What have you done to your Freelander today

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Not a big concern on the prop cv joint - looks like when the cap popped at one end it allowed a bit of grease to get between the mating surfaces. Clamped it closed again today and grease has stopped - I’m sure the bolts will close it when it goes back on. It only lost a few ml’s, so no worries there.

Cleaned the underside whilst it was empty and used some rust treatment before giving it all a liberal spraying of wax all over.

New subframe goes on tomorrow. Then the diff back in, then … you get the idea!
 
Thankfully not as much work as some of you. Polished during the week, right before it rained. To-day, fitted new exhaust end piece.

IMG_20241005_163046.jpg
 
Well, I have the new subframe in and torqued up on the F2.
Gave that a nice coating of wax spray also. Leaving that to dry now, while I wait for the Haldex ecm to return.

Last balancing act lift will see the diff/haldex going back in later in the week.

1728218964295.jpeg
 
badlad said:
Thankfully not as much work as some of you. Polished during the week, right before it rained. To-day, fitted new exhaust end piece.

View attachment 327544
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What does it sound like with a stainless exhaust? Im tinkering with an idea with replacing mine with ss but i know from my turbo nutter b*stard days, they're quite noisy. I dont mind a little bit of noise but not a howl.
 
Spanky-spangler said:
What does it sound like with a stainless exhaust? Im tinkering with an idea with replacing mine with ss but i know from my turbo nutter b*stard days, they're quite noisy. I dont mind a little bit of noise but not a howl.
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An FL2 won't be that noisy with a stainless exhaust. Mine wasn't that noisy without an exhaust at all. The turbo takes loads of energy out of the exhaust gasses, including the sound energy.
 
Nodge68 said:
An FL2 won't be that noisy with a stainless exhaust. Mine wasn't that noisy without an exhaust at all. The turbo takes loads of energy out of the exhaust gasses, including the sound energy.
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How odd. My old Calibra turbo was really noisy. In 6th gear, the noise was terrible but that was a full Skorpion ss exhaust inc decat.
 
Freddie17 said:
Well, I have the new subframe in and torqued up on the F2.
Gave that a nice coating of wax spray also. Leaving that to dry now, while I wait for the Haldex ecm to return.

Last balancing act lift will see the diff/haldex going back in later in the week.

View attachment 327578
Click to expand...
I love seeing shiny new bits on a car. Shame it's only you, us nerds and the MOT tester that'll see it, unless you roll it of course. Don't do that.
 
kernowsvenski said:
I love seeing shiny new bits on a car. Shame it's only you, us nerds and the MOT tester that'll see it, unless you roll it of course. Don't do that.
Click to expand...

Woah! Don’t say that - you’ve been in it and know how nice it drives!

Wait till later this week - more shiny bits will appear here (hopefully!)
 
Received the Haldex ecm back today - great service from Matt here;

Land Rover – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd

www.haldexrepairs.co.uk www.haldexrepairs.co.uk

It has had the scrabble mod done, and also had the N373 valve tested at the same time.

Only had a couple of hours today, so reinstalled the N373 and ecm onto the haldex whilst still on the bench. Then loosened off and replaced copper washers on both the haldex and the diff filler bolts, and loosely nipped back up for now, ready to top up fluids when job completed.
Managed to get the diff and haldex lifted back into place on the new subframe and reattach the prop, using new bolts. Easier than taking it out, but that was perhaps me just having more confidence and understand of how it all fits together. Nothing tightened down yet as next job is to install both new driveshafts - hopefully tomorrow.

Oh, and more new bits arrived…

1728503227855.jpeg
 
Fitted an HSE rear parking sensor system.
All cables were present in the vehicle. Just needed switch, dash trim, bumper loom and 4 x 28mm holes in bumper.
 
LR were kind enough to retrieve the keys to the FL1 for me when I've left them in the FL2 (Still getting repaired)

So I tried it, dead vehicle. Battery out after I pulled hard on the clamp that seemed stuck in place - using the battery itself. Recharged overnight.

Battery back in, starts up. That was nice of it
 
Just failed it's damned MOT. "Handbrake <50% efficient". Bastard. I checked it last month when I replaced the front discs and pads; seemed alright to me then. :confused:

Update 1: New shoes & fitting kit on order. I'll fit 'em tomorrow and that should be that.

Update 2: New shoes fitted. Slides scraped clean of rust, lub'd and all back together. MOT passed, no advisories. :)
 
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Rank Amatuer said:
Just failed it's damned MOT. "Handbrake <50% efficient". Bastard. I checked it last month when I replaced the front discs and pads; seemed alright to me then. :confused:
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That's a shame!

Had this on mine, I would adjust it and it would after a few miles of driving stretch again, turns out it was actually the self adjuster pushing the shoes away from the handbrake causing a little binding.

£30 to fix
 
Tonight I'm going to try replacing the totally rotten fuel tank cradle with just some bars instead of a complete cradle, purchased off fleabay.
Question is, is this an easy job or a son of a bitch, how do I get the cradle off without dropping the rear sub frame, can I use an angle grinder to cut the cradle off, is that safe to do so by a diesel tank?
 
Carlbrit said:
Tonight I'm going to try replacing the totally rotten fuel tank cradle with just some bars instead of a complete cradle, purchased off fleabay.
Question is, is this an easy job or a son of a bitch, how do I get the cradle off without dropping the rear sub frame, can I use an angle grinder to cut the cradle off, is that safe to do so by a diesel tank?
Click to expand...
Hi. When we had our Freelander 1 the fuel tank cradle looked a bit scabby. I took it to our local Indy and he replaced the plates rather than swap the whole frame. Said the frame is a pita do to.
 
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