What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Not today, but yesterday, in the most horrendous rain and hail showers. I had to replace the 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve on the mother in law's V6. I was planning on replacing the diff mounts too, but I was too wet and cold to be bothered with them. I didn't even replace the litre or so of lost transmission fluid from the solenoid change. I'll top it up on Monday evening, when she comes round to go out with the wife.
At least the box now works correctly, with nice smooth gear changes again.

I'm planning of doing a non-destructive investigation on the failed solenoid, so I can see if they're repairable in the future.
 
Had a little play in the snow yesterday,childish :oops:
 

Attachments

  • 10EF02BF-E242-468E-A803-4A77CCA09D0B.jpeg
    10EF02BF-E242-468E-A803-4A77CCA09D0B.jpeg
    220.6 KB · Views: 183
I investigated the slight weep from the thermostat housing yesterday. I can't see any damage.

In principle, removing the coolant rail and thermostat ought to be straightforward. There's only three screws holding it to the block: one on the thermostat housing, and two at the other end of the block holding the coolant rail. But the coolant rail is also used as a bracket to hold the engine wiring loom, and of course, with all the coolant hoses connected, things are pretty tight.

I had a go trying to separate the coolant rail from the thermostat, but with the inlet manifold in the way, this was proving challenging. Moreover, I was concerned getting everything back together was going to be even more of a challenge...! Also, when I was tugging on the coolant rail, coolant could be seen weeping from between the two halves of the thermostat housing.

Hmm.

I may need to bite the bullet and replace one or both the thermostat housing and the coolant rail - but to do this and maintain sanity will require me to remove the inlet manifold and make some space in which to work. I didn't have enough time to do this over this last weekend, so thought I'd put everything back together and tighten the three screws holding the two halves of thermostat housing.

Everything looks a little dryer now - but I suspect only a temporary fix before I need to take everything apart when I have time. In the meantime, I'll keep an eye on things.

Also, it was one of those days where I spent more time looking for dropped 10mm sockets between the block and IRD (my cheap Lidl endoscope proved its worth!) than actually doing anything more useful - and in my experience, when little things like that start to frustrate you, best walk away! LOL

Thermostat replacement - to be continued.... :rolleyes:
 
Having just got a FL2 2010 td4 auto HSE+ 93k which had a Service History with main agents up to a year/10k ago. Asked myself should I get a b service at the Main Stealer to keep it going - or not as I have not paid a stealer ever in circa half a million miles - got a quote - chin dropped - and decided instead to buy a full set of correct spec oils plus all filters for everything from pollen filter through engine,gearbox, front diff, Haldex to rear diff - and a Hawkeye Total unlocked for all Landys (we have 3 freelanders and a disco sport in the family) and about £100 change - NO BRAINER - it will never be sold through a dealer and I will keep all material receipts and service records for any future buyer to peruse.
 
rob_bell said:
I investigated the slight weep from the thermostat housing yesterday. I can't see any damage.

In principle, removing the coolant rail and thermostat ought to be straightforward. There's only three screws holding it to the block: one on the thermostat housing, and two at the other end of the block holding the coolant rail. But the coolant rail is also used as a bracket to hold the engine wiring loom, and of course, with all the coolant hoses connected, things are pretty tight.

I had a go trying to separate the coolant rail from the thermostat, but with the inlet manifold in the way, this was proving challenging. Moreover, I was concerned getting everything back together was going to be even more of a challenge...! Also, when I was tugging on the coolant rail, coolant could be seen weeping from between the two halves of the thermostat housing.

Hmm.

I may need to bite the bullet and replace one or both the thermostat housing and the coolant rail - but to do this and maintain sanity will require me to remove the inlet manifold and make some space in which to work. I didn't have enough time to do this over this last weekend, so thought I'd put everything back together and tighten the three screws holding the two halves of thermostat housing.

Everything looks a little dryer now - but I suspect only a temporary fix before I need to take everything apart when I have time. In the meantime, I'll keep an eye on things.

Also, it was one of those days where I spent more time looking for dropped 10mm sockets between the block and IRD (my cheap Lidl endoscope proved its worth!) than actually doing anything more useful - and in my experience, when little things like that start to frustrate you, best walk away! LOL

Thermostat replacement - to be continued.... :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


Keep us updated on this Rob. My thermostat housing is weeping (as am I at the thought of doing it), and since winter is approaching, and my stat has gone it'll have to be done sooner rather than later. Are using a genuine LR stat and cover? I intend to use an LR one myself but if there is a quality OEM one I might go for it.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Keep us updated on this Rob. My thermostat housing is weeping (as am I at the thought of doing it), and since winter is approaching, and my stat has gone it'll have to be done sooner rather than later. Are using a genuine LR stat and cover? I intend to use an LR one myself but if there is a quality OEM one I might go for it.
Click to expand...

Rob's Fl1 is a 1.8 K series, which is very different and much cheaper than the stat housing for the TD4.
 
My K turbo has been running brilliantly for nearly 2000 miles.

I MOTd it this week and unfortunately it failed on a few minor things.

A slight leak in the exhaust, new discs and pads, a new front off side brake pipe due to rust and a new near side bottom wishbone ball joint.

A trip to the Scrappy though gave me a set of composite targa tops, tinted rear quarter windows (3dr) and a new rear roof with tinted quarter windows.

I also picked up some powerfood mirrors and control panel, hopefully I can upgrade the mirrors and have it all working.
 
Backing out of the carport last Friday I managed to rip the cover off the driver's door mirror. The cover was undamaged but the rim it snaps onto broke in several pieces - :( Quite a tricky job gluing it together. I didn't realise that the mirrors were heated! I've a replacement mirror on that side and you can see the element beneath the replacement.

It's interesting how these vehicles keep us on our toes. Everything has been going well, very well which is a worry if you know what I mean. Recently after a long hot run towing a moderate load on a trailer I checked the fluids as you do and saw the coolant had dropped by about 8mm. No leaks seen anywhere so I topped up... Again another long hot run with the trailer and the A/C on - but the fluid level was stable with none missing. Where does it go? Is there some 'void' in the block where coolant can go when things get pretty hot that doesn't fill with the initial coolant refill? Coolant temp always sits at the halfway mark but the oil temp went up to 125ºC on the long pulls uphill - normally is around 100ºC.
 
htr said:
Where does it go? Is there some 'void' in the block where coolant can go when things get pretty hot that doesn't fill with the initial coolant refill?
Click to expand...

It can take months of running to clear all the air out the system.
So if the system has been drained recently, it's entirely possible for small amounts of air to take time to clear, sometimes prompted by higher than normal engine temps.

Keep an eye on the levels and investigate any sudden coolant loss immediately. ;)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: htr
A bit late with my reply, but yes, a 1.8 K-series. And I have a couple of spare thermostat housings (and even a couple of spare coolant rails) knocking around in the garage at the moment - just a biggish investment in time and energy to do it properly.

Anyone know where you can get the grey wiring loom ties from?
 
If it's any help, I put a new engine in my FL1. It ran with no coolant loss for a few weeks, then suddenly it dropped by about half a tank very quickly. I check it regularly. I panicked a little but since that drop, it's not dropped much at all.

As nodge says, it could just be a bit of trapped air getting through.
 
My monthly tyre pressure check yesterday revealed that my right rear tyre was a little low in pressure. EEK!

An investigation resulted in me finding a screw embedded in the tread. A hasty trip to the local tyre place today and a tenner handed over will hopefully see that my regular checking keeps me from a big bill...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
650
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
244
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
722
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
627
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top