It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
Full Fat Range Rover.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
What have you done to your Freelander today
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It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
Skinny Mike
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You mean, "money pit".It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
Full Fat Range Rover.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
Well, if that's what you fancy, go for it. Just go in with your eyes wide open. They're full of electrical gremlins, and don't get me started on the air suspension
I looked at a Range Rover and bought a Grand Cherokee instead, if that doesn't say something I don't know what will.
Mike
You mean, "money pit".
Well, if that's what you fancy, go for it. Just go in with your eyes wide open. They're full of electrical gremlins, and don't get me started on the air suspension
I looked at a Range Rover and bought a Grand Cherokee instead, if that doesn't say something I don't know what will.
Mike
I'll definitely do that Mike
I've had a D3 in the past, which was also a money pit. In 2 years my D3 consumed well over £3K in parts, although that did include 4 new Pirelli Scorpion ATRs and a wheel referb.It's only just an idea at the moment. I actually like being able to work on the FL1 for peanuts. Although the TC lock up clutch has started to shudder, after I towed a 1000Kg trailer at the weekend.
Skinny Mike
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Did you turn the synergy down before towing? I don't like it over setting 2, due to the extra load on the autobox. It'll probably settle down if you put it on setting 1 for a week and drive like a saint.I'll definitely do that Mike
It's only just an idea at the moment. I actually like being able to work on the FL1 for peanuts. Although the TC lock up clutch has started to shudder, after I towed a 1000Kg trailer at the weekend.
Don't get me wrong about the RR, if you know what it'll cost, and how often it WILL go wrong, then its a real challenge. Have a look through the Rimmerbros catalogue first to give you an idea of costs, just don't drink anything at the same time, you'll choke
Mike
Skinny Mike
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No Mike, I didn't turn the synergy down. I was flat out up a 20% hill in 4th when the TC locked with a thump. It's thumped in ever since, which is annoying.Did you turn the synergy down before towing? I don't like it over setting 2, due to the extra load on the autobox. It'll probably settle down if you put it on setting 1 for a week and drive like a saint.
Don't get me wrong about the RR, if you know what it'll cost, and how often it WILL go wrong, then its a real challenge. Have a look through the Rimmerbros catalogue first to give you an idea of costs, just don't drink anything at the same time, you'll choke
Mike
I'm going to change the fluid a couple of times, as it's been on my "To Do" list for 18 months
So it's probably partly my fault . If the fluid change doesn't fix it. I'll put in some Dr Tranny Shudder Fix. That should do the trick for a while. I might start looking for a replacement TC, just in case.
Skinny Mike
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OopsNo Mike, I didn't turn the synergy down. I was flat out up a 20% hill in 4th when the TC locked with a thump. It's thumped in ever since, which is annoying.
I'm going to change the fluid a couple of times, as it's been on my "To Do" list for 18 months
Hopefully it's the fluid and some fresh stuff will sort it, although I'd hold off on the Dr tranny til a second change, one this month followed by one next month to have the maximum effect. Fingers crossed.
Mike
GrumpyGel
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Ouch!It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
Full Fat Range Rover.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
I have to say, I'm quite drawn to the P38s at the mo or maybe a late (viscous) RRC while they are still (relatively) cheap. But I know if I get one I won't use it because I won't stump up the cash to put petrol in it! So its pretty pointless. I don't fancy going back to the heavy weight maintenance either - I remember the ball ache working on the Disco, its a pleasure working on Freelander.
Stumping up the fuel is 1 thing, stumping the cost of keeping an L322 maintained takes it to a whole different level!
GrumpyGel
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Spent a couple of hours fitting the replacement engine mount and lower tie bar today. No naughty words, it all went very easily Its never quite as easy as the Rave manual makes out though! In jacking the engine it just jacked the car up with it. I expected the chassis to lift as I took the weight of the engine off it - but it was obviously going to high. The bolt from the mount was catching in the bracket and I had visions of it all of a sudden going and the chassis drop a foot and causing all sorts of grief. So I lowered it down and then started whacking the engine mount with an iron bar and #1 tool as I lifted it - this time it went well. Rave also said to fix the mount in place before lowering the engine - but that wasn't going to work as the top of the engine rocked back when lifted - probably on the lower tie bar. So I slotted the mount into the bracket then lowered the engine which lined everything up OK.
TBH, the old mount looked in perfect condition - not sure what the WOF tester found to be at fault. I hope he's not going to say it was the upper tie bar - that wasn't perfect, but not kaput. I replaced the lower tie bar just as a precaution, I've never replaced it and it may be original. Once again, it wasn't in to bad condition.
While I was under there, I noticed that the oil filter had worked its way loose again. That's the 2nd time I've fixed something on the car and while giving it a check over found the oil filter loose. I'm going to have to put a bit more ooomph into tightening them when I service it - I know its going to be a pain getting it off for the next service then but at least I'll still have an engine to service!
Its never quite as easy as the Rave manual makes out though! In jacking the engine it just jacked the car up with it. I expected the chassis to lift as I took the weight of the engine off it - but it was obviously going to high. The bolt from the mount was catching in the bracket and I had visions of it all of a sudden going and the chassis drop a foot and causing all sorts of grief. So I lowered it down and then started whacking the engine mount with an iron bar and #1 tool as I lifted it - this time it went well. Rave also said to fix the mount in place before lowering the engine - but that wasn't going to work as the top of the engine rocked back when lifted - probably on the lower tie bar. So I slotted the mount into the bracket then lowered the engine which lined everything up OK.TBH, the old mount looked in perfect condition - not sure what the WOF tester found to be at fault. I hope he's not going to say it was the upper tie bar - that wasn't perfect, but not kaput. I replaced the lower tie bar just as a precaution, I've never replaced it and it may be original. Once again, it wasn't in to bad condition.
While I was under there, I noticed that the oil filter had worked its way loose again. That's the 2nd time I've fixed something on the car and while giving it a check over found the oil filter loose. I'm going to have to put a bit more ooomph into tightening them when I service it - I know its going to be a pain getting it off for the next service then but at least I'll still have an engine to service!
Alibro
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Spent a couple of hours fitting the replacement engine mount and lower tie bar today. No naughty words, it all went very easily
TBH, the old mount looked in perfect condition - not sure what the WOF tester found to be at fault. I hope he's not going to say it was the upper tie bar - that wasn't perfect, but not kaput. I replaced the lower tie bar just as a precaution, I've never replaced it and it may be original. Once again, it wasn't in to bad condition.
While I was under there, I noticed that the oil filter had worked its way loose again. That's the 2nd time I've fixed something on the car and while giving it a check over found the oil filter loose. I'm going to have to put a bit more ooomph into tightening them when I service it - I know its going to be a pain getting it off for the next service then but at least I'll still have an engine to service!
I've always tightened oil filters as tight as I can by hand and never had one come loose. Yes they can be a bit tight to take off but I've one of these and never had a problem.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Three-Leg...385306&hash=item3f5bd67ead:g:RaYAAOSwImRYbTNG
Well done sorting the mount out GG. I'm not sure why the mount would fail the WOF though. They are hydromounts. This means they are full of a sticky fluid. It's very obvious when they fail, as the fluid leaks out. The lower wishbone bushes on my D3 were hydrobushes. It was very obvious that they had failed, as they oozed the fluid out. They only did about 12K miles too, which is one reason I wasn't sorry to see it go.
If your upper tie bar has failed? You can fit the large bush from the lower bar into the upper bar if you need.
If your upper tie bar has failed? You can fit the large bush from the lower bar into the upper bar if you need.
GrumpyGel
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I've made myself a tool. Block of wood with 4 screws poking out that I hammer into the filter and a length of wood with more screws poking out at the end that slots into the first as a lever. Makes a right mess though
GrumpyGel
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Interesting about the ties bar bushes being the same. Might come in useful.Well done sorting the mount out GG. I'm not sure why the mount would fail the WOF though. They are hydromounts. This means they are full of a sticky fluid. It's very obvious when they fail, as the fluid leaks out. The lower wishbone bushes on my D3 were hydrobushes. It was very obvious that they had failed, as they oozed the fluid out. They only did about 12K miles too, which is one reason I wasn't sorry to see it go.
If your upper tie bar has failed? You can fit the large bush from the lower bar into the upper bar if you need.
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And not for the first time
Alibro
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I bought poly bushes for a K series upper and lower tie bars but they transferred a lot of vibration. I think the tie bars bushes are the same as the one on my old MGF so probably a few other Rover group cars with the same bushes.
All the Rover/MG/Freelander large bushes are dimensionally the same. They do vary in hardness between various vehicles. From memory, the ZS180 lower tie bar has the hardest bush. This was added in early 2003 by way of a recall to all earlier 180s I remember as my 3 month old ZS180 had to go in for it to be changed. I remember feeling the difference, when I picked the car up. The power unit felt more stable under hard acceleration.
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GrumpyGel
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Today I wanted to top up the oil in my gearbox. Its been in 4 years since I changed it and I haven't checked it in that time. I've had a juddery clutch and was thinking oil from the gearbox is escaping into the bell housing.
I had the remainder of the 2.5L Penrite TRANS GEAR 75W-80 (MTF94) that I used to fill the box - but there was very little in there, so bought another 1L bottle rather than doing the job twice!
Anyway I cracked the fill bolt, undid it and a bit of oil leaked out - still full
Checked the oil that came out and it looked brand spanking new
So $17 on oil that wasn't needed - but I'll take that hit for a good result!
I really am a messy bugger though. The car has always "left its mark" and I only have to think about doing work on the car... and oil spills out everywhere. I should paint the drive in a wipe clean paint!
Just seen all the messy oily finger prints on the A Bar where I've pulled myself up putting the under tray back on!
I had the remainder of the 2.5L Penrite TRANS GEAR 75W-80 (MTF94) that I used to fill the box - but there was very little in there, so bought another 1L bottle rather than doing the job twice!
Anyway I cracked the fill bolt, undid it and a bit of oil leaked out - still full
Checked the oil that came out and it looked brand spanking new
So $17 on oil that wasn't needed - but I'll take that hit for a good result!
I really am a messy bugger though. The car has always "left its mark" and I only have to think about doing work on the car... and oil spills out everywhere. I should paint the drive in a wipe clean paint!
Just seen all the messy oily finger prints on the A Bar where I've pulled myself up putting the under tray back on!
GrumpyGel
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Took the car for a drive today (to get the box oil). The cover and under tray weren't on so it was a bit noiseier than normal. The engine said thanks though for almost 2L of oil I put in it as it was way past 'min' and only just clinging to the bottom of the stick when I checked (did I say the filter was loose!).
It was only 1 short drive, but the gear changes felt smoother. I'm wondering if the mount I took off was past its sell by date. Although it looked in perfect condition with no visible wear to it at all - it was virtually rock solid. The new mount is much more flexible and while its still a firm piece of rubber (hyrdomount?) it does have some play in it.
(did I say the filter was loose!).It was only 1 short drive, but the gear changes felt smoother. I'm wondering if the mount I took off was past its sell by date. Although it looked in perfect condition with no visible wear to it at all - it was virtually rock solid. The new mount is much more flexible and while its still a firm piece of rubber (hyrdomount?) it does have some play in it.
Oops
Hopefully it's the fluid and some fresh stuff will sort it, although I'd hold off on the Dr tranny til a second change, one this month followed by one next month to have the maximum effect. Fingers crossed.
Mike
I trailered another 1000Kgs of concrete making materials with the FL1 this morning. I found using Command Shift is softer on the TC clutch. I was able to hold a lower gear while climbing up to my elevated house and ease off the throttle as the TC locked. It will shudder readily in auto mode however.
Investigation will start, when I've finished mixing concrete!
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