What have you done to your Freelander today

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Brakes are fine. 6 3x2 slabs & 4 bags cement might have had something to do with it. I just had to press the pedal a lot harder than when car empty. She didn’t roll much in the corners though :D
 
Rank Amatuer said:
Brakes are fine. 6 3x2 slabs & 4 bags cement might have had something to do with it. I just had to press the pedal a lot harder than when car empty. She didn’t roll much in the corners though :D
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What year is it? The pre 2000 cars had terrible brakes even on a good day but post 2000 should be OK even fully laden.
Or was it 2001? I forget. :oops:
 
Hippo said:
Did the load slide forwards?
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image001 (2).jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
For not pressing the brake pedal hard enough, with the vehicle more heavily loaded than normal.
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I've had really bad experiences with Delphi brake pads whereby the pedal felt as though even if you pressed the pedal hard enough to rip the master cylinder off the bulkhead you'd still have braking distances comparable to those of an aircraft carrier. I wonder what pads @Rank Amatuer is using? Could they have a factor in this?
 
Jayridium said:
I've had really bad experiences with Delphi brake pads whereby the pedal felt as though even if you pressed the pedal hard enough to rip the master cylinder off the bulkhead you'd still have braking distances comparable to those of an aircraft carrier. I wonder what pads @Rank Amatuer is using? Could they have a factor in this?
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I've not had an issue with Delphi pads myself, and I'd normally fit them.

This time I used an Advanced Factors brake kit, which seems pretty good so far. I noticed a huge increase in brake efficiency after fitting the AF kit, along with new front calipers, compared to the worn out crap that was fitted.

Screenshot_20220320-140714_Gallery.jpg
 
In Scotland most garages get their parts from Dingbro, who are a wholesale motor factor offering rapid, typically same day delivery to garages, their go to pads are delphi, and because of this arrangement, I've twice had delphi pads fitted by a garage and felt the car was left with a very wooden brake pedal compared to the mintex / red stuff pads the delphis replaced. Now, as a rule, I won't even open a delphi brake pad box.

If everything was worn and knacked, fitting anything will be an improvement, but since you've done the full monty on the brakes, you were guaranteed good results. It's interesting to hear good things about thiseinbach kit you've fitted, I've never heard of them, but since you like them I'll keep them in the back of my mind. I've aye found it's good to have a few good-but-budget-brands up your sleave, likes of tyres, twenty years ago fulda, toyo and nexen's sportier offerings were nigh on as good as good year's sports tyre (eagle F1), but a fraction of the price. These days I'd go for Uniroyal rainsports which are about as good as michelin pilot sports, but about two thirds of the price.
 
Drove it for the first time in 7 days of isolation, after testing positive for Covid.

Secondly received a box containing some service goodies for the Haldex.
20220321_082410.jpg

Although it's only been a year since its last service, the shudder when turning is telling me there's an issue with it. I figured another service is worth a try, before delving deeper into the issue.
Taking the Haldex off, will also give me an opportunity to check the diff pinion bearings for pre-load, I'll also change the diff oil at the same time.
 
Early FL1 brakes - yes they are not great. Mine are border-line at our 6 monthly WoF test [ your MoT], getting a reading in the low 50s on the brake performance meter. I use stock type Brembo pads. Are there better pads / shoes which would give greater stopping ability?
 
Today I actually got round to installing some goodies to the FL2, and discovered some rust too, which needed treatment.
So what were the goodies I installed I hear you ask.
I fitted a rear spoiler to the tail door, and the later tail door handle, complete with a new release button and LED numberplate lights.

First off I needed the temperature to increase, as the spoiler is stuck on with double sided 3M body tape, which needs to be warm to stick properly.

While waiting for the day to warm up, I set about removing the original tail door handle, which I think is about the most ugly design imaginable.
20220322_165958.jpg

First off the interior trim needs removing, which is literally 2 screws and 6 pop studs, and it's off.

The original handle is held on by 6 nuts, which are threaded onto matching studs sticking out the body side of the handle.
Once removed the handle just lifted off, revealing rust where it touches the bodywork. :(
20220322_105809.jpg
A bit of a clean up was needed, then the rust was treated, and the affected area was painted in Bonda primer.
20220322_113434.jpg


I then had to mark out the holes for the longer handle, drilling 8mm holes where needed, and painted the drilled edges to prevent future rust.
The handle was then fitted, along with the new LED numberplate lights, and new release switch assembly.

I then cleaned the boot top with IP and stuck the spoiler on to the cleaned surface, making sure it was as carefully aligned as possible.
20220322_165855.jpg

I think it looks loads better than before, and because the longer handle is secured with more bolts, it feels much better to open.

I also took the opportunity to install a couple of sound deadening pads to the boot panel, before refitting the boot interior trim.
20220322_141041.jpg


Of course now that's all done, it means I've no excuses to do the Haldex and rear diff service tomorrow.
I also plan to fit a new air filter, and a new MAF,ias I'm sure it must be at the end of its life after 120k miles.
 
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