What have you done to your Freelander today

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MollyNomad said:
Sourced new injector washers and 'O' rings and replaced the injectors that I pulled only to find out the diesel specialist had a 3 day turn around(my bad). Got the bits from Mike Aitken in Ladybank(now called something else but still flying that name) Cleaned what I could externally of injectors with carb cleaner. Reasembled and car went very well until handover this morning. Now smoking again as before and konked out on hill. Big puff of smoke.

Frustrating but expected. I return next month from Spain so will do it all again AND get injectors sorted.....

Now sat in Glasgow airport....about to board...
Click to expand...

Mike Aitken is who I use as well for the wifes FL and my Jeep. Very good garage and certainly know their Landy's :)
 
Elv73 said:
Mike Aitken is who I use as well for the wifes FL and my Jeep. Very good garage and certainly know their Landy's :)
Click to expand...

Have to agree....Next visit home will involve sourcing a pair of injectors to replace the worst ones fitted at the moment. The next pair will be done as soon as I can after(can't afford 4 recon'd ones ATM)
 
Today I have only moved it around the drive... and used the fuse pulling clip from the fuse box on our Starlet backup car....

We have WOFs (MOTs) every 6 months here (on cars registered before 2000), and each time it comes to put a WOF on the ('92) Starlet, the center high brake light is not working. Each time I wiggle the wires around a bit and eventually it works long enough to get a WOF. However, this time it would not play ball and its been a bit of a battle to get it working. I've been chopping out bits of wire that look dodgy and testing with an LED light that is to go on son's car to replace the corroded center brake light on that. I'd get it working put bits back together and it would then not work. Eventually I worked my way back to the rear drivers side light cluster where the wires have been spliced in for the light - it was imported to NZ in '99 and I presume the center brake light was a requirement - the wires in the light cluster were spliced into and wire run inside the door rubber seal up to the top middle near the light stuck on the inside of the window.

Anyway, having got all the way back there, I once again tested with the LED light - nothing - but the light in the cluster was working. I was really confused now. Then I suddenly thought, I wonder if the polarity on the wire to the LED light make a difference... swapped them over and it glowed like a good 'un. Bugger, feck, bugger. All this effort and it turns out it was just a blown bulb and all these irrational testing results were just because I didn't realise that LED lights are dependent on the polarity of the feed (I presume!).

To keep on topic, I then put the fuse puller back in the Freelander.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Today I have only moved it around the drive... and used the fuse pulling clip from the fuse box on our Starlet backup car....

We have WOFs (MOTs) every 6 months here (on cars registered before 2000), and each time it comes to put a WOF on the ('92) Starlet, the center high brake light is not working. Each time I wiggle the wires around a bit and eventually it works long enough to get a WOF. However, this time it would not play ball and its been a bit of a battle to get it working. I've been chopping out bits of wire that look dodgy and testing with an LED light that is to go on son's car to replace the corroded center brake light on that. I'd get it working put bits back together and it would then not work. Eventually I worked my way back to the rear drivers side light cluster where the wires have been spliced in for the light - it was imported to NZ in '99 and I presume the center brake light was a requirement - the wires in the light cluster were spliced into and wire run inside the door rubber seal up to the top middle near the light stuck on the inside of the window.

Anyway, having got all the way back there, I once again tested with the LED light - nothing - but the light in the cluster was working. I was really confused now. Then I suddenly thought, I wonder if the polarity on the wire to the LED light make a difference... swapped them over and it glowed like a good 'un. Bugger, feck, bugger. All this effort and it turns out it was just a blown bulb and all these irrational testing results were just because I didn't realise that LED lights are dependent on the polarity of the feed (I presume!).

To keep on topic, I then put the fuse puller back in the Freelander.
Click to expand...

Freelander saves the day......
 
GrumpyGel said:
I wonder if the polarity on the wire to the LED light make a difference... swapped them over and it glowed like a good 'un. Bugger, feck, bugger. All this effort and it turns out it was just a blown bulb and all these irrational testing results were just because I didn't realise that LED lights are dependent on the polarity of the feed (I presume!).

To keep on topic, I then put the fuse puller back in the Freelander.
Click to expand...
Yes LEDs are polarity dependent and so aren't ideal as test lamps. Unless you want to identify a particular polarity of course. ;)
 
I smashed my rear screen after fitting the new regulator. Everything was going fine until I thought better of asking help to check the glass was running correctly on the way back up. It went up until smash a million little pieces . :) New screen being fitted Friday. At least the demister will work properly.
 
fitted new wiper blades , thanks to the fact I parked it up with the wipers turned on Sunday night !
yes you guessed it , Monday morning ......frozen screen ......ignition on ...... nnnnooooooo
my bloody wiper blade ripped clean off ......!!!!!!
 
Nothing yet. What's happened to my 'Pieces: 1'? 'Pieces: 2' delivered but missing the drums and a set of shoes. Waiting on a call back from DHL, who I have to say have great customer service - rang and the phone was answered immediately by someone that spoke English, they're getting back to me. Its raining today, so don't suppose I'll be doing anything till the weekend anyway.

DeliveryOnHold.jpg
 
Within an hour of ringing DHL the remaining box was with me - fantastic service.

However, I thought it funny only 1 set of shoes was in the box and the missing box only contained the drums. On checking the shoes they delivered to me... they're for the park brake on D3/D4! SFS500012 not SFS000061!

So I'm waiting to see what they're going to do about getting the right ones to me. Will probably take a week and cutting it fine for a road trip we're taking at the end of the month!
 
Today I got round to doing a few jobs that I've been putting off until a dry day. I fitted some wiper linkage repair springs. The ball joints were so floppy that the wiper moved about 3" if wiggled. So I took the scuttle panel off and removed the wiper motor assembly so I could sort it out on the bench.
The springs I got are for BMW vehicles, but not surprisingly fit the FL1 linkage just fine.
20180110_165250.jpg

20180110_135329.jpg
20180110_135335.jpg


So now I have wipers that don't flop about and don't clunk.

I also found a few hours to replace the high pressure fuel pump which has been dripping since for the past 3 months, since I rebuilt it in October. The replacement pump I got was from a Rover 75 and hadn't been long rebuilt. So I now have a TD4 that doesn't drip fuel the whole time it's running. :)
20180110_110523.jpg

I'll rebuild the leaking pump again, when I have time. But for now I'm going to enjoy driving the Freelander again.
 
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Nodge68 said:
Today I got round to doing a few jobs that I've been putting off until a dry day. I fitted some wiper linkage repair springs. The ball joints were so floppy that the wiper moved about 3" if wiggled. So I took the scuttle panel off and removed the wiper motor assembly so I could sort it out on the bench.
The springs I got are for BMW vehicles, but not surprisingly fit the FL1 linkage just fine.
View attachment 138747
View attachment 138748 View attachment 138749

So now I have wipers that don't flop about and don't clunk.

I also found a few hours to replace the high pressure fuel pump which has been dripping since for the past 3 months, since I rebuilt it in October. The replacement pump I got was from a Rover 75 and hadn't been long rebuilt. So I now have a TD4 that doesn't drip fuel the whole time it's running. :)
View attachment 138750
I'll rebuild the leaking pump again, when I have time. But for now I'm going to enjoy driving the Freelander again.
Click to expand...
Did the scuttle panel come off OK?

I'd like to change the plastic covers over the bonnet hinges as mine are all cracked. I should think though that all the ones in breakers will be exactly the same condition, so its $100 for the 2 - that's a weekend's diesel and road user charges for a fishing trip :)
 
GrumpyGel said:
Did the scuttle panel come off OK?

I'd like to change the plastic covers over the bonnet hinges as mine are all cracked. I should think though that all the ones in breakers will be exactly the same condition, so its $100 for the 2 - that's a weekend's diesel and road user charges for a fishing trip :)
Click to expand...

Yes the scuttle panel comes off easy in 5 minutes. The facelift doesn't have the stupid rubber bonnet flaps as it's shaped around the hinges in plastic. It needs to be wiggled round the hinges carefully or it can break. I use a long but fine self tapping screw to pull out the scrivits. Screw the self tapper in a couple of turns, then pull on it and out comes the scrivit without damage.
 
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Nodge68 said:
Today I got round to doing a few jobs that I've been putting off until a dry day. I fitted some wiper linkage repair springs. The ball joints were so floppy that the wiper moved about 3" if wiggled. So I took the scuttle panel off and removed the wiper motor assembly so I could sort it out on the bench.
The springs I got are for BMW vehicles, but not surprisingly fit the FL1 linkage just fine.
View attachment 138747
View attachment 138748 View attachment 138749

So now I have wipers that don't flop about and don't clunk.

I also found a few hours to replace the high pressure fuel pump which has been dripping since for the past 3 months, since I rebuilt it in October. The replacement pump I got was from a Rover 75 and hadn't been long rebuilt. So I now have a TD4 that doesn't drip fuel the whole time it's running. :)
View attachment 138750
I'll rebuild the leaking pump again, when I have time. But for now I'm going to enjoy driving the Freelander again.
Click to expand...

Hello Nodge,

Did you have to re time the fuel pump(using one of those dial gauge things) or was it just a 'plug and play' job??
 
MollyNomad said:
Hello Nodge,

Did you have to re time the fuel pump(using one of those dial gauge things) or was it just a 'plug and play' job??
Click to expand...
The TD4 pump is just like a timing belt driven water pump, only pumping fuel to a high pressure. No timing is needed, but a special sprocket releaser/retainer tool is required to remove it, as is a large Allen key.
 
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Took it in to find a fuel leak on my td4 cleaned up the pump and touch wood the pump is bone dry ??? although the bottom of the sump is moist if that makes sense(might have been oil) .But did find a red wire broke off from the aircon pump and now the aircon clutch clicks in, bit cold to see how good or bad the aircon is me thinks
 
tlo said:
Took it in to find a fuel leak on my td4 cleaned up the pump and touch wood the pump is bone dry ??? although the bottom of the sump is moist if that makes sense(might have been oil) .But did find a red wire broke off from the aircon pump and now the aircon clutch clicks in, bit cold to see how good or bad the aircon is me thinks
Click to expand...
Its not weeping leak off pipes (hoses) by any chance? Had to replace the ones on my L Series.
 
Ty I will have a word with the son in law next time I take it in . He said run it for a few weeks and we will check it again now we have cleaned the area
 
Nodge68 said:
The TD4 pump is just like a timing belt driven water pump, only pumping fuel to a high pressure. No timing is needed, but a special sprocket releaser/retainer tool is required to remove it, as is a large Allen key.
Click to expand...

Cheers Nodge...Ignorance is bliss except when you don't know...B-)...Is that your mum's car (IIRC) and how easy is it to replace all them seal thats everyone keeps going about?...and.....I could go on, better leave it there...
 
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