what is considered the best diesel engine model for the freelander

Which is considered the best, from those available, and particularly why?

L series

the 2 Lt BMW one in the FL1

the 2.2 Lt one in the FL2

these are the only ones i'm aware of , or are/where there others? And i'm interested only in the Landrover released/official ones, not the modified home concoction's that others may have tried.

thanks in advance.

Best in which way? All engines have there good and bad bits. But your only choice you have is dependent on the year of the vehicle. Basically the year it was made, dictates which engine it will have.

3.2 straight 6 (petrol) in the FL2, this sounds great but I have no experience of it.

Well for me, most works I can do to a car, but Engines, other than the bits that bolt on, are something I hate doing.

Looking at changing the current Freelander FI. 2.O Lt diesel. 03

Im happy to look at any age, or engine, but would like to base choice on what is considered the best engine out there( Obviously dependent on its current condition and service history.)

so looking an all in .overall consideration, reliability, fuel consumption, longevity, cost of maintenance (parts) etc.

I like the 2.00 so far, , that its chain driven not belt, seems reliable from own use and what I have read, and haven't read many bad things about it. ( fecking nightmare to service though, all those filters......)

So looking sage advice from those who have had the others, and why they think there better.

Now there you have hit it on the head...., Thats a petrol. Due to Mileage (about 35K a year) and towing, I really need to be looking at a diesel.)

Alex1000 said:

I like the 2.00 so far, , that its chain driven not belt, seems reliable from own use and what I have ready, and haven't ready many bad things about it.

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The FL1 TD4 is cheaper to maintain and run than the 2.2 in the FL2.

Both are expensive when they go wrong, but the FL2 as a vehicle has much more complex faults, when they do crop up.

Alex1000 said:

(fecking nightmare to service though, all those filters......)

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The filters on a TD4 aren't that difficult or expensive to replace, so servicing is quick, easy and cheap to carry out.

I am quite taken with the apparent (so far) simplicity of the L Series....although looking at the accessory belt, I have no idea how the heck you change that with the engine in-situ......much reading necessary!

Nodge68 said:

The FL1 TD4 is cheaper to maintain and run than the 2.2 in the FL2.

Both are expensive when they go wrong, but the FL2 as a vehicle has much more complex faults, when they do crop up.

The filters on a TD4 aren't that difficult or expensive to replace, so servicing is quick, easy and cheap to carry out.

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Never said they were expensive, just time consuming to do. I mean 5 Filters????? (oil, Crank, air,turbo, fuel) and don't get me started on whoever had the brainwave to put a fuel filter just in front of the rear wheel.

And that Under Guard /engine protector, could they not have designed a flap in that, just to get at the sump oil bolt.....

Most other cars with a lot lighted protectors have a flap.....

Now look what you've, gone and done. Broke me new year resolution and gone of on a rant....

But from what i can see, I think the 2.00 TD4 is the best all round engine. RELATIVELY easy to service and maintain, and doesn't seem to prone to S******* itself.

2006 Gaylander TD4 - I'm embarrassed to admit is the most abused and neglected engine I've ever owned. Serviced it myself once in nearly 5 years and 40 odd thousand miles.
I went through a lazy / ignorant period.....but it only let me down once after all that. Just before I sold it and that was 2 fuel injectors, which I had changed for 4 new ones.
I'm quite impressed, thinking back, at how reliable it was despite me being a twonk.
As for the silly undertray - a mate cut a small square hole in it with an angle grinder so it was easy to reach up and undo the sump plug to change the oil. Took 20 seconds to do.

I've a similar . Peugot 306 Estate.1.4 diesel got as an emergency stop gap car. (wrote of the Vectra off during the heavy rain/ floods couple years back, when I went into a puddle that wasn't a puddle.

Rough inside and out.. Cost £290.00

Never intended to keep it. 40K later and its still going. HAs over 150K on it, timing belt never done.....

Been used to haul bags of cement, plaster, rubble, and building materials (used as a van) when doing extention at the house

Never let me down, and only got a set of tyres after 20K that i put on. Done over 40K in 16 Months. <whispers in hushed breath never serviced it once since got it >. Only top up the oil an odd time. Broke the dip stick last time and don't even know if it needs oil. didn't really use any oil anyway.

It doesn't smoke, always starts, and never let me down. Went through MOT in November and only cost £150 for bushings, track rod ends and labour (it was rattling worse than a skeleton having a w*** in a tin biscuit box for the last 6 Months).

Now quiet and smooth and still going.

Costs £60 a year to tax, dos 60-70 to the gallon.

Now that I've said that, it will die gloriously on the way home from work....

Also got rear ended by a BMW 1, It got written of (headlights Brill Bumper, bonnet and 1 wing knackered) and she only got a dimple in her rear bumper. Fecker admited liability, had insurance but insurers refused to cover him "Because of facts coming to light" that they wont tell me under GDPR, Police wont do anything as he has a valid insurance as far as they are concerned, and if they question him, it would be a breach of his Human Rights??? WTF is all that about??????

Only choice is take him to court and has to be High court,(car isn't worth that much but cant do it via Small claims Likely cost for me £1500 with risk of not getting costs back.

Viking funeral planned for the old girl when she retires.

Wonder what the Hippo would be like if I did that to her???.

Damn, Digressing again

Alex1000 said:

I mean 5 Filters????? (oil, Crank, air,turbo, fuel)

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I think we have very different ideas as to what is difficult to service and what isn't. A TD4 takes 90 minutes tops, to do all engine bay filters and the oil.

Alex1000 said:

And that Under Guard /engine protector, could they not have designed a flap in that, just to get at the sump oil bolt.....

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Most vehicles these days, including LRs have some sort of under-guard for the engine. These are often left off by lazy spanner monkeys, which is hardly indicative of quality workmanship.

Alex1000 said:

and don't get me started on whoever had the brainwave to put a fuel filter just in front of the rear wheel.

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The fuel filter under the rear arch is another thing that's very common these days, but thankfully don't need changing that often.

I personally find the FL1 TD4 very easy to service and maintain, even if it's a more complex job. I'd much rather change the HP fuel pump on a TD4, than the same job on a D3 for example.

Saint.V8 said:

I am quite taken with the apparent (so far) simplicity of the L Series....although looking at the accessory belt, I have no idea how the heck you change that with the engine in-situ......much reading necessary!

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If you're talking about the drive/fan/aux belt that drives the alternator/pas/ac, its really simple - get a socket on the tensioner, pull it back (or push it away?) to loosen the belts and off it comes easy as. Fitting is obviously not quite as easy, as gravity doesn't want to help, but its still not difficult. Can't be difficult, I've managed it without to much swearing and grazed skin

There's definitely not much room to get at the cam belt. As that is so tight and you can't get a good view, and as I've never done one before, and as its not the sort of thing you can get away with doing wrong then fixing!.... its the only job on my Freelander that I've given to a mechanic to do (twice!).

Edit: Actually the starter motor was done by the auto electrician.. basically because it was free fitting.

There was 3x engines int FL2. 3.2 i6 petrol. TD4 and SD4 diesel 2.2, 4 cylinder.

i6 and SD4 are auto gearbox only.

The SD4 has diesel economy and i6 eggscelleration. Makes more noise than the i6. Power across all revs with lower running costs.

Hippo said:

There was 3x engines int FL2. 3.2 i6 petrol. TD4 and SD4 diesel 2.2, 4 cylinder.

i6 and SD4 are auto gearbox only.

The SD4 has diesel economy and i6 eggscelleration. Makes more noise than the i6. Power across all revs with lower running costs.

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There's also the i4 2.0 Petrol Ingenium

GrumpyGel said:

There's also the i4 2.0 Petrol Ingenium

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That was export only so yer might get it over your side of the pond but not ours. It were a 2L petrol via ford. FL2 never had the lr ingenium. They came out around the time it stopped production

'n the diesel Ingenium ..
driven two of those .. disco sport (fl3) and an evoque ..
nice drive .. but hate to think of the ££££ should it need fixing
variable valve timing system .. 'n what-not ..
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Hippo said:

That was export only so yer might get it over your side of the pond but not ours. It were a 2L petrol via ford. FL2 never had the lr ingenium. They came out around the time it stopped production

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Yer right - was an Ecoboost not Ingenium.

Well in the early mk1s you have the L series 2.0 8v and obviously 2.0 16v td4. Ones basic old school mechanical injection and td4 is more modern common rail injection via a 16v head.

Big fan of both engines, I find that it's hard to kill an L series, my wife has racked up 200,000 miles on her last 3 l series 25s including crashing one, flooding one twice and generally having zero mechanical sympathy in the slightest.

Bar the dual timing / fuel pump belts simple to work at, drop in a set of rover 200 sdi injectors, up boost and map and your away. Yes the freelander injectors are half way between the 200sdi and the 25 ones but it's worth doing if you can.

The td4 or m47r is a great engine, let down by fact its actually usually invited servicing wise, likes of the pcv filter and the common rail injectors usually need rebuilding at some stage (youngest are 13 years now and I've pre reg'd 2000 td4s in Northern Ireland before which are snapped up due to the cheaper tax on them over 2001 April onwards ones). I drive a td4 daily and my daily 75 also has same engine.

I've zero complaints about it, bit awkward to work at but chain driven makes life easier.

If it was me I'd say as a daily td4, if going off road v6 for power, and if doing pottering around low miles l series or k series.