Jayridium
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EGR? Wash your mouth out with soapy water, and your inlet manifold, after you've fitted a removal kit 
What have you done to your Freelander today
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Jayridium said:EGR? Wash your mouth out with soapy water, and your inlet manifold, after you've fitted a removal kit
I blanked the EGR 4 yrs ago when I cleaned the manifold don't worry, the bit I was referring too is the water cooled part which the EGR valve connects to.Jayridium
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Good Man! - When I removed my EGR I went genocidal on that system, I removed the cooler entirely, blanked the flange on the manifold, plugged the coolant lines with short hoses on the end of the hard pipes with m12 bolts and jubilee clips, then put a grinder through the sticky out mushroom that the corrugated metal flexi pipe from the EGR goes onto, removed the vacuum solenoid valve plug and plugged the vacuum line going to it.
andyfreelandy
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If you replace it, get a pipe off a manual car. For reasons only known to LR they don't have an egr cooler and the associated pipework.
Jayridium
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Isn't that because the auto vehicles have an ATF cooler also fed by this pipe, or am I confusing myself? (it' been a while since I was in that vicinity)
andyfreelandy
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Different pipe feed to atf. Not sure why a cooler is needed on the EGR just because it's an auto.
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I've managed to find someone to weld it & should get it back tomorrow.
I've just looked at the price for the manual p/work & it's dearer (for less) £270.50 v £216.73 ! wacko.
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Got a call after my last post to say my pipe was done. I've just got back from collecting it & he's done a cracking job (£25) so just got to get a new pipe to stat O-ring & give it a repaint then I can start reassembly .
. 
kernowsvenski
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Splendid stuff!Got a call after my last post to say my pipe was done. I've just got back from collecting it & he's done a cracking job (£25) so just got to get a new pipe to stat O-ring & give it a repaint then I can start reassembly
andyfreelandy
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That'll outlive the rest of the pipe and possibly the car!!
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That'll outlive the rest of the pipe and possibly the car!!
Yeah typical piece of over engineering. Just going to pressure test it this morning then give it a coat of paint ready for install tomorrow.I must apologise at this point as I keep calling you andyfreelander in my other posts
, I'll send myself to bed early with no beer tonight & promise not to do it again Jayridium
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That's a nice bit of workmanship. @Alibro the way that is "welded" on with the copper wire is the "tig brazing" I've been suggesting you use / get done for your EV battery cables, as you can see by the price Andy paid, it's not even that expensive - might be worth keeping that in the back of your mind in case the welding wire doesn't work out for you?
andyfreelandy
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I must apologise at this point as I keep calling you andyfreelander in my other posts
No worries, I have been called worse!!
Alibro
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Thanks mate, I may get that done for the other boxes but there have been changes to this one. For a couple of reasons I'll be using 35mm2 welding cable but I'll update the EV thread when I get a bit further.
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Been having a right polava with her TD4
Tried to change the simple job of changing the drop links
The wheel nut key was ruined by the the overuse of rattle guns which then I had to get another from Guy Salmon LR at Knutsford £18 cant grumble then noticed the after I had removed the drop links the ones I had bought were 25mm to long! ffs!
Then I went onto shearing the wheel stud off ffs so had to replace that then the aux belt which was changed March 2020 was cracked then the tensioner bolt was rounded off! b*stard thing!
One b*stard thing after another at the minute with the TD4!
Tried to change the simple job of changing the drop links
The wheel nut key was ruined by the the overuse of rattle guns which then I had to get another from Guy Salmon LR at Knutsford £18 cant grumble then noticed the after I had removed the drop links the ones I had bought were 25mm to long! ffs!
Then I went onto shearing the wheel stud off ffs so had to replace that then the aux belt which was changed March 2020 was cracked then the tensioner bolt was rounded off! b*stard thing!
One b*stard thing after another at the minute with the TD4!
Yikes! Nightmare!
Lots of dodgy drop links on the bay of fleas - but happy so far with Delco items I fitted a year ago...
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Know how ya feel, TD4 water leak now the D2 has a osf wheel bearing that's kaput !
Anyway, lemforder for the drop links & contitech aux & air con belts. I've had belts that only lasted 10-15,000 miles & drop links about a 1,000 miles !
Aux 5 PK 2030
A/C 5 PK 884 if fitted.
4Bee4Bee
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Yep, nearly every job I'm doing on the 18 year old TD4 at the moment is having to enlist the assistance of an angle grinder, bolt removers, or Irwin sockets, to remove whatever's been previously chewed, is stuck, or decides to snap.
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