What did you do with your Range Rover today

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hef19898 said:
Replaced the rear diff today. And took her for a test drive. Oh boy, together with the ton of sound deadening I thought the gearbox was missing! No more shudder when decelerating, no more clonking noise when changing gears. And with the new relay, no more fuel issues leading to engine shutdowns.

Only the carbs to be looked after and it seems I'm done... No idea what I'll do after that... :)
Click to expand...
Buy another! :D
 
Well, considering prices in Germany for these cars, I wouldn't have budget issues for a new one if I sold the one I have. Not sure if I will ever do that, too much work went into it. But maybe someone makes me an offer I cannot refuse, it had to be very excessive for me to consider it so!
 
Well, damn. Just took her for a longer test drive, and she refuses to rev over 3000 rpm, even when I topped up the damper oil in the carbs. Any idea what could cause this? Two weeks ago or so this wasn't a problem at all. But the left carb the one loosing damper oil, now lost it almost completely since yesterday... Any ideas?
 
Took the damper covers off of both the carbs. Diaphragms are looking like new on both ends, even I have the impression that the needle isn't center on either one...

Also discovered that the vacuum tube is shot completely. I'll go buy a new tube at the local hardware store this afternoon, just to test things out. It drives me crazy so, that my workshop manual doesn't seem to fit my car. And that there are some tubes from the carbs going into nowhere (no idea what they are doing...) and one that is blanketed out with a screw...

Pictures from the left carb, the carbs one with the shot vacuum tube that is also loosing oil...
 

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if you've got vacuum leaks, thats definitely an issue, especially if its the link to the distributor vacuum advance. make sure there arent any air/vacuum leaks anywhere.
the needle is on a spring so should have some movement, it should affect operation so long as the piston moves freely, it will cause wear though.
 
And the pictures from the right one.

I discovered something strange so, but have no idea what that could be. The are two holes at the bottom end of the piston. They pointed upwards on the right carb and down on the left. Could it be that the left one was loosing oil through these holes? The were no o-rings anywhere on the piston that would seal it against the cover.
 

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the holes i think are to allow air pressure to equalise.
there shouldnt be any o-ring on the piston, the 'tube' on the piston moves through the 'tube' in the top cover and should be a close (but not tight) fit. when its together, oil has a hard time passing through the gap, but will do eventually
 
Put everything back together. Now the engine is reving yo up around 3.5k rpm without issues and no air filter attached. Mixture and piston position is not equal between the two carbs. Mixture on both sides is meager I think, when I push the piston up revs are dropping almost stalling the engine. I used the old vacuum tube, so. Seems like I need the calibration tool and new tubes. Well, could be worse I guess...
 
The only carb-related vacuum tube I found goes from the left carb to the distributor. the capped one comes from the manifold, and there is another tube from the bottom end of the air filter end of the left carb to the distributor. The latter one looks fine, so.

Two questions, so: Are these the only vacuum lines? And how do I check for leaks?
 
2 vacuum pipes from the left carb, one from either side of the butterfly? Not sure i understand that.

Just make sure the pipes are in good order and not leaking from any joints, any blanks are effective. If you pull a pipe off then reconnect, you should hear the sucking noise disappear, if you can still hear it then it's leaking
 
Does the advance move freely on the distributor?

Take the hose off at source put you thumb over it, guesstimate it then put pipe back on and check other end do the guesstimates match?

Not worked with Strombergs sorry:)
Hose is cheap change it to be sure.

J
 
So, these all all the tubes I talked about:
IMG_20200924_172621.jpg
IMG_20200924_172625.jpg


This tube goes to the distributor. When I take it off, the revs increase and the engine revs up to just shy of 4k rpm before dropping back to around 3k on full throttle. It's the one right above the "V".

IMG_20200924_172636.jpg
This one is the one that doesn't hold vacuum, also the one that slipped of the distributor. With both tubes attached engine revs up to 4k and stays there on full throttle. That's without the air filter attached. It is less fast to rev and less likely to hold revs so than I'm used to.
IMG_20200924_172645.jpg
IMG_20200924_172702.jpg
And the one right under the air filter between the two carbs, coming from the manifold, is the one that is capped. There seems to be oil in that tube as well

Noe I am at a loss. I have zero experience with the engine, but a lot of stuff seems to not be standard. Any ideas?

In the meanwhile I'll replace the tubes with new ones, just to be sure. All three of them. Air filter is clean, so.

One thing I found as well is , that the carbs are all black where the get air from the air filter. As the air filter is taking in exhaust gas, could it be that the engine is leaking oil into the exhaust? Oil from the carb, as the engine is loosing at all?
 
that makes more sense, one pipe to the distributor, one pipe between the 2 carburettors
there shouldnt be any exhaust gases getting to the carbs, only a pipe from the rocker cover to capture and burn evaporated oil fumes.
have you adjusted the carbs so the revs dont drop when you lift the pistons?
have you checked the ignition timing is correct?
 
Damn car doesn't like me today... When I pull the choke out roughly 5 mm or so she revs lovely, hold revs above 4k and runs so much smoother. I'd guess carb calibration, hopefully...
 
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