What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

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Hicap phill said:
@frog hopper The screens for the cameras can be a bit big for a landrover dash. You can get some where the internal mirror shows the camera view when activated.

Got the set up like @mick the builder for use in the lorry. Press button to swap views between cameras.
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You can buy all the items separately but for £56 , i thought id give it a whirl.
 
And in other news, I had a go at cleaning the engine on my 200Tdi 90. Bit lax really, haven't done it since I bought it 10 years ago.
Used a product called Safety Clean which my mate gave me ages ago. Worked quite well out of a little plant spray type thing and a bottle brush.
 
Took it for a run on petrol (rather than LPG) to give it a good run and clear out.

What’s the wobbly stick in the middle:eek: oh yeah it’s a manual :oops:

Anyway a good run picked up a 55gallon drum so I can now burn all this **** packaging.

Got to get it filled with water and get get the plasma cutter out:)

Didn’t break anything either:)

J
 
Found a flat tyre today, not a happy bunny, Cooper Discoverer STT Pro with about 5k miles on it.:mad::(:mad::(:mad:
Fecking woodscrew between the tread blocks.:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Jacked her up, removed screw, gave it the beans with a rasp and then pushed in a repair strip with plenty of adhesive as a lube.
Not happy with the penetration so struggled for ages to pull out the repair and then did it again. Much better penetration this time, this wont fall out. Will inflate to 50psi in the morning and leave it for a day just to check, but quietly confident.
 
Val. h said:
replace
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lynall said:
that seal dodge does work, I found it bit of an arse getting the cut seal around the swivel ball, but not much harder is wheel off, disconnect the
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lynall said:
ball, but not much harder is wheel off, disconnect the brake hose unbolt the swivel from the axle and remove the whole
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frog hopper said:
Found a flat tyre today, not a happy bunny, Cooper Discoverer STT Pro with about 5k miles on it.:mad::(:mad::(:mad:
Fecking woodscrew between the tread blocks.:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
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Hope you're not a chippy!
That would be really annoying
 
Started from the outside and working in to the buggered swivel seal. I suspected more may need changing as when I drive down the road oil flings from the stub axel end. Looks like I was right!
20190629_121000.jpg
 
ChrisBduck said:
Either that or the guy before packed his bearing's with runny poo:eek:
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Ive had my 90 for about 9yrs nw and it eats bearings, dont matter if they are crappart blue ones or timken they just dont last, on the upside they are cheap and easy to do.
 
lynall said:
Ive had my 90 for about 9yrs nw and it eats bearings, dont matter if they are crappart blue ones or timken they just dont last, on the upside they are cheap and easy to do.
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My 200 tdi used to eat wheel bearings until I changed to the heavy duty driveshaft members, they have a screw on cap with rubber sealing ring inside, instead of the push on rubber cap as standard. Since fitting them 2 years ago not had to even adjust bearings let alone change them and that’s on all 4. Can only assume there sealing better stopping water and crap from turning into cutting paste.
 
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We pulled the tree sliders off my son's D90 TD5, took off the surface rust which had started to get under the powder coating, annoyed the neighbours on a warm Sunday with the noise from my angle grinder, gave them 3 coats of Black Satin-finish Hammerite, and re-fitted. Wow, not used Hammerite in a rattle can before and was really impressed with the run-free finish we achieved; satin was a good choice as well. It was so good that we did the same to the mounting brackets for his light bar.
Then came the interesting part; we fitted the clutch spring that he bought at Billing from LOF Clutches. Not as straightforward as the salesman implied the spring only fits when fully compressed - and it is a very strong spring.
There is a youtube video which suggests you need 3 huge mole grips and a big, f**k off chisel...nope.
There is a thread on here which recommends compressing the spring in a vice and holding it closed with cable ties or electrical wire. A sound plan, but not one that worked immediately as standard cable ties are just not up to the task. Fortunately I had some really big ones about 2cm wide and those held. Five minutes later my son had rust free sliders and a clutch pedal usable in London - though the LR itself is not, due to the Ultra Low Emissions Zone and it being a conversion from a van.
 
So as my front brake stripdown and disc replacement continues, I decided I'd try and clean up the disc mud shields from the years of crud and rust from its previous use. Gave a couple of primer coats and a couple of black to finish it off. I know it's not perfect and it'll carry on rusting in the future, but it looks a lot better anyway.

IMG_06201.jpg
 
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Think it allows better air flow.(but saying that I would have thought the restriction gives it a bit more time to cool the air)
Get the bigger cooler

I would have gone charge cooled :eek:
 
neilly said:
I fitted this,

Will be interesting to see the difference. Am also looking at the 115mm intercooler.


Cheers
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This is interesting.
I would think the intercooler is the main restriction, does the cross sectional area of the 2 pipe design increase over the standard? I guess it does. And delivery into manifold may be better.
Compare now then bigger intercooler, could help others for sure.

But certainly interested in results. (Even though I don’t have a TD) well not one I am allowed to mess with:eek:

J
 
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