What have you done to your Freelander today

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Nodge68 said:
Strip, clean, lubricate, reassemble and adjust correctly, will cure that issue. ;)
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I've cleaned out the brake dust hoping that would help, it's maddening - the handbrake is working.. maybe the fella was a bit weak :p

Nodge68 said:
Inside or outside?
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Outside, though oddly I polished the two of them at the same time.. one's still shiny and the other looks like a bad DJ was given a smoke machine

Nodge68 said:
Not to bad to do, but if you're keeping the car, make sure you get the correct OE plastic type boot, not a cheap rubber one. ;)
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I'll be sure to get the right one, but right now the fail is a minor so I'm only concerned about the handbrake.. as long as that passes it's through
 
Bounty said:
I've cleaned out the brake dust hoping that would help, it's maddening - the handbrake is working.. maybe the fella was a bit weak :p



Outside, though oddly I polished the two of them at the same time.. one's still shiny and the other looks like a bad DJ was given a smoke machine



I'll be sure to get the right one, but right now the fail is a minor so I'm only concerned about the handbrake.. as long as that passes it's through
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upload_2020-2-4_0-34-9.png


The item I've highlighted in yellow there can cause a lot of problems, the hooked section nearest the part number is meant to twirl freely, often times it doesn't. If you punch the part number into eBay you'll see pics showing it flopping about from one picture to the next, mine could have passed for welded/riveted permanently into position.

Meanwhile, up in Pedronappa, Having spent numerous hours with a rattle gun freeing off front strut t hub bolts, I've broken a strut to hub bolt on the Front Near Side, and spend a day drilling the whore out. Next time I'm at the workshop I'm going to remove all the strut bolts and lager them with an antiseize grease to prevent this kerfuffle in future.

Far too much trigger time on the rattle gun today, my hands are still "buzzin" at nigh on 1AM. I'm beginning to think the warning symbol for HAVS risks ought to be a green oval.
 
Bounty said:
Failed the MOT again for a laugh

Certificate expires tomorrow
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Bounty said:
I've cleaned out the brake dust hoping that would help, it's maddening - the handbrake is working.. maybe the fella was a bit weak :p
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Bugger. I hope you're still laughing though, dude ;)

Might be a bit late for advice given your expiry is tomorrow, but...

Pull the drums off again. Do what everyone else says and free/strip/clean the lot. Also take some course grit sandpaper to the shoes. Drums back on. Slacken the cable at the handbrake again then adjust the ratchety bits in the drums (SMN000040/50 in Jayridium's image) until there's light binding. Trick I found was to leave the brake binding a little then wind up the cable at the lever end 'til its taught but not tight. You should have a few more clicks on the lever now and plenty of bite without having to heave at all. These things were primarily driven by lady hair stylists let's not forget :D
 
Ian burritt said:
I sat thinking If I need a non working rear diff recently also..
but then what happens If the madness of me goes and buys all the missing parts needed for 4 wheel drive..
OH NO
lol.
I had a very shiny rover 75 a few years ago, done a head off and rebuild after taking out its LPG in its entirety, was the petrol 1800 rebuilt with hippo H/D gaskets, new water pump, belts and Idler, drove very well, most impressed, but sold it on when my late wifes Skoda Yeti 1.2 SE arrived with its very good 7 speed auto box (motability car) arrived for her / our use, If only for just 18 months till she left us all/ Yeti went back..
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Missed this one, Ian.

The hippo is a step down from a Skoda Yeti, indeed. Spent most of last year moving RR Evoques et al about the place. Now I'm convinced I can get a FL1 TD4 to drive like that. It's a sickness :rolleyes:

Have you gone and bought all the bits for 4WD, then? Exciting! (?) Jayridium had some sound advice about the inspection (link to post) but it's a sad day when you have to install the IRD blanking plate. Like neutering a dog. Here's mine (6mm thick just to be safe)...

QsVtWYv.jpg
 
Bounty said:
Still just the handbrake, thankfully I've got replacements for everything worth replacing
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When my hand brake failed it WOF on an imbalance a couple of years ago, I bought new everything - shoes, drums, cylinders, springs, clips. It cost surprisingly little even with the shipping of those heavy parts all the way down here (inside a week).

I fitted them and gave the brakes a GOOD bleed and it passed with flying colours.

I had forgotten to order the adjusters, so I cleaned the existing ones up and used them.

The brake pipes separated from the cylinders without any issues, but I think in the UK the salt they put on roads erodes the pipes and they often get mangled removing them from the cylinders, so you would need to make up your own or buy them - and they are not cheap for what they are.
 
In the UK, most of the time when you go to take a brake pipe off, the inside of the nut has rusted up and seized against the pipe resulting in the pipe end looking like a drill but by the time you've got the fitting out of the port. This is, as Gel points out, most likely due to the salt we put on our roads during winter months.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Mine passed today too. Advisories were drop links and a slightly corroded rear brake hose .
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That's not too bad. I'm doing the brakes on project Tonga tomorrow, in readiness for it's rearranged MOT on Friday.
kernowsvenski said:
I'll be looking closely at the drop links this weekend.
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I've been trying out various cheap Ebay drop links on my SE, so I've been charging them annually. :eek:
 
Today I got to the workshop for a bit, doubled up the camber bolts and overly greased them to prevent them seizing in the hubs like the one I mentioned in my last post. So its now sitting with top bolts pointing in, bottom bolts pointing out, given the nominal +/-1.75° adjustment of these bolts that gives me 3.5° camber correction - fingers crossed
 
When I took mine up for the MOT recently I thought the tester was going to put his feet through the floor the amount of effort he was putting into lifting the hand brake to get it up to the pass threshold. Decent tester! You may have seen on the news that, at the moment, it is not possible to get an MOT test in Northern Ireland because they found cracks in the lifts in all the MOT testing stations so have had to stop doing them. Are issuing four month exemption certificates at the moment and there is even talk of making the MOT every two years instead on annually to try and get over the backlog once they start testing again.
 
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