What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Insurance renewal time, has come through as £301 fully comp with all the little extras on courtesy car and other stuff. Not too bad I don't think
 
p38 passed it's MoT yesterday - yay!!! Has been off the road far too long.

Sadly seems to have a clonk from the rear. I "think" it was there previously, but is much more prevalent now. Not exactly sure what is causing it. Need to crawl under and have a look. Trying researching online, but my word nowhere seems to agree the suspension layout on a p38. Some places have diagrams showing a rear A-frame :rolleyes: And some show a panhard rod front and rear, others only at the front.

I think it uses a panhard at the rear from when I was under it last. So plan on changing the bushes, anyone know for sure.

e.g.

diag-3085.jpg


Range-Rover-P38-95-02-Powerflex-Complete-Bush-Kit-01-xbie.jpg

Diagram_-_Range_Rover_P38A_1994_to_2002.jpg


They can't all be right... :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Panhard rod front and rear plus leading links front and trailing links rear. If it's a drive line clonk, check the UJ's. Otherwise it could be a shock absorber as it got worse after the MOT.
 
300bhp/ton said:
p38 passed it's MoT yesterday - yay!!! Has been off the road far too long.

Sadly seems to have a clonk from the rear. I "think" it was there previously, but is much more prevalent now. Not exactly sure what is causing it. Need to crawl under and have a look. Trying researching online, but my word nowhere seems to agree the suspension layout on a p38. Some places have diagrams showing a rear A-frame :rolleyes: And some show a panhard rod front and rear, others only at the front.

I think it uses a panhard at the rear from when I was under it last. So plan on changing the bushes, anyone know for sure.

e.g.

They can't all be right... :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Click to expand...

If the clonk is going from forward to reverse (or reverse to forward) as the slack in drivetrain is taken up and more of a click than a clonk it might be the rear shafts need gluing where they go through the hub. You need that green Loctite.

Otherwise I am with data on the UJs.
 
It is most noticeable going over speed humps. Even very slowly. Most when going up rather than down. And it’s when the rear wheels hit the ramp/hump.

Shocks looked ok when I fitted the springs. But they are on my hit list. Was going to do rear panhard. Then rear trailing arm chassis bush. And then look at shocks if it’s not solved it. Don’t think it is the prop/UJ’s but will have a look at them too.
 
300bhp/ton said:
It is most noticeable going over speed humps. Even very slowly. Most when going up rather than down. And it’s when the rear wheels hit the ramp/hump.

Shocks looked ok when I fitted the springs. But they are on my hit list. Was going to do rear panhard. Then rear trailing arm chassis bush. And then look at shocks if it’s not solved it. Don’t think it is the prop/UJ’s but will have a look at them too.
Click to expand...

That does sound like a bush. Have you got yours on springs?
 
So as my 4.6 is back on the road and I had found a new app in the App Store I thought I'd give it a try out.

No idea if this is good or bad though, nothing to compare it too :rolleyes:

IMG_1358.PNG
 
300bhp/ton said:
It is most noticeable going over speed humps. Even very slowly. Most when going up rather than down. And it’s when the rear wheels hit the ramp/hump.

Shocks looked ok when I fitted the springs. But they are on my hit list. Was going to do rear panhard. Then rear trailing arm chassis bush. And then look at shocks if it’s not solved it. Don’t think it is the prop/UJ’s but will have a look at them too.
Click to expand...
I'd be looking at the drop links. Cheap to replace to
 
Pulled the EAS delay relay to try and see which corner is dropping. It's on bump stops each morning and nothing coming out of the exhaust port as per Wammers' thumb test. I'm assuming one corner is leaking and it uses all the air trying to adjust over night.
 
Tenebreaux said:
Pulled the EAS delay relay to try and see which corner is dropping. It's on bump stops each morning and nothing coming out of the exhaust port as per Wammers' thumb test. I'm assuming one corner is leaking and it uses all the air trying to adjust over night.
Click to expand...
It doesn't use air to drop, the tank should remain full. It does of course attempt the remain level if one corner drops by exhausting air.
 
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