What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Fitted the new alternator and the freshly charged battery, fired up first turn after resynching the key. No EAS orange blinkers, 15.5v at idle unloaded, everything on 14.2v at idle. I'll take that. Bounced straight to standard height when I shut the door. Compressor now noisy in the box again, think the sluggish performance and quietness before was a side effect of depressed voltage. Quietening still to look at there then. Loaded him up with half a tank of fuel and about 1/4 ton of books to take to the new house, totally uneventful and smooth journey, although the speed monitor just up the road said 31mph and I was showing 27 so maybe his old under-reading issue has popped up again. Will have to have the GPS speedo on to double check tomorrow. Felt great to be wafting along in stately height again.
Also weirdly the odd spoing / graunch noise we were having on setting off the other weekend has disappeared - can't see how the alternator change does that, maybe he just needed some driving to free everything up.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
I'll be checking it again tomorrow - might just mean keeping some load on but better than too low like the old alternator.
Click to expand...
It should not need any load to keep the voltage where it should be, that's what the regulator is for. The max should be 14.8 with or without additional load. High voltage is often a sign of a bad earth from engine to chassis.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Fitted the new alternator and the freshly charged battery, fired up first turn after resynching the key. No EAS orange blinkers, 15.5v at idle unloaded, everything on 14.2v at idle. I'll take that. Bounced straight to standard height when I shut the door. Compressor now noisy in the box again, think the sluggish performance and quietness before was a side effect of depressed voltage. Quietening still to look at there then. Loaded him up with half a tank of fuel and about 1/4 ton of books to take to the new house, totally uneventful and smooth journey, although the speed monitor just up the road said 31mph and I was showing 27 so maybe his old under-reading issue has popped up again. Will have to have the GPS speedo on to double check tomorrow. Felt great to be wafting along in stately height again.
Also weirdly the odd spoing / graunch noise we were having on setting off the other weekend has disappeared - can't see how the alternator change does that, maybe he just needed some driving to free everything up.
Click to expand...

Don't overdo the tightening on the compressor. Box might be touching the wing so it acts as a soundboard?
 
Decided to clean the back seats with Auto Glym leather cleaner and then massaged in the Auto Glum leather balm.
Calm down Alan only did the back seats nothing else:rolleyes::rolleyes::D
 

Attachments

  • 20220416_121902.jpg
    20220416_121902.jpg
    186.7 KB · Views: 98
  • 20220416_121920.jpg
    20220416_121920.jpg
    339 KB · Views: 77
Welded rear archs were pretty good for age and fixed ABS fault with new sensor and fitted near side sill gaurd that was missing, I have a spare for the right hand side if anyone wants it, £20 collected or deliver if nearby, I am in Portsmouth.
Happy again !
 
Hypothetically speaking, let's say someone still doesn't have a working door loom because the one sent was the wrong kind, and that same someones P38 has now won't unlock on the fob (key works in drivers door obs). If I put the key in the ignition and turned it, would it resync the fob, or trigger the alarm?
I don't super lock if that makes a difference.
 
Bix said:
Hypothetically speaking, let's say someone still doesn't have a working door loom because the one sent was the wrong kind, and that same someones P38 has now won't unlock on the fob (key works in drivers door obs). If I put the key in the ignition and turned it, would it resync the fob, or trigger the alarm?
I don't super lock if that makes a difference.
Click to expand...
Depends on the year of the car, post about 1999 there is a sync coil in the ignition lock assembly, when inserting the key, the FOB LED should flash (no need to turn) and the FOB will re-sync. This assumes that the aerial is connected for the FOB receiver. Earlier cars re-sync by putting the key into the door lock, turn to lock & hold there while pressing the lock button on the FOB, then turn to unlock & hold there while pressing the unlock button. Mozz Smith did a detailed re-sync instruction list.
 
Datatek said:
Depends on the year of the car, post about 1999 there is a sync coil in the ignition lock assembly, when inserting the key, the FOB LED should flash (no need to turn) and the FOB will re-sync. This assumes that the aerial is connected for the FOB receiver. Earlier cars re-sync by putting the key into the door lock, turn to lock & hold there while pressing the lock button on the FOB, then turn to unlock & hold there while pressing the unlock button. Mozz Smith did a detailed re-sync instruction list.
Click to expand...
Ah, that's me **** outta luck then. Mine is a 99, so probably not got the ignition coil. No one breaking P38s seems to have the drivers door loom with 2 pins in the a post. Absolute pain in the butt.
 
Bix said:
Ah, that's me **** outta luck then. Mine is a 99, so probably not got the ignition coil. No one breaking P38s seems to have the drivers door loom with 2 pins in the a post. Absolute pain in the butt.
Click to expand...
99 should have the coil, my 99 has. I have a door loom from an early car but I don't think it's the same. What do you mean by "2 pins in the A post"?
 
Datatek said:
99 should have the coil, my 99 has. I have a door loom from an early car but I don't think it's the same. What do you mean by "2 pins in the A post"?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I meant plugs. The loom I was sent was a manufacturered late 99 and it had 3 plugs, I can only assume it is related to dipping mirrors as the mirror plug was different too? Mine only has 2 plugs in the A post/pillar.

Could just be my fob batteries are dying and too week to sync maybe. That or the vehicle battery absolutely pancaked since Thursday. But since I topped it up with water the battery has been super strong, so unlikely.
 
Bix said:
Sorry, I meant plugs. The loom I was sent was a manufacturered late 99 and it had 3 plugs, I can only assume it is related to dipping mirrors as the mirror plug was different too? Mine only has 2 plugs in the A post/pillar.

Could just be my fob batteries are dying and too week to sync maybe. That or the vehicle battery absolutely pancaked since Thursday. But since I topped it up with water the battery has been super strong, so unlikely.
Click to expand...
Does the LED in the FOB flash when you press the buttons? If it does the battery should be OK. I'll try and have a look at the loom in my scrapper tomorrow.
 
Datatek said:
Does the LED in the FOB flash when you press the buttons? If it does the battery should be OK. I'll try and have a look at the loom in my scrapper tomorrow.
Click to expand...
It does, but the dash was flashing key fob battery low for the last few days.
The vehicle does drop sync for fun from time to time, so possibly done that. Usually not an issue.
 
Took the clocks out today to investigate the 'dim on one end only' display on the message center.
Thought this would be an easy job but I struggled. Supposedly 2 screws under the binnacle and it's out, not mine, stuck fast lower down. Turns out there is 2 more screws that are a bitch to remove in a gap twix lower binnacle and column shroud. After lots of messing, got them out, then spent far too long trying to get the fuel flap electrical plug off, just couldn't get my fingers in there.4 screws hold the clocks in, 2 easy to get at top 2 not so easy needed a long blade screwdriver ideally but I managed. Then I couldn't get the clocks out and didn't want to force anything so I decided to remove the column shroud to give more room, 4 screws that I could see but it wouldn't come off, removed the lower dash panel the one with the crotch cooler vent, and I could see 2 further screws holding the shroud but couldn't access them without removing some other parts so I gave up and tried to get the clocks out again. Managed it this time but could I get them back in? Could I hell! Tried every way and no, she wouldn't have it. Took the cover off the speaker and it went back in but still wasn't easy. Fookin basser.
It got worse...
Message center now doesn't work!
Redid the two plugs after a squirt of contact cleaner...nothing checked all fuses...nothing.
Come in to sulk and have a Google and found a few posts with one who found ALL his message center bulbs had gone. 2 of mine of the 3 were working pre dash clock removal but in desperation I pinched 3 from the indicator tell tail and message center is all good again..yay!
Need bulbs.
Anyone know the type so I can Google, hopefully pick some up from Halfords to get me going with a view to changing the lot at a later date.
Seem to recall they were wattage sensitive? But that might have been the hvac or something?
16501294427051072388530257766618.jpg
 
Flossie said:
Took the clocks out today to investigate the 'dim on one end only' display on the message center.
Thought this would be an easy job but I struggled. Supposedly 2 screws under the binnacle and it's out, not mine, stuck fast lower down. Turns out there is 2 more screws that are a bitch to remove in a gap twix lower binnacle and column shroud. After lots of messing, got them out, then spent far too long trying to get the fuel flap electrical plug off, just couldn't get my fingers in there.4 screws hold the clocks in, 2 easy to get at top 2 not so easy needed a long blade screwdriver ideally but I managed. Then I couldn't get the clocks out and didn't want to force anything so I decided to remove the column shroud to give more room, 4 screws that I could see but it wouldn't come off, removed the lower dash panel the one with the crotch cooler vent, and I could see 2 further screws holding the shroud but couldn't access them without removing some other parts so I gave up and tried to get the clocks out again. Managed it this time but could I get them back in? Could I hell! Tried every way and no, she wouldn't have it. Took the cover off the speaker and it went back in but still wasn't easy. Fookin basser.
It got worse...
Message center now doesn't work!
Redid the two plugs after a squirt of contact cleaner...nothing checked all fuses...nothing.
Come in to sulk and have a Google and found a few posts with one who found ALL his message center bulbs had gone. 2 of mine of the 3 were working pre dash clock removal but in desperation I pinched 3 from the indicator tell tail and message center is all good again..yay!
Need bulbs.
Anyone know the type so I can Google, hopefully pick some up from Halfords to get me going with a view to changing the lot at a later date.
Seem to recall they were wattage sensitive? But that might have been the hvac or something?View attachment 263213
Click to expand...
Hint & tip.. whichever ones you do get DONT get led bulbs.. they shine too bright and show all the LCD grid lines.. Looks awful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
535
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
799
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top