- Posts
- 380
- Location
- Cheshire
MOT passed yesterday after having new front ball joints, anti roll links, rear lines, tracking done and new tyres
What have you done to your Freelander today
- Thread starter Freelaner
- Start date
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,181
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Time for the silver foil fix Nodge?Replaced another tail door fuel cap fuse.
This is the 3rd time in 18 months that it has blown.
It's either too small for the job in hand, or there's an intermittent short somewhere.
That would be entertaining Ali,Time for the silver foil fix Nodge?
although somewhat difficult to do as it's one of those tiny blade fuses.
Bounty
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 255
- Location
- Cheshire, United Kingdom
Took it to work to avoid some (nonexistent) rain, fine on the way there but wasn't really ready to crank for the way back.
I see a pump in my near future
I see a pump in my near future
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,616
- Location
- Truro
Sorted an iffy rear indicator bulb holder, and put £115 of diesel in it
It's frightening how expensive diesel is becoming, it's now about £9 per gallon, which makes my FL2 pretty expensive to run locally on a per mile basis.
Then I picked up my daughter from uni a few weeks ago, it was £130 to fill the tank, although it does do the round trip to Cardiff on under a tank, which is nice.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,562
- Location
- Devon
Celebrated the TD4's 20th birthday and mileometer increased to184k on run to Reading and back.
gjhill
Member
- Posts
- 17
- Location
- Ramsbottom
Not much being as diesel is so expensive
Time maybe to cut my losses and find a ‘new’ project
Time maybe to cut my losses and find a ‘new’ project
Not today but a week or so ago. Made it a twin engine for a short time.
Bringing a 2.5NA that work needed up from Devon. Gained some extra character scratches getting this one in. I think I was starting to get near the limits of what the rear floor could support!
As you can see I have already been doing some weight reduction by getting rid of some trim panels to make up for it.
Bringing a 2.5NA that work needed up from Devon. Gained some extra character scratches getting this one in. I think I was starting to get near the limits of what the rear floor could support!
As you can see I have already been doing some weight reduction by getting rid of some trim panels to make up for it.
Attachments
How about making it into an EV project?
Leomas
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 931
Needed a service as we primarily use it as a tow car for the caravan going from Sussex to Scotland a couple of times a year and the next trip is coming up. The last trip saw us lose all brakes when a hose was cut by rubbing on the disc (I blame the mob I bought it from as it was the corner they rebuilt but cannot prove anything) but fortunately we had just pulled up at the campsite so minimal drama. There was no service history with it when I bought it and even my 'local' LR dealer struggled to find anything so I figured go full beans on the servicing and just swallow the cost.
Needed to add new track rod ends and read brake discs to the service cost so was not cheap but now happy that we are fit to go.
Needed to add new track rod ends and read brake discs to the service cost so was not cheap but now happy that we are fit to go.
Denboy
Active Member
- Posts
- 124
- Location
- Merseyside
Fitted daylight led running lights
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,616
- Location
- Truro
pics please
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,878
- Location
- Scotland
Put four Yokohama Geolander CV 058 tyres on the car.
Washed it and vacuumed the cab (wedding tomorrow)
Washed it and vacuumed the cab (wedding tomorrow)
Jayridium
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,416
- Location
- Pedronapper (Peterhead)
Wait, you're marrying your freelander?
Decided to give my Haldex and rear diff a service, as it's been about 16 months and 5k miles since I rebuilt the replacement diff (which reminds me that I must do the rebuild guide), and as the Haldex is causing a grabbing when tuning on lock, I thought I'd take a look.
The Haldex is a pain to service in the vehicle, but also a pain to remove, so I decided I'd struggle with getting the pump and filter out with it in situ.
The Haldex fluid came out darker than it when in, which isn't a surprise. The pump pre-filter gause wasn't really very dirty, but was cleaned with brake cleaner anyway. I also hooked the pump to my bench power supply, as I'd not tested it while I had the Haldex out last year. Thankfully the pump worked at 12 Volts, drawing just under 1 Amp while running, so I figured that was OK.
I didn't bother replacing the filter, as the pre-filter was so clean.
I refilled it with fluid to the filler plug, and then set the level by drawing 70ml back out.
The diff was a bit of a concern though. When I removed the magnetic drain plug, I was shocked to see the magnet had picked up metallic fuzz.
Not much, but I'd have expected to see almost nothing.
Also the oil came out with that horrible metallic sheene, which is indicative of wear.
I rebuilt the rear diff exactly to the official LR rebuild instructions, so I was a bit alarmed to see it wearing after just 5k miles. I used top quality oil, which I know to be very good at protecting moving gears and bearings.
I've refilled it with the same high quality oil, in the hope that the metal is just the new bearings bedding in, although that seems unlikely.
I think I'll be changing the oil annually, even if just to keep the particulates down to minimum levels.
), and as the Haldex is causing a grabbing when tuning on lock, I thought I'd take a look.The Haldex is a pain to service in the vehicle, but also a pain to remove, so I decided I'd struggle with getting the pump and filter out with it in situ.
The Haldex fluid came out darker than it when in, which isn't a surprise. The pump pre-filter gause wasn't really very dirty, but was cleaned with brake cleaner anyway. I also hooked the pump to my bench power supply, as I'd not tested it while I had the Haldex out last year. Thankfully the pump worked at 12 Volts, drawing just under 1 Amp while running, so I figured that was OK.
I didn't bother replacing the filter, as the pre-filter was so clean.
I refilled it with fluid to the filler plug, and then set the level by drawing 70ml back out.
The diff was a bit of a concern though. When I removed the magnetic drain plug, I was shocked to see the magnet had picked up metallic fuzz.
Also the oil came out with that horrible metallic sheene, which is indicative of wear.
I rebuilt the rear diff exactly to the official LR rebuild instructions, so I was a bit alarmed to see it wearing after just 5k miles. I used top quality oil, which I know to be very good at protecting moving gears and bearings.
I've refilled it with the same high quality oil, in the hope that the metal is just the new bearings bedding in, although that seems unlikely.
I think I'll be changing the oil annually, even if just to keep the particulates down to minimum levels.
htr
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,556
- Location
- Central Otago, Southern New Zealand
Each oil change I swap the tyres from front to rear and vice versa trying to achieve 'even' tyre wear. My spare tyre is still brand new. I moved the rear wheels to the front and one front to the rear, the other I've mounted as my spare. The new tyre I've fitted to the rear driver's side. New tyres should go on the rear in a FL. That new one on the back axel with one that's about half worn should be alright shouldn't it?
I also replaced my A/C and alternator belt tensioner pulley as the old one was the original from 1998! It was getting quite noisey.
I also replaced my A/C and alternator belt tensioner pulley as the old one was the original from 1998! It was getting quite noisey.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,616
- Location
- Truro
Replaced a duff front washer motor. Most helpful in this dry dusty weather!
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