What have you done to your Freelander today

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Scott61 said:
It wasn't really a big job at all Ali, I used a breaker bar wedged against the wishbone, removed the electrical conectors from the injectors, and turned the engine for a couple of seconds to loosen the bolt. Then I cleaned all the melted rubber from the side of the engine, which had been deposited as the pulley was coming apart! Put on the new pulley and bolt hand tight and fitted the air-con drive belt, before tightening the bolt up, and fitting the serpentine belt. I knew mine was goosed because it had a hell of a metallic rattle on idle too, and I could see the rubber wasn't holding the inner and outer metal parts separate as it should have. The wife said it sounded like a sherman tank :oops: Runs very quietly on idle now though :D
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Thanks buddy, I'll have another look at it. I don't think mine is as bad yet but probably soon will be. :mad:
 
Tonights fun was removing the vcu and propshafts, the bolts holding the propshafts to the IRD and Rear Diff were easy enough to get out, but the screws holding the carrier bearings to the chassis were a bit of a problem. Got the first one I tried out eventually, the second one I tried sheared the head off, 3+4 looked like they would shear too, so I got around that by sawing through the thin brackets. I'll get the other screws out another day. Both carrier bearings were well gone.. 20170627_202706.jpg 20170627_202348.jpg 20170627_202404.jpg 20170627_202605.jpg
 
Pressie arrived today. Saturday's fun sorted and should be back road legal on Monday :)

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Shows how ridiculous parts prices are here. The cheapest I could get an engine mount and lower tie bar here was about $260 (not genuine LR either). This cost $170, of which about 40% was air freight. Its a shame cos I could have brought them home with me in a couple of months and it would only have cost $100 - but needed sooner for WOF (MOT).
 
Nodge68 said:
$170 for a tie bar:eek:. What's that in £ then?
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Lower Tie Rod KKH10226 £32.49
Engine Mounting KKB102480R £23.32
Subtotal £55.81
Shipping & Handling £41.00
Grand Total (Excl.Tax) £96.81

I checked LRDirect, Rimmers & Advanced Factors. All coming in with similar prices. LRDirect also wanted the same for shipping, didn't check the others.

A Kiwi LR group I'm a member of arranged a 10% discount with Bearmach (I think they will give anyone 10% anyway!) so in the end I got fed up checking prices and just ordered them.

Bit worried not going genuine on these bits, but we'll see how they go.
 
I recently received things from LRD - rad', cost $152.81 + $95.06 freight = $247.87NZ about half the cost of one in NZ. Bits to replace HG $132.78 + $53.34 freight = $186.12. I think these are pretty reasonable prices taking into account freight. I commonly get an oil filter or two tossed in - doesn't increase the freight cost but way cheaper than here. Oil filter retails for about $20 to $25! UK Mahle = $6.51. I've found LRD have better prices for freight, much lighter than Rimmers.
As an aside - rad' ordered on the Thursday am in UK, delivered on the Tuesday pm here! Pretty good!

That bottom tie bar looks like the K series one.
 
htr said:
I recently received things from LRD - rad', cost $152.81 + $95.06 freight = $247.87NZ about half the cost of one in NZ. Bits to replace HG $132.78 + $53.34 freight = $186.12. I think these are pretty reasonable prices taking into account freight. I commonly get an oil filter or two tossed in - doesn't increase the freight cost but way cheaper than here. Oil filter retails for about $20 to $25! UK Mahle = $6.51. I've found LRD have better prices for freight, much lighter than Rimmers.
As an aside - rad' ordered on the Thursday am in UK, delivered on the Tuesday pm here! Pretty good!

That bottom tie bar looks like the K series one.
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With the shipping costs to NZ being so high. It makes sense to bulk order common replacement items like filters and things. Maybe all you NZ owner's combine orders and then meet up to divide up the order when it arrives.
 
Nodge68 said:
With the shipping costs to NZ being so high. It makes sense to bulk order common replacement items like filters and things. Maybe all you NZ owner's combine orders and then meet up to divide up the order when it arrives.
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That does make sense, and HTR often asks if there's anything I need when he places an order. However, you are forgetting the DNA of LR vehicles in that mine fails its WOF on a infrequently replaced part that needs to be brought in from overseas about a week after HTR orders his rad! Or when HTR's order goes in I'm boracic lint.
 
htr said:
That bottom tie bar looks like the K series one.
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According to the allbrit.de site, the K and L Series both use the same part.

LRDirect describe it as "Engine mount tie rod with part number fits early Freelander 1 models with 1.8 petrol and 2.0 TCIE diesel engines.". I'm hoping its the right bit!
 
scotty57 said:
My 55 plate Petrol passed MOT today, no advisories for the 3rd year running. Very happy bunny and love my Freelander.
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Hope you don't mind me asking but have you had to spend much on it since its last mot?
I've just bought a 53 plate td4 and was wondering what people are finding with these age of f1s?
 
Do a FULL oil and filter change. Make sure all tyres have the same tread depth. Then drive it and see what niggles you experience.

That's where we started.

After which we could then dig deeper.
 
Freelandananda said:
Hope you don't mind me asking but have you had to spend much on it since its last mot?
I've just bought a 53 plate td4 and was wondering what people are finding with these age of f1s?
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I spent about £200 on maintenance parts for my last MOT.
FL1s on the whole aren't any more expensive than an average car. It's important to keep tyres up to spec, or expensive damage is caused.
 
Freelandananda said:
Well I have 4 new tyres on now. £200 sounds good to me... Thanks

John
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I'm looking at potentially replacing my FL1 with a FFRR soon. Although I'm not sure I fancy the £500+ road fund licence and I know I'll not get a years maintenance for £200 either.
 
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