What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
@htr.
It can take many heating and cooling cycles to get every bit of air out the coolant.

If you can change a HG then, resealing liners are an easy task by comparison. ;)
 
htr said:
Well, all back together again and I've had it running. 1st start was very easy. I wound the motor over without the plugs in to get oil to the valve & cam gear, that worked a treat and the start was straight away and all was quiet:). I took care with the filling of the cooling system too, heater on full, both bleed screws out, filled and when no bubbles in the lower bleed point replaced its screw, continued and did the same with the upper one too, filled coolant tank to the max mark put cap on tight and started it. I let it idle in the driveway for a good 20 to 30 min's, gave it the occasional rev, nothing much maybe 2500 to 3000 rpm. 'Massaged' the radiator and heater hoses as best I could. The bottom hose grew hot and the oil lines to the cooler got hot too so all looked good. When inside and after giving the throttle a prod I could hear gurgling in the heater - I should have paid attention to that. Coolant level was stable so I went for a short gentle drive, about 4 to 5 km round the block via the main road. My low coolant light came on so I stopped and had a look, the coolant was low in the tank, I topped it up and gently drove the last 2km home. Idling in the driveway all seemed well but the coolant tank would suddenly fill to the brim! I siphoned a bit out but it did it again:eek:.The fans came on and it went down to a normal level and when I gave the throttle a tweek it would drop too. I think there was an air lock - bugger! I don't think I've damaged anything like the HG... but have to admit to a fair amount of paranoia!:confused:

I left it and the next afternoon I checked the coolant and it had dropped to about the low mark. I topped it up to the max and started it again this time I left the coolant cap loose. Massaged the hoses again... all seemed to heat up as expected oil pressure and temp all good, coolant temp gauge normal too. I Left it for another day and the coolant had lowered again just below the low mark. Topped up and repeated the warm up process... That was Tuesday and I haven't got back to it to check.

I hope it's just air working its way out of the system. I've not experienced air lock problems before so am both puzzled and concerned.

I hope to God it's not a liner prob', but if it is I've got those shims now so will have to have the head off again... I'll have a practice on my spare motor first to see how hard liners are to reseal with everything in situ before I pull anything apart.
Click to expand...
Well done getting this far, hopefully it's just air working it's way out of the system. If not it could still be something simple, have you gone round all the coolant pipes looking for leaks? I changed the HG on mine and a month or so later I found the header tank empty. I cussed and swore at it for a few days fearing the worst before finding the problem was a heater pipe at the front of the engine.
 
Alibro said:
Well done getting this far, hopefully it's just air working it's way out of the system. If not it could still be something simple, have you gone round all the coolant pipes looking for leaks? I changed the HG on mine and a month or so later I found the header tank empty. I cussed and swore at it for a few days fearing the worst before finding the problem was a heater pipe at the front of the engine.
Click to expand...

Lol - I can certainly relate to those feelings. I'm away from home until Sunday and I'll have another look at it then.
 
Today I did some more mixing and matching of manifolds and VIS motors on the V6 to try to get rid of the tappety noise. At this point it is gone but it wouldn't be the first time I have said that only for it to come back. I am getting lightning quick at swapping out the manifolds though. I also drained off some coolant (dirty water) to replace with proper coolant. I had forgotten what a pain it can be to drain a modern cooling system. With an old time cooling system you only have to undo one rad hose to drain the entire system. removing the bottom hose on the V6 only dropped about a third of the coolant (about 3litres). That should be enough proper coolant to get the boiling point to a proper level.
 
Think I have finally got the towbar wiring grommet to stay in place, realised the cable comes up directly under the boot trim which was putting enough pressure on the grommet to push it out.
 
Just fitted 4 Yokohama GO15s with 70 profile following recommendations on this site. My Goodyear Efficient Grips had done 55k by careful rotating and were all the same at about 2.5 mm remaining ! Two slow punctures made me change them now. The speedo has now gone from about 10% out - Reading 60mph and travelling 55mph to about 5% out and now reading 60mph at travel speed of 57mph. Hopefully distance traveled on a gallon should also increase !!! Look smart too.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Just fitted 4 Yokohama GO15s with 70 profile following recommendations on this site. My Goodyear Efficient Grips had done 55k by careful rotating and were all the same at about 2.5 mm remaining ! Two slow punctures made me change them now. The speedo has now gone from about 10% out - Reading 60mph and travelling 55mph to about 5% out and now reading 60mph at travel speed of 57mph. Hopefully distance traveled on a gallon should also increase !!! Look smart too.
Click to expand...

Good tyres those. If you rotate them carefully, like your Goodyear's the you'll see more miles out of the Yokohama's ;)

It's wise to fit a matching spare too. ;)
 
All four corners have new tyres, Latitude Cross, the first I have put on it since purchase, they replaced two Pirelli (which were run flats which I have been told were the wrong type) and two Michelin (one of which had half the tread of the other). Now spent too much this month, have to wait till next month for anything else.
 
Remove all 16 tappets, cleaning fill with oil ,was a dirty job but is done...
P_20170724_204209.jpg
 
Tony, was that to get rid of a tappet noise?
I have an intermittent noise coming from my V6 and I am starting to suspect that is my issue.
After my 40k trip to work this morning the engine was nice and quiet but after the trip home this afternoon
it was tappety as all getout. I really don`t want to pull the engine down as other than the noise it is running beautifully.
I`ve changed the intake manifold and it isn`t any of the belt driven ancillaries.
Very annoying!
 
broke it :-((
decided to change the vacuum hoses ..
managed to break the hose connection on the vacuum reservoir
on a weekend as well .. grrrrrrr ..
weren't like they needed changing either .. just thought .. ' as they're old '
'n had the new silicon hose here ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
hd3 said:
broke it :-((
decided to change the vacuum hoses ..
managed to break the hose connection on the vacuum reservoir
on a weekend as well .. grrrrrrr ..
weren't like they needed changing either .. just thought .. ' as they're old '
'n had the new silicon hose here ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Click to expand...

That's annoying. Hopefully you get it sorted soon.
 
That's annoying
Click to expand...
yeah :) ..

been putting off the job 'cause i just had this awful premonition
that i'd break a connector trying to remove the old hose ..
then i read that post of your's regarding small leaks in the vacuum
causing turbo delay .. so thought .. ' hey .. no rain .. sunny day .. light wind ' ..

on a positive note: .. turbo solenoid hose swap went ok
easier than i thought .. to reach it with my hand ..
( on ramps .. from underneath 'n thru the wheel arch hole )

hah .. then i tried removing the vacuum reservoir ..
'n thought the welded nut .. wasn't ..
'n tried turning it with a spanner ( homer simpson moment ) ..
anyway .. figured it soon enough ..

ordered LR replacement online ..
could have sought via local LR or BMW outlets i suppose
and Maybe got one today ..
don't fancy trying to drive it by bypassing the v.reservoir
although am curious to see what would happen :)

not a complete crap-out .. need some days to get stuff done around the house

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

installed a brand new 'p' maf yesterday ..
major difference to a high-mileage-but-working-ok one :)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

edit: just found some small copper tubing ..
might go for a temp. repair job ..

6th aug edit :
bit o' copper brake pipe
drill
rubber grommet as a collar
araldite
'nother grommet ..
4 cable ties fer final collars 'n straps 'cause pipe were a bit short

'n:

or :

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Last edited:
Rich in Vancouver said:
Tony, was that to get rid of a tappet noise?
I have an intermittent noise coming from my V6 and I am starting to suspect that is my issue.
After my 40k trip to work this morning the engine was nice and quiet but after the trip home this afternoon
it was tappety as all getout. I really don`t want to pull the engine down as other than the noise it is running beautifully.
I`ve changed the intake manifold and it isn`t any of the belt driven ancillaries.
Very annoying!
Click to expand...

It was not in the plan to do that,but i deal with HG failure ,head off was a opportunity.
yes i have some noise when engine was cold ,about 5 sec and gone.


you can change oil,this is the easy way ,maybe is work maybe don't
good luck.
 
Okay an update, my paranoia is subsiding!:rolleyes: Coolant level is stable and all appears well. I've to loosen the crank pulley and try to centre it more accurately as at idle it wobbles a bit and the PAS tensioner wobbles up and down a bit too. Then it's splash guard and sump guard on, upper outer cam cover and job done.

This whole situation came about due to my radiator leaking and I fitted a new one. Sigh - I had that radiator looked at. Nice fellow at the workshop - sole operator with years of experience. Any he went round and crimped up the clamp thingy whats-it and pressure tested it - it holds 20PSI no problem. So I'm not sure just what the leak was caused by. Now I've got a spare radiator.o_O
 
I worked out my Three Amigos was due to the Off side front right ABS sensor not out putting the same road speed as the other three. (Even thou its only 3 months old) It was a cheap sensor off ebay. Not sure what to buy as it's replacement :rolleyes:
 
htr said:
Okay an update, my paranoia is subsiding!:rolleyes: Coolant level is stable and all appears well. I've to loosen the crank pulley and try to centre it more accurately as at idle it wobbles a bit and the PAS tensioner wobbles up and down a bit too. Then it's splash guard and sump guard on, upper outer cam cover and job done.

This whole situation came about due to my radiator leaking and I fitted a new one. Sigh - I had that radiator looked at. Nice fellow at the workshop - sole operator with years of experience. Any he went round and crimped up the clamp thingy whats-it and pressure tested it - it holds 20PSI no problem. So I'm not sure just what the leak was caused by. Now I've got a spare radiator.o_O
Click to expand...

Make sure the damper pulley is located on the cam pulley keyway correctly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
655
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
244
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
722
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
627
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top