What have you done to your Freelander today

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This is the fault code I currently have so I started with the basics looking at the pipes which then led me to the broken vac tank so thats what I thought was the issue but your replies indicate otherwise, any help is always appreciated guys.
IMG_1653.JPG
 
Probs the solenoid not doing what it is told by the EDC. Check plug and that it operates the turbo actuator once you have vacuum connected.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Probs the solenoid not doing what it is told by the EDC. Check plug and that it operates the turbo actuator once you have vacuum connected.
Click to expand...

So is that the one underneath the drivers side or on the front near the EGR?? So I know where to look Andy. cheers Sully


STC4198 - SOLENOID VALVE - EGR TD4 FREELANDER 1
Supplier: EAC | Brand: PIERBURG | Type: OEM | Product: STC4198[/QUOTE]
 
Underneath, drivers side. Easy access from underneath the vehicle. Also you can see the turbo actuator to see if it moves when fixed. The one near the egr operates the egr!!!
 
SullyUk said:
Ah Ok Is that this one located under the front drivers wheel arch or the one on the front of the engine near the EGR valve?
Click to expand...

It's the boost control solenoid, at the rear of the engine, just to the right side of the turbo. Also a failing MAF will give sluggish low Rpm performance, and delayed starting in some cases too. Basically the EDC compares the air mass going through the MAF to boost pressure, and cuts back on fuelling, if the MAF isn't registering enough air to burn the fuel.

The whole system needs to be in balance, or performance is deliberately reduced, so the burn is as clean as possible.
 
Today I actually got round to test driving it after the TCM change (it didn't misbehave:)), and washed it for the first time in 12 months. :eek:
 
Replaced last turbo pipe - short elbow that comes off the turbo. In the end had to cut it off with Stanley knife and hope like hell I could get new one on. All good. Did notice old hose came off the one side very easily (while the other stuck like glue), and think maybe seal could have been compromised. Also replaced the small vacuum pipe from solenoid to turbo, and that too came off the turbo side very easily.
With all that done now it feels very different to drive, even if the bloody thing still delivers a puff of black smoke when I floor it. Main difference is how much better the gear changes are. I'd like to get my head round the reason for that.
 
Nodge68 said:
Will you be able to fit in an MGF radiator? I've got a new one going cheap! ;)

I don't know if I'll have a FL1 on the road, by the time you're down this way though. My TD4 really isn't playing ball.:(
Click to expand...
Maybe Nodge - is it an alloy one? :D Always good to keep a spare.

Sorry to hear about the naughty TD4. Hope you can get her to play ball: let me know!
 
Fun and games of the "Three Amigo" flavoured variety. The original Wabco-labelled NS front ABS sensor is dropping out, so I have a new replacement from the bay of fleas. It's been in the hub for the last 18 years, but I thought I'd give it a go trying to pull/lever it out of the hub. Predictable results I am afraid:

IMG_3823.JPG

IMG_3824.JPG


Not even abusing a slide hammer could pull the flipping thing out without tearing the metal casing. I even tried drilling, but I presume it has a ferrous magnet core that is impervious to my drill bits. It is, I am afraid, well and truly stuck in there.

And, as you can see, the sensor has gone from intermittently not working to permanently not working LOL

Oh well. It was worth a shot. And now, I'll have to dissemble the hub (like I had to on the other side) and bash and drift the errant dead sensor out. Ugh."Simple job" has morphed into much bigger job. Typical.
 
rob_bell said:
Fun and games of the "Three Amigo" flavoured variety. The original Wabco-labelled NS front ABS sensor is dropping out, so I have a new replacement from the bay of fleas. It's been in the hub for the last 18 years, but I thought I'd give it a go trying to pull/lever it out of the hub. Predictable results I am afraid:

View attachment 191248
View attachment 191249

Not even abusing a slide hammer could pull the flipping thing out without tearing the metal casing. I even tried drilling, but I presume it has a ferrous magnet core that is impervious to my drill bits. It is, I am afraid, well and truly stuck in there.

And, as you can see, the sensor has gone from intermittently not working to permanently not working LOL

Oh well. It was worth a shot. And now, I'll have to dissemble the hub (like I had to on the other side) and bash and drift the errant dead sensor out. Ugh."Simple job" has morphed into much bigger job. Typical.
Click to expand...

What a ballache. Sorry to see things descend to that state. At least you're versed in what's needed to get it fixed. It's got me thinking I should pull and replace mine now while there's still something left on them. Keep yer chin up :D
 
Cheers mate. Probably won't have time to do anything for the next couple of weeks (nice excuse - preparing the MGF race car next weekend and then racing it the following weekend), but yes, having been through the "fun" before will hopefully make things a little easier on this side. Moreover, I won't be needing to replace the lower wishbones and brake calipers this time (which was necessary as part of the last attempt!)

Semi-tempting to start fitting a +40mm lift kit, but I'll resist that for now!
 
rob_bell said:
Maybe Nodge - is it an alloy one?
Click to expand...

As far as I remember, it's an alloy matrix, with plastic tanks. I bought it new for my MGF, which is sadly no more. I've kept the VVC head(I actually have 2) as I thought it would make a nice bit valve head for a standard K series.
I'll have a look at the rad, before your visit. ;)
 
rob_bell said:
but I presume it has a ferrous magnet core that is impervious to my drill bits. It is, I am afraid, well and truly stuck in there.
Click to expand...

You should be able to drill it OK. A decent HSS drill should do OK, but a carbide drill definitely will get the job done. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
You should be able to drill it OK. A decent HSS drill should do OK, but a carbide drill definitely will get the job done. ;)
Click to expand...
I was using a cordless, so perhaps didn't have the welly necessary. Perhaps I'll give it another go - because if there is enough meat, I'll drill and tap for a high tensile M8 or M10 bolt and see whether some slide hammer welly will shift it. Otherwise it will be upright and hub off time - here's what I had to do last time!

IMG_4142.JPG


Expanding ferrous oxide presumably made it extra tight:
IMG_4143.JPG
 
Just dropped the TD4 SE at the MOT garage. I'm hoping it passes, but I don't know this MOT examiner.

Oh and the gearbox decided to do its thing again, although after 10 miles this morning. :mad:
 
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