.
 
Paul Leinichen said:
I get why not to buy an eBay £16.99 special from China but what's the benefit of a nanocom / hawkeye / lynx over something like the Terrafirma tf930 (rebounded icarsoft i930) or the later icarsoft lr2? Both of these seem to offer full diagnostics and reset, just don't do remap flash, and they're less than half the price. Has anyone tried both options?
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The diesel Discoverys did not become fully OBDII compatible until the release of the Disco 3 in the middle of 2004, even though they are fitted with an OBDII style connector under the dashboard.
The petrol vehicles were fully compatible a few years before that, so the cheaper ones, including the iCarSoft one will probably work properly (but don't hold me to that) allowing the vendor to quote the Disco 2 on his sales blurb.
Because of this anomaly, a couple of companies saw a bit of a niche market, notably Black Box Solutions for the Nanocom and Omnitek for the Hawkeye. The Testbook T4 always was compatible with the Disco 2 because it's the LR main dealer's test equipment. The Lynx only became available a couple of years ago when the gap in the market was noted.
The main differences these days could be listed as:
  • Nanocom Evolution (Evo) is a small handheld unit, with a colour touchscreen. The colour makes it a bit easier to read. I believe that there are one or two functions, but very few that the Nanocom can't do. The on-screen "buttons" can be a bit small, especially if you tend towards sausage fingers.
  • Hawkeye, like the Nanocom is a handheld unit but it has a single colour display and navigation is by using the buttons on the front panel. There are a couple of functions which like the Nanocom the Hawkeye can't complete, such as key coding.
  • The Lynx is an adapter which allows the user to use a laptop computer to undertake the diagnostics functions.
  • The Testbook T4, being the main dealer's test equipment is financially outside the realms of reality for most DIY owners.
With the exception of the Testbook, prices are pretty similar at a couple of hundred each.
 
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brian47 said:
  • Nanocom Evolution (Evo) is a small handheld unit, with a colour touchscreen. The colour makes it a bit easier to read. I believe that there are one or two functions, but very few that the Nanocom can't do.
  • Hawkeye, like the Nanocom is a handheld unit but it has a single colour display and navigation is by using the buttons on the front panel. There are a couple of functions which like the Nanocom the Hawkeye can't complete, such as key coding.
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@brian47,

May be just the way you have written it, or I have misconstrued your meaning. But you make it sound like the Nanocom and hawkeye cannot code keys. To clarify, both the nanocom and hawkeye can code keys, BUT the difference is:

The Nanocom can code keys using only the 6 digit code found inside the key fob on a white label attached to the chip. So a car can be programmed to use a second hand key easily.
The Hawkeye if I understood it correctly, I do not own one to verify, Can only use the long code that comes with a separate ticket on a brand new key. This is sometimes called the "bar code".

(*** There is an excel file that may translate the 6 digit code for a hawkeye to use , but I have never found anyone who has used it , ( @listerdiesel , did you ever try the code translator?****)

This makes the Nanocom better for coding keys to the D2, if a spare is required.

Cheers
 
@neilly

Yeah, reading it back it does look a little strange, but I did know that there were some difficulties with the Hawkeye coding keys which wasn't a problem with the Nanocom. I also know that the Nanocom can read and modify the EKA whereas I don't think the Hawkeye can do that.
My overall reasoning in writing it the way I did was to highlight the fact that each device has its pros and cons, and each one might be able to do something which the other can't. I was trying to highlight really why the only "truthful" code readers are the ones we know about.
Like you, I don't have a Hawkeye and the amount I've used my Nanocom hardly makes me an expert, I'm only going on what I've read and been told.
But thanks for raising the point.
 
My D2 was always quite lively but bad on fuel, so thought remap.

Got Mike Dynachip to remap, he tolf me I had a poor remap with masses of over fuelling and not much mid range changes.

0-60 went from 10 to 9 seconds, not done long enough to check economy
 
RyanDay1 said:
Any news?
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Had a few minor complications to resolve first (i'm getting used to this "quirk" or Land Rover ownership - start doing 1 job and find 3 others that have to be done first!), found a water leak, had a little problem with clutch and a couple of little bits and bobs to sort.
Finally got all that done and have booked the remap for tomorrow - really wasn't much I could see in it between Alive and Dynochip. I've gone with Alive purely on the basis of the installer living only about 25-30 mins from here so if I get any issues then I can get to him / get him here nice and quick.
I'll let you know on Sunday what it goes like - but from what everyone says it should be much more fun :)
So far, it's had EGR removed and de-cat pipe fitted + I've now replaced the top radiator hose (stupid little plastic valve degraded and came apart and managed to strip out thread so couldn't just replace the valve - nice new pipe now with the addition of an alloy valve, so won't have that issue again), nice new Valeo clutch arrived this morning (or advice I've cancelled the Britpart one originally ordered - John Craddock were very good about this, certainly recommend them on their customer service - Valeo one ordered from Maltings as they were cheapest I could find).
Now toying with the idea of straight through centre pipe - read a few reviews that say this gives better exhaust flow and allows turbo to spool faster - any comments on this would be greatly appreciated. Then need a few weeks to let bank balance recover (and the bank manager - i.e. "the missus" - get over the tantrums about the amount I've spent recently). Then we'll see what tempts me next - if the power still isn't what I want then it's intercooler time in the spring, if it is then I'll be looking to upgrade tyres and maybe a decent roof rack, will have to see about that nearer the time.......
 
Paul Leinichen said:
Had a few minor complications to resolve first (i'm getting used to this "quirk" or Land Rover ownership - start doing 1 job and find 3 others that have to be done first!), found a water leak, had a little problem with clutch and a couple of little bits and bobs to sort.
Finally got all that done and have booked the remap for tomorrow - really wasn't much I could see in it between Alive and Dynochip. I've gone with Alive purely on the basis of the installer living only about 25-30 mins from here so if I get any issues then I can get to him / get him here nice and quick.
I'll let you know on Sunday what it goes like - but from what everyone says it should be much more fun :)
So far, it's had EGR removed and de-cat pipe fitted + I've now replaced the top radiator hose (stupid little plastic valve degraded and came apart and managed to strip out thread so couldn't just replace the valve - nice new pipe now with the addition of an alloy valve, so won't have that issue again), nice new Valeo clutch arrived this morning (or advice I've cancelled the Britpart one originally ordered - John Craddock were very good about this, certainly recommend them on their customer service - Valeo one ordered from Maltings as they were cheapest I could find).
Now toying with the idea of straight through centre pipe - read a few reviews that say this gives better exhaust flow and allows turbo to spool faster - any comments on this would be greatly appreciated. Then need a few weeks to let bank balance recover (and the bank manager - i.e. "the missus" - get over the tantrums about the amount I've spent recently). Then we'll see what tempts me next - if the power still isn't what I want then it's intercooler time in the spring, if it is then I'll be looking to upgrade tyres and maybe a decent roof rack, will have to see about that nearer the time.......
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Blimey that's busy, sounds good! If you don't find problems as you fix em its not a landy, and tell the missus you 'need' it all not want ;)
 
hahaha, last time I tried that one I got very abruptly told "you NEED to stop spending so bloody much on that damn car!!". Sometimes it's easier to keep the peace and have a few weeks in between spends - that way it gives her chance to find something she likes at the garden centre, then she's got no grounds to complain next time I buy something mechanical. :D
 
Does make me wonder how many on here have secret "Landrover bank accounts"........;)

But then they would always be empty.....................:D

Cheers
 
Forgot to add - I've checked all the paperwork and I feel I may well have bought a very rare "well maintained" example as I've not only got the EKA code but also the key code and radio code printed on the original little card which is neatly stapled inside the back cover of the service book. Almost fell off my chair when I found that!
 
Can always try me old mans method he uses when going to the fishing or gun shop, buys about 70% of the cost on the card then the rest in cash, then tells me mum that it only cost the amount he paid on the card! But even at the "cheaper" cost she still says it costs too much :D
 
Paul Leinichen said:
...The traction control seems to do it in a fairly straight line as well as when turning under fairly light acceleration - pulled away from traffic lights earlier, normal town centre speeds, and went over slight bump (rough bit of tarmac) and it did it. Seem to continue until I back off the throttle. ...
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It's hard to tell from just the descriptions but is anyone else concerned the TC is going off more often than it should? Mine operates what I think is normally i.e. when it goes off I know why it's looking for traction. I wouldn't expect it to go off just accelerating in a straight line.

Will the TD5 Alive chap run any diagnostics as part of the job? It would be worth checking for a problem before putting any extra power through the wheels.




edit: p.s. on the 'man-spending' thing... I've got a mate who bought a new mountain bike. He got the bike company to send the proper sales paperwork to his work and send the bike to his house including a letter congratulating him on winning it in the monthly draw. Imagine his surprise and delight when he opened the completely unexpected package...
 
Higgo said:
It's hard to tell from just the descriptions but is anyone else concerned the TC is going off more often than it should? Mine operates what I think is normally i.e. when it goes off I know why it's looking for traction. I wouldn't expect it to go off just accelerating in a straight line.

Will the TD5 Alive chap run any diagnostics as part of the job? It would be worth checking for a problem before putting any extra power through the wheels.




edit: p.s. on the 'man-spending' thing... I've got a mate who bought a new mountain bike. He got the bike company to send the proper sales paperwork to his work and send the bike to his house including a letter congratulating him on winning it in the monthly draw. Imagine his surprise and delight when he opened the completely unexpected package...
Click to expand...
I flipped my TC on in a line last night, was absolutely flooring it though, 2nd gear, remaps fault...

That is a brilliant idea :D
 
Higgo said:
It's hard to tell from just the descriptions but is anyone else concerned the TC is going off more often than it should? Mine operates what I think is normally i.e. when it goes off I know why it's looking for traction. I wouldn't expect it to go off just accelerating in a straight line.

Will the TD5 Alive chap run any diagnostics as part of the job? It would be worth checking for a problem before putting any extra power through the wheels.




edit: p.s. on the 'man-spending' thing... I've got a mate who bought a new mountain bike. He got the bike company to send the proper sales paperwork to his work and send the bike to his house including a letter congratulating him on winning it in the monthly draw. Imagine his surprise and delight when he opened the completely unexpected package...
Click to expand...


It definitely feels like it's coming on more often than it should. Had the remap done (gotta say it's made a huge difference - wanted a good all round drive and not just ridiculous power, now it drives really well with lots more power & torque and much less turbo lag), during the job it had a full diagnostics check done and nothing came up. There's no issues with other lights coming on. In fact, after the diagnostic, he even commented on how I was really lucky to have one with an exceptionally good engine. He even said it started probably better than any he'd done for a long time and better than his own TD5 110 was doing at the moment! So not really sure where to go with this. I've heard a few mentions of various things that could cause it, but it's not really causing a problem at the moment (more a slight frustration than anything else). So i'm going to leave it as it is and get all the other bits and bobs I want sorted first - then i'll worry about the TC issue if / when it gets any worse. (isn't that what I seem to be hearing to be "normal Landy ownership" - don't worry about it unless it gets really bad?)
 
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