What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Grrrrrr said:
Just an aside. The recovery driver I was speaking to yesterday said he'd had to pick up 6 Ejokes in the past week. All of them with deployed airbags. Seems the slightest jolt can set them off.
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You all sorted now? I was with the AA about 10 years ago, they did the same to me, went with another company, and they cover YOU not the car, so you could be in any car, and your partner joins for free, its a lot cheaper than the AA and they use local ppl to come out to you
 
Well after replacing the leak off pipes,again. It was a bastard to start this morning, lots of smoke and missing on a few cylinders.:mad: Inlet manifold off and glow plugs out. Three out of the six were duff. Had some in stores,bit like @Grrrrrr's shed all back together now so will see in the morning . I'm feeling confident that was the problem.:D
 
Got under it to have a go at changing the aircon pulley but ended up chasing a fuel leak instead. It had had a bit of a wee and there was diesel dripping from the bottom of the bell housing.
Didn't do it for long so had a good look but can't see anything obvious.
 
@Grrrrrr Get your recovery policy through your bank. They can afford to p*ss the single private policy holder about but will not mess about with their bank contract.
Some smooth talking about 'policy searching' they will probably give you better price for the custom too ;)
The way they treated you is not on
 
Dopey said:
You all sorted now? I was with the AA about 10 years ago, they did the same to me, went with another company, and they cover YOU not the car, so you could be in any car, and your partner joins for free, its a lot cheaper than the AA and they use local ppl to come out to you
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Yes, thanks. Car is at my mother's at the moment as he couldn't get up the drive. I'm too busy so cannot look for a few weeks at least.

Once I get it back here and have a spare weekend I'll pull it apart and see what happened.
 
Either Christmas has come very late, or very early?

And either this is the very best thing for my P38 or the very worst :eek::p:D

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Either way I am well happy :):):)

Thankyou Bagshot
 
tomcat59alan said:
Well after replacing the leak off pipes,again. It was a bastard to start this morning, lots of smoke and missing on a few cylinders.:mad: Inlet manifold off and glow plugs out. Three out of the six were duff. Had some in stores,bit like @Grrrrrr's shed all back together now so will see in the morning . I'm feeling confident that was the problem.:D
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Started first time,barely cranked.;):D
 
Grrrrrr said:
Nice kit. Bargain.
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solid kit and it's all there :) window socket alone is far more HD than any I've seen for a price I wouldn't pay. Main benefit is knowing they are the correct specific ones for the p38 (apart from i couldn't afford to rationalise buying them at individual price) :):):)

Atleast you get the fun of watching a grown man crying when I cock it up :D Remember to point and laugh ;)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
What do you think would be good setting for FIP cam lift @ 140,000miles - there is more stretch in the chains than 20,000 but nothing too serious.

0.93/0.94 mm?
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I just followed what it said in RAVE and it seems to work. That was with the refurbed FIP.

Before that I marked up my own guage on the pump housing with a Sharpie and turned it until the Nanocom read 50% modulation. Didn't hurt but probably not a good idea.
 
No nanocom but intend to mark everything up - if no luck will return to position it's at now.
Wammers told me day one adjust the FIP for the slack to sort it for now and not to worry about modulation it would be fine.
If I measure what it's at now may give me more of an idea. Trial and error may be involved although I'm confident I will get it better.
When I have time intention is to strip as little as possible to check/adjust FIP 'swivel' position so lift reflects timing of current chain and valve positions better due to stretch

Atleast that my theory so far...:D
RAVE has two settings - new chains and adjustment after 20,000 mile run in. Mine may need a tad more
 
RangeRoller dt said:
No nanocom but intend to mark everything up - if no luck will return to position it's at now.
Wammers told me day one adjust the FIP for the slack to sort it for now and not to worry about modulation it would be fine.
If I measure what it's at now may give me more of an idea. Trial and error may be involved although I'm confident I will get it better.
When I have time intention is to strip as little as possible to check/adjust FIP 'swivel' position so lift reflects timing of current chain and valve positions better due to stretch

Atleast that my theory so far...:D
RAVE has two settings - new chains and adjustment after 20,000 mile run in. Mine may need a tad more
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Yes, my fear was that by taking up the slack the extra tension might hasten the stretch and take the links past their elastic limit. So I left it as per RAVE. If it hadn't worked I'd have done what you plan until I could change the chains.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
What is offset on cam holder? Is that where RAVE says set to 2mm @ TDC before zeroing gauge?
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Once you set the cam at TDC, (see cam lobes on RAVE). Put the cam locking tool in place and with the cam sprocket off turn the cam very slightly until you can get feeler gauges under the NS for the gap.(as per Wammers measurements) hold the cam firm and replace the cam sprocket and bolt on. Check that the gap is still there under the tool and you have set the allowance for 20k chains. If you had new chains and sprockets, you wouldn't have any gap and the locking tool would sit flat on the head.
Hope this makes sense and happy to be corrected if someone knows different.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
What is offset on cam holder? Is that where RAVE says set to 2mm @ TDC before zeroing gauge?
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Offset on cam holder is camshaft timing nowt to do with pump static. See RAVE for details. 2 mm is correct, push DTI in until it registers 2 mm from zero then lock it up. Turn engine til DTI stops dropping, then zero it. Then turn engine til lock pin is in then read lift on pump cam from DTI. Slacken pump nuts slightly so that pump just moves if tapped with a piece of wood on side of it with hammer. Gentle blows. Tap towards engine to increase lift away to reduce it. Last movement of pump MUST be towards engine. Lock pump nuts up and repeat procedure to check setting.
 
Bagshot said:
Once you set the cam at TDC, (see cam lobes on RAVE). Put the cam locking tool in place and with the cam sprocket off turn the cam very slightly until you can get feeler gauges under the NS for the gap.(as per Wammers measurements) hold the cam firm and replace the cam sprocket and bolt on. Check that the gap is still there under the tool and you have set the allowance for 20k chains. If you had new chains and sprockets, you wouldn't have any gap and the locking tool would sit flat on the head.
Hope this makes sense and happy to be corrected if someone knows different.
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Correction here..you don't have to take the cam sprocket off, just loosen the bolt which will allow,(eventually) the cam to turn separately. In theory you should replace the cam bolt once it's undone.!
 
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