What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Drove it to work, or at least got half way. The oil warning light came on followed by a loss of power. I stopped as quickly as I could and opened the bonnet to find the engine and engine bay covered in oil and a large puddle of oil underneath. Four hours waiting for recovery and it was taken to my Indy for diagnosis. Just got to hope the engine isn’t damaged, although I stopped as soon as the issue occurred.
 
Just a daily update where i'm at.. yes i used britpart bearings, tell me "i told you so" when they fail.. putting the new bearing races in is so easy with a piece of kitchen roll and a bearing puller/push kit.. with a small adjustment tool (hammer)
 

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.41 (1).jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.41 (1).jpeg
    291.1 KB · Views: 113
  • WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.40.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.40.jpeg
    235.2 KB · Views: 107
  • WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.41.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2023-10-03 at 22.04.41.jpeg
    288.2 KB · Views: 87
RustyDefender said:
Just a daily update where i'm at.. yes i used britpart bearings, tell me "i told you so" when they fail.. putting the new bearing races in is so easy with a piece of kitchen roll and a bearing puller/push kit.. with a small adjustment tool (hammer)
Click to expand...
I must admit I used Timken bearings and Corteco seals after seeing comments about Britpart in various threads. I really couldn't say what the difference will be and for the mileage I do it probably wouldn't have made much difference to me. I did pack them well with grease mind. I find the Britannica Restorations and trailer fitters toolbox videos really useful. Are you of a mechanicing background or starting from scratch like me?
 
Dr Strangeglove said:
I must admit I used Timken bearings and Corteco seals after seeing comments about Britpart in various threads. I really couldn't say what the difference will be and for the mileage I do it probably wouldn't have made much difference to me. I did pack them well with grease mind. I find the Britannica Restorations and trailer fitters toolbox videos really useful. Are you of a mechanicing background or starting from scratch like me?
Click to expand...
We will see who's fails first, I don't mind the wheel bearings tbh, that was the easy part so if they do fail i won't cheap out on britpart ones again! I did the same thing.. caked them in grease! Yeah I'm just watching these youtube videos.. finding that majority of these videos are for the newer 300tdi+ swivels etc
 
RustyDefender said:
Yeah same shims as the previous ones
Click to expand...
Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.
 
Dr Strangeglove said:
Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.
Click to expand...

Swivel bearing preload

Hi there. Been changing the swivel bearings on my 1987 90 over the weekend but wondering what preload to use. I have the early axle (used to have drum rear axle) so don't have the roller bearings at the top (is it Railko bush?), just a large metal dish the pin then sits into. Anyway I looked in m...
forums.lr4x4.com forums.lr4x4.com
 
Dr Strangeglove said:
Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.
Click to expand...
I just threw all the shims in and still tough to move it.. i thought the rule was you can just move it and feel the friction against it right?
 
(ignore the locking washer, had to reuse existing one)

Really wished I purchased new hubs.. had to file off a chunk of rust to make them not take out the caliper
 

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2023-10-07 at 16.29.14.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2023-10-07 at 16.29.14.jpeg
    541.1 KB · Views: 92
  • WhatsApp Image 2023-10-07 at 16.29.15.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2023-10-07 at 16.29.15.jpeg
    582.7 KB · Views: 99
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DefendingLancashire
300TDI Four-parter: brake wear, lift pump / fuel filter, turbo, and bushes / squeaking
Replies
13
Views
653
miktdish
miktdish
F
What have you done with your series today?
Replies
4
Views
1K
Frustrated Seriesist
F
Blob
L322 Let's have your technical opinions then. Coolant leak and cracked manifold?
2
Replies
24
Views
4K
Blob
Blob
Hippo
What have you done to your tratter today?
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
7K
IamRobbie
IamRobbie
Hippo
What have you done to your tratter today?
2
Replies
35
Views
4K
dominicbeesley
dominicbeesley
Back
Top