What did you do with your Range Rover today

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13.6 wou
Well interesting progress.
Battery only charges to 13.6v, , with the old battery on it went to about 14.8v.
After a while it jumps around between 12.0-13.6, i presume that's once it thinks it's full.

More interestingly since i had the car, the heater has been rubbish and wouldn't hold the temperature during winter.. since i fitted the new/used battery the other week it's been better, holding the correct temp but still a bit glitchy. With the brand new battery on, fingers crossed, it's perfect!! The temp and blower speed all work on auto and there seems to be more heat coming to the rear vents! 🤯🥳
13.6volts I suspect means that the BMS thinks the battery is fully charged. Either that or the battery characteristics are not compatible with the BMS. Jumping around doesn't sound good, sounds like a bad earth or a dodgy alternator.
 
13.6 wou

13.6volts I suspect means that the BMS thinks the battery is fully charged. Either that or the battery characteristics are not compatible with the BMS. Jumping around doesn't sound good, sounds like a bad earth or a dodgy alternator.
Sorry i don't mean jumping like a mad frog.. Just every so often, i think it's what I'd expect.
I did clean joints before i put it all together, there was minor corrosion in places but nothing serious
 
Sorry i don't mean jumping like a mad frog.. Just every so often, i think it's what I'd expect.
I did clean joints before i put it all together, there was minor corrosion in places but nothing serious
Have you checked the engine to chassis earth? I would put a jump lead from battery negative to the engine and see if it still jumps about. With the engine running I would never expect to see the battery voltage drop to 12 volts
 
Well interesting progress.
Battery only charges to 13.6v, , with the old battery on it went to about 14.8v.
After a while it jumps around between 12.0-13.6, i presume that's once it thinks it's full.
Now you've reset the BMS, it's 'learning' the battery, nothing to worry about - 14.8V indicates you're either in a very cold part of the country or the internal resistance of the starter battery is >5mOhms.
13.6V is a perfectly adequate system voltage (and shows a positive input of 0.17V per cell for a fully charged battery, which is considered a 'float' charge), remember that the charge control system maintains (or seeks to) the starter battery between 80-100%, you may see system voltages as low as 12.6VDC, that too is perfectly acceptable and indicates (all things being equal) that the battery is sufficiently charged and the BMS is monitoring battery health.
 
Have you checked the engine to chassis earth? I would put a jump lead from battery negative to the engine and see if it still jumps about. With the engine running I would never expect to see the battery voltage drop to 12 volts
I haven't, but it was working fine before with the old battery.
I think, not 100% sure, the bms will turn the alternator off completely at times to save engine load, so the battery will drop low keeping everything running
 
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Now you've reset the BMS, it's 'learning' the battery, nothing to worry about - 14.8V indicates you're either in a very cold part of the country or the internal resistance of the starter battery is >5mOhms.
13.6V is a perfectly adequate system voltage (and shows a positive input of 0.17V per cell for a fully charged battery, which is considered a 'float' charge), remember that the charge control system maintains (or seeks to) the starter battery between 80-100%, you may see system voltages as low as 12.6VDC, that too is perfectly acceptable and indicates (all things being equal) that the battery is sufficiently charged and the BMS is monitoring battery health.

Didn't get above freezing here all day and Kermie is further north than I am.
 
We had it during the night, nothing too scary though..but a bitter wind this morning.. hence me coming up to my office..
Not sure how far away we are Kermit, but we are on the Shropshire/Staffordshire border.. near Newport.. bbrrrrr..
Titch
 
Tried to get a dispute logged with PayPal for a refund on the FIP which I'm pretty sure is dead. PayPal says no, I have 180 days from day payment is made, but only 30 days after delivery, so I had 30 days to report the fault. By the time the fault appeared I'd missed the window and it seems Charle's year warranty is as much use as a chocolate fireguard since he won't make contact. So yay! 1,500 gone and I'm in a worse position now than I was with the original pump, at least it drove while dropping fuel everywhere. Now it just drops fuel everywhere.
 
Tried to get a dispute logged with PayPal for a refund on the FIP which I'm pretty sure is dead. PayPal says no, I have 180 days from day payment is made, but only 30 days after delivery, so I had 30 days to report the fault. By the time the fault appeared I'd missed the window and it seems Charle's year warranty is as much use as a chocolate fireguard since he won't make contact. So yay! 1,500 gone and I'm in a worse position now than I was with the original pump, at least it drove while dropping fuel everywhere. Now it just drops fuel everywhere.
Know how you feel pal. Its horrible when you get ripped off or lied to.
You probably know by now to bite the bullet and cough for a rebuilt one from a reputable specialist.
A mate got a switch pack off him which was knackered supposed to be good.
Secondhand pumps I would only buy off mark goddard or James Coleman off the p38 facebook pages. Mark is my first go to as he is usually cheaper.
 
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