What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Bagshot said:
Correction here..you don't have to take the cam sprocket off, just loosen the bolt which will allow,(eventually) the cam to turn separately. In theory you should replace the cam bolt once it's undone.!
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Check out the Mike Braund videos on YouTube, they explained it all to me..!
 
wammers said:
Gentle blows.
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You know me too well :D:D:D

Why can't RAVE just say that :)

I intend to be more accurate than Mike ; I saw his readings lol :rolleyes:
He does videos now on paintings, like Bob Ross! Explained the main part but there are intricacies.

I understand exactly now. I got mixed up with what cam (as you knew). Forgot bout the feeler gauge (think it's pass side on video)

It will have to wait until I can get time to get cam cover gasket (+pegs), then in true Bagshot fashion - I may aswell do oil/filter, then maybe clean sump/gasket while I am there, then if manifold comes off I may aswell sort plugs and oh no what have I done! ;)
I should get an NVQ for this :rolleyes:


No wait, I am NVQ :p:D:eek::D

Thankyou guys , again!
My P38 (and therefore my happiness) owe you a debt of gratitude :)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You know me too well :D:D:D

Why can't RAVE just say that :)

I intend to be more accurate than Mike ; I saw his readings lol :rolleyes:
He does videos now on paintings, like Bob Ross! Explained the main part but there are intricacies.

I understand exactly now. I got mixed up with what cam (as you knew). Forgot bout the feeler gauge (think it's pass side on video)

It will have to wait until I can get time to get cam cover gasket (+pegs), then in true Bagshot fashion - I may aswell do oil/filter, then maybe clean sump/gasket while I am there, then if manifold comes off I may aswell sort plugs and oh no what have I done! ;)
I should get an NVQ for this :rolleyes:


No wait, I am NVQ :p:D:eek::D

Thankyou guys , again!
My P38 (and therefore my happiness) owe you a debt of gratitude :)
Click to expand...
Just to cheer you up talking about debt, I have just worked out that my rebuild in parts alone, lincluding all chains, sprockets, gaskets but less the head..
£680.00. be sure before you jump in, I spent a good month chasing part prices so think that's not far off..:):):)
 
wammers said:
Offset on cam holder is camshaft timing nowt to do with pump static. See RAVE for details. 2 mm is correct, push DTI in until it registers 2 mm from zero then lock it up. Turn engine til DTI stops dropping, then zero it. Then turn engine til lock pin is in then read lift on pump cam from DTI. Slacken pump nuts slightly so that pump just moves if tapped with a piece of wood on side of it with hammer. Gentle blows. Tap towards engine to increase lift away to reduce it. Last movement of pump MUST be towards engine. Lock pump nuts up and repeat procedure to check setting.
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And be careful tightening up because the metal is soft as butter. As me how I know ...
 
Bagshot said:
Just to cheer you up talking about debt, I have just worked out that my rebuild in parts alone, lincluding all chains, sprockets, gaskets but less the head..
£680.00. be sure before you jump in, I spent a good month chasing part prices so think that's not far off..:):):)
Click to expand...

Yes, that's about what I costed up for the chains, tensioners and sprockets. Refurbed pump is around the same, maybe a bit more.
 
Removed the rear prop and H'brake drum to take some photo's of backplate for @jamesmartin to diagnose part numbers, put it back together again.
Gonna have a rest now.:):)
IMG_2210.JPG
 
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