What have you done to your Landie today.

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Used it to tow my quad to work. Then stripped the quad, cleaned it and made it work again, now its going to be towed back home.

Found out my leak is actually ATF fluid so I'm guessing an O ring has gone on the gearbox inside the bell housing. So its gotta come off when I have time and coins.
 
timc1967 said:
Did you look into pop door kits? These are usually used on modified cars when they want to remove the external locks and handles.

I understand central locking has a lot of moving parts that have to work with the existing mechanisms, whereas pop door kits provide new closing bolts as part of design. Just wondering if you considered and eliminated these.
Click to expand...

Central locking is up and running now :)
I wanted to keep the external key barrels as a backup in case of electrical faults- it seems sensible especially on a 1980s landy, and I think all production cars with keyless entry retain some form of emergency key.

The front doors were easy enough to do as the kit includes fittings to connect the rod from the motor to the rod from the internal lock tab. That's basically all a universal kit does- a motor connects somewhere to the existing locking mechanism in each door.

I managed to connect it to the alarm system so now all three doors lock/unlock with the alarm remote. Using the key on either front door will also trigger the other doors.
 
FlyingPete said:
Central locking is up and running now :)
I wanted to keep the external key barrels as a backup in case of electrical faults- it seems sensible especially on a 1980s landy, and I think all production cars with keyless entry retain some form of emergency key.

The front doors were easy enough to do as the kit includes fittings to connect the rod from the motor to the rod from the internal lock tab. That's basically all a universal kit does- a motor connects somewhere to the existing locking mechanism in each door.

I managed to connect it to the alarm system so now all three doors lock/unlock with the alarm remote. Using the key on either front door will also trigger the other doors.
Click to expand...

I did this to mine but I removed the barrel for the safari door. I basically ground off the bit that goes through the hole plus another 1.5mm then glued a small piece of 1.6mm ali sheet across the whole area where the hole would be. Once that had been done it couldn't move and I used flexible filler to fill the hole and painted it. There is now no sign that there was ever a hole there. Worse case scenario is that I have to climb over the back seat to unlock the door but it's working fine for now.
 
Made new bottom intercooler pipe so it doesn't catch on the inner wing
 

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This week, complete brake overhaul, fitted snorkel, fitted new Volvo seats, sanded all the galv side rails etc, sanded rear inner tub, complete change of all lights and new smaller steering wheel so I can fit in with the new seats. Today was a complete waste of time, wanted to fit steering guard but could I get one of the bolts out from the front leaf springs? Could I hell like, anyone got any tips for removal?.....
 
got my led bulbs through and the h4 headlight ones will only work on dip beam if I disconnect the high beam side of the plug so I'll be investigating the wiring tomorrow as it was feeding weird voltages. then tried fitting the led bulbs to my roof lights to have one of the wires fall out the bulb so will be putting the halogen bulbs back in tomorrow. on the plus side though the 501 led's work a treat and I can now see that the sidelights are on unlike before
 
Changed the front prop shaft and flange in an attempt to try and find where this vibration is coming from. Will disconnect the rear prop shaft tomorrow and see if that makes any difference to the vibration. I'm coming to the conclusion it might be coming from the transfer box.
 
This week, made a start changing oils (done engine and rear diff so far), sorted out loads of tools to go under my drivers seat, general tidy up etc...
Hope to get my new fuel tank fitted before the end of the weekend and finish changing gearbox, transfer box and frog diff oils :)
 
landowner said:
Fitted a diy take off in intake plenium for boost gauge (200tdi):)
Click to expand...

Good idea, also if your feeling adventurous, plumb the from the inlet manifold to the waste gate, the waste gate will only open when the set pressure is at the intake, rather than at the turbo. This made a big difference to mine with a wound up fuel pump, turbo @ 1 Bar and an Allisport intercooler :D
 
I've been drilling old hinge screws out of the font door hinges. It's tough on drill bits because they're made out of something very hard. Maybe it would have been quicker to buy new hinges as well and merely grind the whole lot off with an angle grinder. Anyway, it's done now and new captive nuts and screws have been installed with lots of grease on. Plus the doorpost has been hammered flat to compensate for some distortion probably caused by the door being opened too wide.

While I was out an old man came up and asked me if I wanted some oil. He went home to get it and came back with a boot load of containers with various stuff in, mostly 20w50 and 10w40 and other things unsuitable for a TD5. I took it anyway. If it's clean I can add it to the fuel over a period of time, plus have a bit left for putting in the oil can.
 
Unexpected reprieve from family duties today

Tow bar and rear step off for a bit of clearance.. not in time to get down to cuddymunts though sadly :(
 
Spent the afternoon cleaning and ordering parts ready for the rebuild
oh and spent 2 hrs cleaning the gearbox bell housing !

I really need to get out more
 
Struggled with a mud read door panel and no available hacksaw. Also started bolting the roof back on, slow day in other words......
 
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