What did you do with your Range Rover today

marjon · 2025-02-25T12:17:31+0000

kermit_rr said:
The front one seems ok right now but don't expect it to last another year but that's for another day

kermit_rr said:
The arm can move laterally on the bush without moving back.. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that

We had all our arms done in 1 go, Cos the thinking they are all the same age if 1s gone the others will follow.

But you would need to invest in a ball joint breaker, but they are peanuts if you go for the fork and hammer type.

Note in the docs it says to check 4 wheel alignment, not sure why as its only nuts n bolts but maybe its to cover manufacturing tolerances.
So if you do the arms 1 at a time when they fail then its posibly gonna cost you 4x wheel alignments (or you just risk it)

The arms themselves are not all that expensive.

J

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T12:24:47+0000

marjon said:
We had all our arms done in 1 go, Cos the thinking they are all the same age if 1s gone the others will follow.

But you would need to invest in a ball joint breaker, but they are peanuts if you go for the fork and hammer type.

Note in the docs it says to check 4 wheel alignment, not sure why as its only nuts n bolts but maybe its to cover manufacturing tolerances.
So if you do the arms 1 at a time when they fail then its posibly gonna cost you 4x wheel alignments (or you just risk it)

The arms themselves are not all that expensive.

J

yes i do need to invest in one!!

i want to do 1 at a time more from time issues. its my only wheels right now

surely only need to do alignment when you replace the adjustable one?

marjon · 2025-02-25T12:32:40+0000

kermit_rr said:
Thanks!! Crikey that's tight. My torque wrench only goes to 100lbft!

Also have to remember that that is probably a "dry" torque, unless the bolts have something on them, which many do now so the mech is not in touch with those "dangerous" lubes

.
So lubed is less (its a great debate on how much less so not going there).

I am sure you would use lube, so I would say you have what you need.

J

marjon · 2025-02-25T12:40:52+0000

kermit_rr said:
yes i do need to invest in one!!

i want to do 1 at a time more from time issues. its my only wheels right now

surely only need to do alignment when you replace the adjustable one?

I totally understand, but over 2 weekends should be possible.

Yes agree again neither of those arms are adjustable, But they could have a manufacturing +/- which could make a difference.

J

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T12:55:01+0000

marjon said:
I totally understand, but over 2 weekends should be possible.

Yes agree again neither of those arms are adjustable, But they could have a manufacturing +/- which could make a difference.

J

That's assuming you have 2 weekends and that they are both dry and above zero

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T12:57:39+0000

marjon said:
Also have to remember that that is probably a "dry" torque, unless the bolts have something on them, which many do now so the mech is not in touch with those "dangerous" lubes .
So lubed is less (its a great debate on how much less so not going there).

I am sure you would use lube, so I would say you have what you need.

J

I'm assuming it would be 100lbft "plus a bit" then 90 degrees?
What you you mean by lube.. oil or copper grease?

Sorry I'm not very good at going off piste when it comes to this kind of stuff

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T13:57:25+0000

marjon said:
But you would need to invest in a ball joint breaker, but they are peanuts if you go for the fork and hammer type.

any idea on size? there seem to be several.. i'll guarantee to get the wrong one

marjon · 2025-02-25T13:58:04+0000

kermit_rr said:
I'm assuming it would be 100lbft "plus a bit" then 90 degrees?
What you you mean by lube.. oil or copper grease?
Sorry I'm not very good at going off piste when it comes to this kind of stuff

Its a very debatable thing so I would never "say" you will be fine

. I am quite comfortable with my torque elbow most of the time.

Some bolts these days have a "lube" coating (no Idea what it is). But I do hate it when they say "this tight click" then XX degrees more, without stating dry or lubed. (which the doc I posted dosent state) But I would assume its dry as supplied bolts, so the mech doesnt have to touch any lube. Also some of this "throw the nut n bolt away".

A couple of examples.

I replaced our front prop a few years ago, used old bolts and used elbow torque, checked a week later. No issues
found out later after RTFM it should be new bolts to xxtorque

. It hasnt dropped off yet.

When I worked in the oilfield we had some big bolts (2inch) they were green in colour and the instructions were to use no lube and tighten them till the little knob on the end didnt turn

. How do you tighten them. Oh you do it with the sledge hammer and hammer wrench

. You still get gas from the north sea (dont you

).

How close could you get to 100ft/lbs without a torque wrench? Would you change a spare on the road without a torque wrench?

I guess what I am trying to say is, You know when its tight enough.
There are times to follow the torque values, and there are times you can ignore the instructions for an apprentice.

J

marjon · 2025-02-25T13:59:05+0000

kermit_rr said:
any idea on size? there seem to be several.. i'll guarantee to get the wrong one

Biggest hammer you can get in the space

.

J

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T14:09:37+0000

kermit_rr said:
any idea on size? there seem to be several.. i'll guarantee to get the wrong one

still not sure i need a splitter if i'm removing the ball joint and the arm?

marjon said:
How close could you get to 100ft/lbs without a torque wrench? Would you change a spare on the road without a torque wrench?

haha i've always been rubbish at that, my elbow never got calibrated as a kid, when i was in primary school i would often put bottle tops on that my dad couldnt remove.. i'm good at shearing bolts even now, though i'm a bit better.. may dad laughs at me becuase i have to use a torque wrench for just about everything

to answer your question, i wouldnt know if i was at 50lb or 200lb

i've tried to teach myself by torquing a bolt then putting a regular ratchet on to see how much it takes to tighten further.. but i dont seem to learn

kermit_rr · 2025-02-25T14:11:55+0000

it was easy doing steel wheels with a 12" breaker bar.. but i worry more about over tightening alloys, so i torque them.. ever since i had one (wheel) come loose on my p38

marjon · 2025-02-25T14:38:46+0000

kermit_rr said:
still not sure i need a splitter if i'm removing the ball joint and the arm?

You dont for the rear arms, as you are replacing the ball joint. But I dont know how good a fit the ball joint base is in the arm.
But you will when you do the front lowers.

J

marjon · 2025-02-25T15:25:05+0000

marjon said:
So I did desnow it today, but decided to take the defender to the shops.

But now tomorrow . Gonna park the fender out somewhere safe and see if the L322 can do what the tin (never said) but hey if it gets beached the EAS will raise it and out it should drive, yes? Could be fun.

Bets anybody?

J

Well it drove straight out and back to almost the same spot

. After getting some supplies.

J

Mark Piercy · 2025-02-25T15:35:01+0000

marjon said:
Well it drove straight out and back to almost the same spot . After getting some supplies.

J

Arrrr, you got snow

We've just got mud... And slimey it is... Nearly got stuck twice at the weekend on an incline out in the middle of nowhere

Got it through with pedal powwwweeeeerrrr and splattering mud everywhere

marjon · 2025-02-25T15:45:56+0000

Mark Piercy said:
Arrrr, you got snow
We've just got mud... And slimey it is... Nearly got stuck twice at the weekend on an incline out in the middle of nowhere
Got it through with pedal powwwweeeeerrrr and splattering mud everywhere

The P38 often does more than the owner is willing to try, As does the L322. They are pretty capable, when they work

.
Dont worry the ground will turn slimey and the fender will get its camo back

.

J

Datatek · 2025-02-25T15:56:01+0000

kermit_rr said:
my tailgate is starting to bubble with rust can anything be done before it gets worse or is it a case of getting one off a scrapper?

Phosphoric acid will kill the rust if it has not gone too far.

What did you do with your Range Rover today

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