What have you done to your Freelander today

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Yesterday I shifted the parts car from the garage to the part of the garden behind that garage affectionately known as "the meadow" - because I can't be bothered to mow it!. I had to weed eat and mow some of it first though and clear a wool sack load of Ivy. Still I've now got a nice Freelander shaped garden ornament :)

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Had the flexible brake lines replaced today and brake fluid changed. Was hoping for an improvement but no.
Did you change the hoses to braided steel or just standard rubber? If just to rubber, you will probably only notice a difference under heavy braking.
Fluid changes in themselves don't often show much improvement, unless the old fluid has really begun to degrade.
 
Had the flexible brake lines replaced today and brake fluid changed. Was hoping for an improvement but no.
I wonder what it is with your brakes that makes them like they are? You've upgraded and replaced almost everything now, the amount of effort and $ you've put in you deserve stonking good brakes! Probably when you find the piece that's limiting them you will :)

Maybe its the master cylinder?
 
Had the flexible brake lines replaced today and brake fluid changed. Was hoping for an improvement but no.
Is your car an L series? If so I remember how rubbish the brakes were in mine a few years ago. I had to really push hard on them to stop in a hurry, when compared to any other car I was driving at the time I couldn't believe how bad they were. Thankfully the newer brakes from 01 on were sorted properly and the brakes on my two 02 cars are great.
 
Did you change the hoses to braided steel or just standard rubber? If just to rubber, you will probably only notice a difference under heavy braking.
Fluid changes in themselves don't often show much improvement, unless the old fluid has really begun to degrade.
Sadly I'd already bought the st'd hoses. It is under heavy braking that I've noticed that the brakes aren't great. HDC ... works well and I'm happy with the brakes otherwise, but at open road speed and wanting to slow / stop quickly there are worrisome system!:eek:

Braided hoses might be on the horizon next year. It gets its WoF [MoT to you fellows in the UK] and the mechanics haven't commented about poor booster performance.

I'd love to upgrade to the later discs but would need to change the rims as mine are the 5 spoke. And I've 2 sets now so unless I find later model 6 spoke 15" ones at a stunning margin price [free :)] it's not going to happen.

Are the discs on a V6 the larger / better brakes? There's one being wrecked here where I live. I've been eyeing it up for some other parts! It has the 16" alloys on it.
 
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Sadly I'd already bought the st'd hoses. It is under heavy braking that I've noticed that the brakes aren't great. HDC ... works well and I'm happy with the brakes otherwise, but at open road speed and wanting to slow / stop quickly there are worrisome system!:eek:

Braided hoses might be on the horizon next year. It gets its WoF [MoT to you fellows in the UK] and the mechanics haven't commented about poor booster performance.

I'd love to upgrade to the later discs but would need to change the rims as mine are the 5 spoke. And I've 2 sets now so unless I find later model 6 spoke 15" ones at a stunning margin price [free :)] it's not going to happen.

Are the discs on a V6 the larger / better brakes? There's one being wrecked here where I live. I've been eyeing it up for some other parts! It has the 16" alloys on it.

The V6 is a 2000 onwards spec so has the later brakes;)
The master cylinder, servo (booster) front and rear brakes are all improved over the L series and early K1.8. You'll need the rims from it too. ;)
Definitely a worthwhile upgrade in brake performance.
 
Mot'd it

Failed on a brake pipe corroded and emissions, £100 to sort it (I'd have done it myself but no time)

I have the modified rear lights and they passed no issue
 
Here's one for the V6 experts. :)
I've been trying to sort out the misfire on Cylinder 6 on my Hippo. The code describes a problem with the primary or secondary circuit on Cylinder "F"
I have replaced the spark plug and the coil but the problem is still there. I have picked up a spare engine harness and stripped the coil wiring for coil F/6 out of it.
The two wires that come from the ECU are no problem as they will just plug into the connector blocks at the ECU. My question is about the ground; I would rather
not cut open the existing harness to get at the ground connection, particularly as this would mean removing the intake plenum. (Not difficult but more work!)
Can I just run the coil ground to a ground point on the body or does it have to connect to the other coil grounds?

And, while I have things apart, here is another question....On top of the auto gearbox I spotted the vent tube below that looks like it should have a hose attached to it
going somewhere. :confused: Any idea where it should go?

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Here's one for the V6 experts. :)
I've been trying to sort out the misfire on Cylinder 6 on my Hippo. The code describes a problem with the primary or secondary circuit on Cylinder "F"
I have replaced the spark plug and the coil but the problem is still there. I have picked up a spare engine harness and stripped the coil wiring for coil F/6 out of it.
The two wires that come from the ECU are no problem as they will just plug into the connector blocks at the ECU. My question is about the ground; I would rather
not cut open the existing harness to get at the ground connection, particularly as this would mean removing the intake plenum. (Not difficult but more work!)
Can I just run the coil ground to a ground point on the body or does it have to connect to the other coil grounds?

And, while I have things apart, here is another question....On top of the auto gearbox I spotted the vent tube below that looks like it should have a hose attached to it
going somewhere. :confused: Any idea where it should go?

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What is the actual OBD2 fault code? I seem to recall that there is a generic code for cylinder 6 misfire that Land rover used for something different. Does your code reader fully support the year/model you have?

The coil ground should go to the head or block direct, not via a body ground. If you connect to an indirect ground (such as the body), you may get interference in other electronics and the ECU may mis-diagnose the result of detonation.
 
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