What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Bought a new motor for it.
IMG_20200817_144914292.jpg


Only need to spend the next 12 -24 months getting it out of it's current home and into Blue then figure out how to make it work. :eek:
 
Sprayed the rear wash wipe with silicon to get the hinge working as it was seized a bit. Now it flexes as it wipes so it keeps the blade on the glass in all positions.
 
Today I fitted a replacement piston to my FL2, which replaced the one that had basically been destroyed my that pesky nut a previous mechanic dropped in the intake somewhere.

Changing a piston on a FL2 is a long winded job, as loads of things need removing first, but it's done now, so now on to finishing the head rebuild, ready for installation in the next couple of weeks.
 
Today I finished putting back the components I needed to remove last week whilst changing the piston.

I also repaired the starter solenoid trigger bolt, which snapped when taking the starter out a few weeks ago. I had bodged it, but wasn't happy, so I put a small offcut of nylon6,6 in my lathe, and machined up a spacer/insulator and fitted a new brass bolt, and soldered a ring terminal to the solenoid wire. I also fitted a new contactor set in the solenoid, so hopefully the starter is now sorted for the rest of the life of the vehicle.


20200829_182530.jpg
20200829_182501.jpg
 
Last edited:
This morning I thought I'd address some of the surface corrosion issues around the arch liner securing studs. This is quite clearly caused by the liner fretting against the paint, while trapping moisture behind it. Hopefully the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter I used, overcoated in Waxoil underbody protection will give the vehicle a good few more years. I also took the opportunity to de-rust and paint the PS pipes, which looked a bit rushed too.
20200830_114247.jpg

I also fitted a new turbo pipe (visible in this picture) in putrid orange :eek:, but at least it's the newer silicone type.
 
Last edited:
No, that's international hazard orange. It warns you of another place to not drop nuts and bolts into. Let's hope that it works! Do you not find that Waxoyl and similar trap moisture in and cause their own corrosion problems?
 
paul99 said:
No, that's international hazard orange. It warns you of another place to not drop nuts and bolts into.
Click to expand...
LOL!!
It's a good reminder, to avoid nuts entering the engine air intake. :eek:
paul99 said:
Do you not find that Waxoyl and similar trap moisture in and cause their own corrosion problems?
Click to expand...

I clean off the area to be treated with water and a wire brush, which hopefully washes away any salt and loose rust. I then treat the rust with Hydrate 80, which I know to be good. After that's dry, I use Bonda Primer, then the Waxoil stone chip stuff, which is a combination of products that I've found works ok. :)
 
andyfreelandy said:
Sold the V6. Then there were 6...
Click to expand...

It went for a decent amount too Andy.

I sold my immaculate 2001 V6 to the mother in law in 2014, it had less miles than yours, and was the same spec. I let her have it for £1200, after much persuasion from the wife. What I should have done was put it on Ebay, and probably got over twice as much. :mad:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
650
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
244
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
722
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
627
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top