What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Here's a list of codes someone had on rr.net many years ago. I would assume from the numbers, that there are many more depending on the fault ?

(2) THE HEATED FRONT SCREEN SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND.
(24) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
(26) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(28) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
(29) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR LOW SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(30) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(39) AIR CONDITIONING REQUEST CIRCUIT SHORT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(46) ASPIRATOR (IN CAR) TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(48) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(50) HEATER CORE TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(55) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALLED DURING SELF CALIBRATION.
 
pwood999 said:
Here's a list of codes someone had on rr.net many years ago. I would assume from the numbers, that there are many more depending on the fault ?

(2) THE HEATED FRONT SCREEN SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND.
(24) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
(26) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(28) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
(29) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR LOW SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(30) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
(39) AIR CONDITIONING REQUEST CIRCUIT SHORT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(46) ASPIRATOR (IN CAR) TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(48) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(50) HEATER CORE TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(55) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALLED DURING SELF CALIBRATION.
Click to expand...
Are they nanocom codes? Got nanocom I have!
 
Flossie said:
Took my rear bumper off to sort the lower tailgate rubbing on it.
One clip that clamps the plastic bumper skin to the steel bumper itself had come loose and I repositioned the others so that's all good now. Made an access hole so I can manually open the lower tailgate if it fails electrically.
I've got the leaky number one injector problem back again, thought that was fixed and it has been fine for a good while to be fair.
I seem to have 2 issues with it, leaking compression air from around the threads on the head, that's had a good looking at and two new copper washers but that leak has returned and, secondly, it looks like the nipple on the injector that takes the spill back to the fip has an issue and is weeping fuel and letting air in. Its a bugger to start so I'm using the 110 until a used but good injector arrives this week.
Although the head seat was spotlessly clean and looked fine I'm going to have that seat recut I think and another new copper washer.
Wonder if the copper washers that were recommended on a p38 facebook site are rubbish, I've used 2 of the 6 supplied so far so it's them or the injector seat or possibly the injector itself, I did have to dress off a small burr on the injector where the washer sits the second time I tried to fix it and thought I had.
Book symbol is permanently on where as only cold damp weather made that happen and it disappeared once a little warth was in the cabin. New zebra strip sorted that last year but its on permently now regardless of the weather or cabin heat. Not investigated that yet.
Click to expand...

None of my injector copper washers would come off. I suspect the new ones might not fit tightly enough around the injector.
 
Datatek said:
Possibly but other things can trigger it including the distribution flap binding and the aircon drive circuit.
Click to expand...
+1 on this. If the pressure swtich is open due to low R134, when the ambient rises & the HEVAC tries to engage the compressor it assumes the clutch is not engaging. Mine after dash out to sort the matrix & distribution motor has not had any gas for months. No book symbol, until last week when it decided it needed cool air for the interior.
 
If the copper washers are not tight on the injector / in the seat then insufficient clamping force has been applied - even with a pitted seat, the washer should be squashed sufficiently to grip the injector, new injector clamping bolts should be used and the specified torque (and in most cases, angular tightening) should be applied.
 
Graculus said:
If the copper washers are not tight on the injector / in the seat then insufficient clamping force has been applied - even with a pitted seat, the washer should be squashed sufficiently to grip the injector, new injector clamping bolts should be used and the specified torque (and in most cases, angular tightening) should be applied.
Click to expand...
New washers are super tight to get on, injectors screw in on the 38, no bolts.
 
Grrrrrr said:
None of my injector copper washers would come off. I suspect the new ones might not fit tightly enough around the injector.
Click to expand...
I'm tempted to drop the replacement injector complete with its washer into my sonic cleaner and fit it , not replace the washer.
There's nowt to bugger up dropping the lot in the SC tank is there?
 
Graculus said:
If the copper washers are not tight on the injector / in the seat then insufficient clamping force has been applied - even with a pitted seat, the washer should be squashed sufficiently to grip the injector, new injector clamping bolts should be used and the specified torque (and in most cases, angular tightening) should be applied.
Click to expand...
No clamping bolts on the P38 injectors.
 
So there must be a threaded sleeve then? same applies - correct torque, but also make sure the sleeve isn't binding on the injector and the internal & external threads are clean. Normally I'd caution against adding lubricants to the threads as that can lead to over-torquing but with something of the P38 vintage, a little light oil on the threads might help overcome 'age'.
 
481F5235-7D7E-45DC-B8DE-22FA5779E877.jpeg
My washers wouldn’t come off but injectors were out quite few times with no issues or new washers. They’re supposed to be annealed cherry red. Maybe when the engine is toasty try a retorque ?
 
Had a play with the nano on the hvac. The blend motors don't sound happy, lots of crunching clacking sounds which I can't hear with the engine running but sound bad with it not running and driving them with the nano. They all appear to do what they are supposed to though, temperature and distribution, however, I got this fault that won't clear. This morning I didn't have the book symbol and still don't but I haven't started her up yet, battery a bit low, now on charge, but I suspect it'll appear when I do tomorrow. Got to take the disabled father in law for a scan and he can't get in the 110.
I've read of someone @Datatek ?
Who has changed all three motors without removing the whole dash, I'm tempted to get the dash out though as I've been most of the way into that job fixing the matrix O rings.
20240423_135249.jpg
 
Flossie said:
Had a play with the nano on the hvac. The blend motors don't sound happy, lots of crunching clacking sounds which I can't hear with the engine running but sound bad with it not running and driving them with the nano. They all appear to do what they are supposed to though, temperature and distribution, however, I got this fault that won't clear. This morning I didn't have the book symbol and still don't but I haven't started her up yet, battery a bit low, now on charge, but I suspect it'll appear when I do tomorrow. Got to take the disabled father in law for a scan and he can't get in the 110.
I've read of someone @Datatek ?
Who has changed all three motors without removing the whole dash, I'm tempted to get the dash out though as I've been most of the way into that job fixing the matrix O rings.View attachment 315543
Click to expand...
Sometimes the solder inside the blend motor housing on the circuit board can crack causing an intermittent fault, also as I found out recently the blend motor driver inside the hevac can give up as well😳
 
Flossie said:
Had a play with the nano on the hvac. The blend motors don't sound happy, lots of crunching clacking sounds which I can't hear with the engine running but sound bad with it not running and driving them with the nano. They all appear to do what they are supposed to though, temperature and distribution, however, I got this fault that won't clear. This morning I didn't have the book symbol and still don't but I haven't started her up yet, battery a bit low, now on charge, but I suspect it'll appear when I do tomorrow. Got to take the disabled father in law for a scan and he can't get in the 110.
I've read of someone @Datatek ?
Who has changed all three motors without removing the whole dash, I'm tempted to get the dash out though as I've been most of the way into that job fixing the matrix O rings.View attachment 315543
Click to expand...
Yes I have changed all 3 blend motors without removing the dash, they came out of the RHD scrapper and went into the LHD project car. Access is harder IMO on the LHD.
 
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